I had the same problem on my 1997 F-150. It was an Aftermarket Alarm. (Varmit) The problem is that the Mercury switch is failing inside the alarm box, underdash. Lightning will set it off. The Fix; Take the truck to an any aftermarket alarm seller and replace only "THE BOX". No other parts need replacement. Don't let them sell you anything else. Should be approx. $100.00 at the most.
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First use a battery charger to charge the battery, instead of a jump start. Second, with a complete dead battery you may want to pull the connection for the horn under the hood till the battery is completely charged.
the clutch is located between the engine and transmission. Therefore
you must separate the engine from the transmission to gain access to the
This is much more difficult on a front wheel drive vehicle.
On most front wheel drive vehicles the easiest way to this is to remove
the engine and transmission as a unit. However on a front wheel drive
vehicle the engine and transmission come out from the bottom. You
disconnect all of the hoses, wiring, linkage, etc just like on a rear
wheel drive vehicle. You disconnect the suspension and steering. You
disconnect the front "K" member (front sub frame). Then if you have
everything disconnected properly you lift the body off of the drive
train. You can then separate the engine from the transmission and
service the clutch. You reverse your steps to reinstall the engine.
As you can see this is much more involved than accessing the clutch on a
rear wheel drive truck where the transmission can be removed without
removing the engine.
There are a few front wheel drive GM vehicles I have seen where the "K"
member can be removed in pieces. On these vehicles you only remove half
of the "K" member and you can remove the transmission without removing
the engine. Not sure if this is possible on a Ford.
There can be many things causing this. In my experience a bad battery can short while the vehicle is parked. Its easy to have tested and Autozone or Oreillys will test your whole vehicle free.
Next possibility would be dirty Battery cables or loose battery connections to the Ground wire. Of course, some vehicles have additional triggers for Glass breakage and motion. Sometimes on cars with Autoload leveling, the Air pump will work to level the car and the Alarm will sense the current draw and vibration and go off.
These Alarms are not foolproof. You have a "Panic" button on your remote. If another person has a device casting this signal your Alarm will pick it up and activate. Your Dealer may have testing equipment for your system to correct the sensitivity of the unit. I hope it is simply a bad battery and your problem will go away with a new one.
if its the remote then it needs to be swapped out. it could be the alarm module if the remote is not the thing that malfunctioning. i would get the alarm reprogrammed by the dealer and the whole module and go from there.
so in order, 1. reprogram whole system 2.replace remote 3.replace module
The simple answer is, bolted to the bottom of the engine. Ford and Lincoln vehicle generally have the cross member right under the engine, so the oil pan is obscured by it. Many oil pans on rear wheel drive Ford products have 2 oil sumps or wells, 1 near the front just behind the belt pulleys, and the other just behind the cross member, this one also has the oil drain plug for oil changes. Not sure why you are looking for the oil pan, so I hope this helps.
You have a bad or sticking door adjar switch. The switch is located in the latch assembley inside the door. Most of the time you can take some WD40 and spray it into the latch,put a good amount on it,then open and close the door several times.
if it has the rear bumper collision cut off switch check that. it may be intermittent. short it out or open which ever it needs. find where it leads to engine /computer as it may be there too. check the ignition switch and the wiring firewall distribution box. the hard part is you are likely loosing ground somewhere. does it have vehicle entry alarm if so see about bypassing.