My brakes was changed they were bled and my brake pedal still is feels spongy could it be my resuvior cap/gasket or brake vacuum, or master cylinder what shoul i check first and what would be the most comon thing thats wrong should i bled my master cylinder also i had to change my wheel cylinders
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Re: i hear air coming out of resuvior cap
I would first bleed the brakes again. The easiest way to do that is with two people. Buy a couple of bottles of dot3 brake fluid. One at a time unscrew the bleeder valves on each of the wheels. (Only unscrew them only a quarter of a full turn). Have a person push the brake pedal and hold it until you can close the valve. (1. Put a tube over the valve or you will get wet! 2. fluid should come out, if it doesn't turn the valve a little more until it does). After you close the valve have them release the pedal. Repeat the process on that wheel until there are no bubbles in the fluid. Do this on each wheel. ! It is very important that you keep the master cylinder reservoir full or more air will get into the line. If that doesn't help you problem. I'd look at changing the master cylinder. ( The bleeder valves look like little nipples, and are usually located very close to the brake lines on each wheel.
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If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.
For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.
The brake system was not bled properly, so you still have air in the lines. The air compresses when you press the brake pedal, making it feel spongy. With no air in the system, the brake fluid does not compress, giving a firm feel.
1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.
4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.
5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.
6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.
7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.
8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.
9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.
10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.
2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.
3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).
4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.
5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.
NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.
6. Turn on the service filling machine.
7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).
8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.
9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.
10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.
11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.
12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.
13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.
14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.
15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.
Try opening the bleeders and don't pump the pedal,just let gravity flow out the fluid,(master cyl.cap off)keeps the air from being churned into foam. Also try appling the E-brake and see if the pedal feels better,if it does it's just the rear being out of adjustment
loosen of the hand-brake adjustment and press the brake pedal a few times to self adjust the rear brakes. Re-tighten the handbrake adj last. Front brake sounds like a seized caliper,If possible remove caliper and clean and lubricate the piston. This may work but replacement caliper may be the only other solution.Make sure the caliper slides are also clean and lubricated and the brake pads are in good order.(TRY THIS FIRST) Also new brake shoes can make the pedal feel spongy for a couple of hundred miles until they have been run in.
So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.