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Re: 2002 ford ranger contol valve on 2.3 L engine
I would do this first let the vech warm up, is the vech warming up ? go to your hoses at the control valve are the hoses getting warm our is only one getting warm , if only one is getting warm go trun your heat on if both hose get warm then you have it installed correctly. if niether hose gets warm you may have a themostat problem . i hope this helps you let me know kdc744
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ok in the engine compartment look at the radiator with the engine cold NOT ON" squeeze the hose with your fingers and feel if hose is crunchy or brittle if is possible a block could have happen locations /points at the vacuum heater valve gate on the heater hoses or a clogged up lower heater hose get a water hose and back flush the heater's hoses normal travel of water is from bottom to top so put the water hose to the tophose and flush backward and try to move the heater valve by finger and see if you get flow (mind you with hoses of the radiator DONT CRANK YOUR ENGINE)
is the check engine light on is so have code read 1st-second try cleaning the throttle body where air goes into the engine where the rubber hose attaches clean with a throttle cleaner wipe cleaner out i say this due to the idle air control motor may be dirty,and last you may have a faulty egr valve
When the engine is idling, listen very carefully to with the hood open for something that sounds like rushing air. There might be a vacuum leak on the engine (all you need to do is make sure the vacuum hose is tight). This should be a rubber hose that plugs onto a hose barb or into a small hole in the engine. There is a piece call the pcv valve that you probably need to replace if you don't hear any air leaks.
check if both heater hoses going into firewall are hot.. if only one is hot then your heater core is stopped up..you can take both lines loose and take a water hose and back flush,,, force hose on one inlet of heater core for a minute and then the other.. keep going to you get a good flow...make sure heater valve is open, not just valve position take loose and confirm clear..last make sure your thermostat is not stuck open keeping engine from comming up to temperature
The water is from the thermostat housing, fairly common leak. The ticking maybe from the timing chain cassette. You may have already had the cam timing slip (the cam gears are not keyed, they are held in place by torque alone. The oil gauge sounds like an electrical problem (either sender or sender wiring).
It could only be pressure from the crankcase which would mean you have excessive blowby from the combustion chamber getting past the piston rings.
You should be able to feel this pressure when you disconnect the hose from the pcv valve. Or the pcv valve is not letting the blowby to get sucked into the engine to get re-burned.
I know it attaches to a small hose and the body of the valve inserts into the head. Mine is on the right rear in a 2000 Explorer Sport. The guy at Autozone always is happy to help me when I ask...too short to get over the fender if I don't have a step or block to stand on. Not a very expensive part.