I just replaced the left side head do i need to adjust the timing or can i just put it back the same way i took it off

The firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6. But on the coil they should be in this order: 1-2-3 on back row, and 5-6-4 on front row. Standing from in front of car facing engine compartment, going from passengers side to drivers side. Hope that makes sense.
Kip. Martin, service manager at a Ford dealership.

Valve Lash (Clearance) Adjustment

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These engines are equipped with hydraulic valve lifters. No valve clearance adjustments are necessary.Here's a link to help.

SOUND LIKE COOLANT FANS HAS A FAULTY THERMO SWITCH LOCATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE RADIATOR ON LEFT HAND SIDE.CHECK THE FUSES 8 IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND CHECK FUSE 16 IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX.WHEN ENGINE OVERHEATING IF BOTH COOLING FANS WORKING.OVERHEATING PROBLEM COULD BE BLOWN HEAD GASKET.CHECK ENGINE OIL LOOKS LIKE MILK HEAD GASKET LEAKING.SEE WHEN YOU DRIVING LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS THE COOLING FANS SUPPOSE TO BE RUNNING.IF THEY NOT RUNNING THAT IS YOUR OVER HEATING PROBLEM.

The band adjustment in not a torque adjustment. Drop the main pan on the transmission. You will see the valve body with filter on it. At the rear drivers side you will see a round dome piece with a flat flange with four bolts in it. Remove the bolts and take this cover off. Now you will see a round piston with an adjustment screw in it. Break the jam nut loose and tighten the allen bolt in until tight. Back off five complete turns and reset jam nut. When you have the pan off, take note of how much clutch material is in it. If you have a lot it could be time to replace the clutches. Also it is a good idea to put in a new filter if you are in there. Good luck

Project: Replace dashlight behind odometer (PRNDL) light. 2001 Ford Escape.

Time: 10 to 30 min.
Tools: Nut Driver 7mm or (small 7mm socket, socket wrench and small extension)
Cost: $1.50 to $4.00 (cost varies due to location - or so I was told, mine was $4.00)
Screws to remove: only 6 on the 2001, all the same head size, thread size and length)


1. Remove two 7mm hex screws on display panel cover (top, underneath)

2. Put on parking brake, engage key (do not start), move PRNDL lever to L to get out of way.

3. Pull the bottom part of display cover straight toward you (there are 2 clips, one on either side of the steering wheel behind the display assembly cover that will snap free - takes a little force - Do one side at a time) Remove and set aside. This reveals the four display unit screws.

4. Remove the four 7mm screws on the actual display panel. (fyi: all screws in this project are the same head size, thread size, and length)

5. Tilt top of display panel toward you and remove the three top connectors (they come out easily and are in a cable harness so you can't put them back wrong) You will need to squeeze the middle gently, unlocking connector and pull)

6. Pull out display - which includes "glass" covering - this never gets removed! (adjust steering wheel to lowest position if needed)

7. On the rear of the panel you will see several (little grey) knobs. Find the one right behind the odometer and using a pliers, twist counter clockwise 1/4 turn and remove. The little light bulb is encased in these little knobs and is included as a one-piece replacement for the $1.50 to $4 bucks.

8. Replace bulb assembly by inserting the bulb and turning clockwise 1/4 turn.

9. Assemble following reverse instruction of above.

* This all sounds a lot more complex than it actually is. These steps each only take a minute or so. The most difficult part for me was pulling out the display assembly cover. Took me a few minutes to figure out that there were clips on either side of the base of the display cover and what pressure was needed to pull them free. (it does take a little effort at the base of the display to pull free)

All in all this took me about 15 minutes to remove and about 10 minutes to replace, but I had to find socket size, snap locations of cover, etc etc....

Please feel free to cut and paste this article to any other boards with the same question. I hate to see people getting "ripped off" for a simple 4 dollar job anyone can do.

looking at the front of the engine with cylinder heads on the left and right, the left side is 1-2-3-4 front to back and the right side is 5-6-7-8, if 8 cyl and 1-2-3, 4-5-6 for a 6 cyl

This is a how-to from VWVortex.com

You WILL need the following,
10MM wrench
13MM wrench and socket or another wrench.
a eyeglasses phillips head screwdriver. (very small)
a regular size phillips head screwdriver
new ignition switch
vice grips (may not need them)
Instructions.
1. lock the steering wheel, and make note where it was just incase.
2. disconnect the battery with 10mm wrench.
3. remove the plastic around/behind the steering wheel by the two screws underneath using a phillips head screw driver.
4. now go under the dash, and remove the plastic peices covering up the steering wheel axel. and unscrew the bolt using a 13MM wrench&socket. Its a "U" joint.
5. Unplug everything behind the wheel including the ignition and the airbag.
6. using a vice grip, or your fingers if it is loose, to unscrew a gold bolt on the left side of the steering wheel column, its right behind the steering wheel on left underside.
7. Gently pull out the steering wheel, and the whole thing, including the axel, and steering wheel will comeout, be careful the end of it is greasy.
8. now with a small screwdriver (phillips), eyeglasses size is what i used, remove the screw where the ignition switch is, its a pretty long screw so it may take some time and it the switch wont come out until its fully unscrewed.
9. replace everything opposite of how it was took out.
Note- when your putting the steering wheel axel back, be sure to put back the large spring and align the axel correctly.

throttle position sensor

ok to adjust the shoes first obviously have the shoes set up with springs and everthing ready to go ,,then youl see the straight roundish threaded bar running in the middle from shoe to shoe and attached a round piece which can move using a flat head,,but you need to use another flat head to pinch back the little arm thats connected to the piece your adjusting ,,thats just ther to prevent the shoe from moving itself,,youl no when you look what i mean... hope this helps,,,

Timing belt or drive belts??