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Astra ecu i have 2001 astra 1.6 has a misfiring problem and after alot of searching found it to be the ecu ,so i bought a second hand one with the ignition key the car won t start i know i need the chip from the key is there something else i need to get the car to start

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As far as I know you need to replace the ECU, Immobilizer and the key switch as they are all programmed to talk to one another. You will need to re-program the replacement ECU.

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

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Astra 1,6 16v 1998 drinking fuel

Posted on May 15, 2009


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My 01 ts Astra is misfiring on a cylinder after changing coil pack, plugs, air and oil filter and cleaning throttle body. Still a misfire

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work.
I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from

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I have 2007 Opel Astra 1.6 Essentia. It has a miss on low revs. I have replaced The EGR valve as well as crankshaft sensor but to no avail. do you have the answer?

sure lots, you have misfire. when, say EXACTLY.
when does it and when does it not?
guessing is expensive?
misfires in gear or. parked in park or neutral,
or only driving?
why not do the 60,000 mile tune, why not?
spark plugs , that is top of list. not crank shaft sensors.
1: tune it up. spark parts and filters.
2: keyon, CEL glowing , check engine lamp ? good.
3: start car is it glowing now running, yes, that means SCAN it.
4: best practice would be to drive with scan tool connected OBD2.'
and watch to see if you get P030x misfire codes.
The ECU would have told you the CKP crank shaft sensor is bad or good. the ECU does that on all cars, no need to guess and go broke.
if very intermittent it shows up in OBD2 PENDINGS.
the ecu will report 1 in 10 ckp pulses, missing,(sensitive it is this monitor.

1: weak compression on 1 or more cylinders.
2: bad spark, (tuneup time and scan it)
3:bad fueling, scan it. see it way off. (can be vacuum leaks)
4: coolant found in the combustion chamber, spark tips look UGLY. nasty . and repeats. with new plug. not looking is FAIL time.
5: EGR closed. at idle, so if misfire is at idle? , bam.
running the EGR is open, so its not egr, if running ,moving are you?

the above order saves time, and cash.
fuel can burn right with bad compression or spark so fueling is dead last.

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1 Answer

My astra 1.8 sxi is missing an won't go past 3000 revs

what is an astra, what year?
Holden Astra in Australia and New Zealand ????
what year, its not a 1951 like your double post implies.
MISFIRE< is caused by 50 things.
why no scan it, does the scan tool show 1 cylinder misfiring or all ,
this fact is key to Diagnosis.

misfire has only a few reasons in physics.
(bad weak compression, or water incursion)
bad spark
bad injection. (or lack of air but at 3000 there is plenty)
just 3 things,
ever heard of SCAN tool or the CEL lamp.
too bad year is not stated. as in 2001 your country uses OBD2.
that can infact tell you which cylinder is misfiring.

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Fabia 1.4 MPI ECU problem?

I really doubt that the problem is the PCM (ECU), that is the least likely thing that would cause these codes. The causes will take a factory manual and good test equipment that can read live mainstream engine and sensor data.

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I replace the engine on astra 2001 and no start no power on the spark plugs and i cant read the ecu with tester

you need to have the original ecu and sensor on the engine. you have replaced. if you have changed the ecu put the original one back on as it is paired to the car and only your car. if you want to change the ecu you need to change every box, ecu. immobiliser . alarm. ignition. or you need the pass code for the car so you dont need to do this but this can cost alot.

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Renault Megane Scenic 2002

I recently bought a second hand 54 reg Scenic and when I used the key card to lock the car it emitted a high pitched noise/sound/whistle. While looking for the source of the sound I leant on the bonnet. I found that every time I put pressure on a certain point on the bonnet the noise stopped, but when I took my hand off it started again. I guessed it must be some kind of contact breaker, so opened the bonnet and took a look. I spotted two contacts on the underside of the bonnet and guessed they were being held too far from the main body, on the edge on the opening I found two round rubber adjustable dampers (presumably to stop the bonnet banging when closed) I screwed them both in slightly and it cured the problem.
It's worth checking this before taking the car to the garage. I guess the high pitched noise is to warn you that something isn't closing properly.

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