Question about 2004 Ford F350

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Wont start my o4 f350 6.o wont start I turn the key and it just clicks, but if i get a boost it will start. the battery's are fully charged and the altenater is only a year old. I keep it pluged in for it is -30 below here. once it is boosted and running it works great all day but in the morning same problem

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  • custerd8t Dec 28, 2008

    Mike258, I had one weak batterie that was drawing the other down in the cold. it load tested at 9 volt's so i took the batteries out of my 95 cummins and it starts great. I also tried sprucing them up with water and vineger but they wont hold a charge they are also 5 years old so i belive they are just worn out. Thank you kindley for your help

  • Anonymous Jan 10, 2009

    I parked my f350 one afternoon, the next day i came out to start it and would not start. Is it possible that i need new glow plugs or solanoid for fuel system?

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Hi Custerd8t,

I'm sure you checked the terminals were clean and tight.
From your description, the symptoms still point to the battery(s).
Extreme temperatures can have a negative effect on them.

Question: Do you have a dual battery setup? You mentioned Batteries.

While a battery may read +12VDC on a volt meter, it's ability to deliver enough Cold Cranking Amps to turn the engine has been reduced. This is sometimes referred to as a 'Surface Charge'. It has the voltage of a fully charged battery, but not the performance of one.

But no one likes guessing games. Here's how to either confirm or rule out the battery as a problem.
It's called 'Load Test'. It tests the voltage under a simulated load, like turning the engine.

Most battery or auto parts stores will do the test for you for free.
Even though it works during the day after you get it jumped, the Load Test would still read as 'marginal' rather than 'good' if there is a problem.

At the same time, have them test the voltage while the engine is running to check the alternators charging capacity.

If the battery fails the load test, the acid level may be low. I don't know the type you have. If it's not the sealed type, it may be fixable. Otherwise, replacement would be necessary.

At this point I've stacked up three or four 'If's'. Let's see what the Load Test says. Get back to me with the results, we can proceed from there.

Good luck,
Mike

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

  • Justin Case
    Justin Case Jan 05, 2009

    I wanted to thank you for the rating.

    I've got a tip for you.
    This is a way to build a battery isolator using a Ford type solenoid.


    • When the vehicle is running (IGN on), the solenoid is on allowing both batteries to charge.

    • When the ignition is off, the solenoid is off isolating the batteries. This prevents a bad battery from sucking the life out of a good one.

    • Once installed, you never need to worry about it. It's automatic.

    • The over ride is in case the main battery is weak and needs a jump from the aux battery.
    I rigged this type of config because it was cheaper (a LOT Cheaper) than those big epoxy filled blue heat sinks they call Battery Isolators in auto parts stores.

    Those same isolators lose a volt to a volt and a half in a charge circuit so the battery takes forever to recharge, if at all. They also burn out pretty quickly.

    They don't completely isolate, they impede.
    A solenoid isolates completely.

    I hope you find this useful
    Mike


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Sounds like you need to have your alenator checked just to make sure its charging.

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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