Question about 1998 Ford Windstar

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98 windstar, can't pass emissions

Its a 3.8 GL, I failed emissions, first replaced the trans vehicle speed sensor, major problem, solved, had it tuned up, plugs, wires, etc. Ran a bit rough, almost like it was running on 5 cylinders but not too bad, light came back on after about 35 miles driving, brought it back. Said he replaced the idle speed sensor and some valve thing. Light came back on after about 20 miles.
I am wondering if a bad battery, perhaps a bad plug or egr sensor could be tripping the codes. This has already cost me close to $1000 and I can't afford more? I would really appreciate any ideas, this is the best vehicle I have ever owned and really don't want to, nor can I afford another. BTW, it has 240,000 miles on it and believe me, it could easily go another 100,000.

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  • ccaruso57 Dec 22, 2008

    Same guy, ran better before tune-up, was also better on gas. Showed too high and too low on test.

  • ccaruso57 Dec 23, 2008

    no compression test was done, the idle speed sensor and egr control codes came up but both were replaced.

  • Tha Jeeper May 11, 2010

    Did they tell you WHY you failed emissions? What particular reasons? Some states, ANY engine trouble code at time of test - even simple minor or however rare and intermittent- is a failure AND if your check engine light - bulb - is burned, is also a failure.

  • kevin carpenter May 11, 2010

    what code is being set and has a commpession test been ran by the milage that is being stated iwould like to know the compession of the mtr befor going any fruther

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 11, 2010

    Same guy doing emissions as repairs? Ran rough after tune-up, was it worse than before tune-up?

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Wow, sounds like your mechanic screwed up. Ran rougher after the tune up is a bad sign. Also, you don't just replace sensors without finding out why they fail. For instance, and EGR code could be a sensor, or it could be the control solenoid, or it could be the EGR valve. Which was it, and what did the mechanic do to determine which it was? I'm willing to bet he threw a part at it based on a code instead of using the code as a starting point to correctly diagnosing the problem. Good luck with that guy. Switch mechanics to a dealer. I know from experience at a Ford dealer for 10 years, that replacing the rear plugs on that car is a pain in the **** and can easily be screwed up.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

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