I was driving my 89 honda accord when i hit a speed bump and heard something fall off. i rolled up to the stop light (its a stick shift and i had it in neutral) and when i tried to drive away i had no power to the wheels. thankfully someone helped me push the car into a local supermarket parking lot and when i jacked up the car i noticed the driveshaft was completely out of the inner CV joint just hangin there. long story short i got the car home and began working on it. i removed the dampener fork and lower ball joint and pullled the wheel away and slid the axle back into the CV joint. i put everything back together but when i went to drive it i had a loud banging sound when i would engage the engine and when i went to turn it felt like the shaft was going to fall back out. so i took it back apart and noticed that a piece of metal had chipped away from the inner CV joint. how do i replace this joint? i notice its coming right out of the transmission so is this something i can do my self or take to a shop?
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Does it make the noise (or does the noise get louder) when you're cornering? And is it worse when you turn in one direction than it is when you turn the opposite direction? If so it sounds to me like one or both of your constant velocity (CV) joints is/are worn.
CV joints are front wheel drive's equivalent to U joints, you'll find one in each half-shaft (that connects the transaxle to each of the front wheels.) CV joints are protected from road dirt by rubberized boots; any damage to a boot is often followed by premature failure of the joint.
Your tire shop or general mechanic should be able to easily tell you if this is the problem. Luckily there isn't a great deal of danger associated with CV joint failure (as opposed to U joint failure on a rear-wheel drive car, which has potential to be extremely dangerous) but you should still get it checked out soon, to make sure there's nothing else going on, if no other reason.
CAUTION: It is advisable to get this job done by a qualified technician otherwise you will take the consequences.
Do the following job at your own risk.
- Place the car on a level floor.
- Pull up the hand brake.
- Block the rear wheels with wheel stoppers, wooden blocks or bricks.
- Call a friend or relative to depress the foot brake, turn the steering wheel little towards left side and put the car in 4th gear.
- Loosen the axle nut force fully (large one in the center of wheel) with a socket and double extension rod.
- Loosen the four wheel nuts.
- Lift up the front left wheel with Jack, place a support under the strong chassis and remove the jack.
- Remove all the wheel nuts and remove the front left wheel.
- Place a container or tray under the inner CV joint to preserve the transmission oil which will come out unavoidably during the axle removal.
- Remove the lower ball joint nut.
- Remove the tie rod end.
- You don't have to remove the hub completely but to release it a little.
- Pull the hub out by pressing the CV joint in and take the outer end of the CV joint out of the hub.
- Place a strong long chisel like lever between the inner CV joint cup and the transmission and push the cup away from the transmission to take the lock out of its host.
Sounds like the CV joint. Maybe you just don't hear it when you are on the road turning. It would be a constant clicking sound, not just a single click-the steel balls inside the cage of the joint wear and get too loose and make that clicking as turning or acceleration puts stress on the joint. The fix is to replace the joint, so the axle shaft has to be removed from car. FYI, parts stores sell remanufactured axles complete with both inspected and re-booted joints on each end, and ready to install. The cost is not too expensive-cheaper than one new CV joint costs.
Put the car in park take off the emergency brake and push the car forward and back looking for a difference in movement of the CV joints where the Axle mates to the CV. I.e.... CV joint travels a short distance before you see any axle movement. Worn CV joint knuckles will cause all kinds of clunking.
If there is no movement between the CV joint and axle when you push the car fwd or back you already know the problem is internal to the transmission.
It's probably your cv (constant velocity) joint. Jack up the honda and put it on safety stands, look at the area behind the center of both front wheels, there is a rubber boot. This boot protects the cv joint from dirt, road grime, water, salt, etc. If you see splits in it or grease on the boot, it has deteriorated, and is letting contaniments in. The damage has already been done if it makes a rattling noise going around corners at slow speed. I changed both cv joints (purchased rebuilt axles for $49 each) in my 92, but it is a big job labor wise. There's a lot to take apart to remove the axles.
inner joints a plunging joints have problems acceleration jolts from a dead stop... the outer rezzepa joint clicks usually when turning thats the balls falling out trunion..... not usually clunking ... possible wheel bearings they are pressed in on front wheel drives... or even a tranny mount maybe ...it almost sounds like somethings loose ...its hard to diagnos online..srry i need more info about the symptoms...