Car stalls when I stop. Someone told me it could be the kick down solenoid controlling the torque converter.. Dropped the pan, and filter. Where could it be located? Have new solenoid in hand. Any ideas would be helpful. No $$$$ to take it to a shop. Just got laid off. I guess it is the corporate way of saying Merry Christmas. Best wishes to all, John
Not to argue the previous comment but it's MUCH more likely to be the solenoid than the actual torque converter -if- it's a transmission related problem. If it's simply a matter of the car stalling when you come to a stop, there are MANY things that can cause this. If the car starts right up but won't go into gear, then it's the solenoid but if it's just a matter of stalling but then drives fine, other things to check would be ignition coil packs, plugs/wires, emmission system, fuel pump/pressure, etc., etc..
Now if the car starts but won't go back into gear (stalls right away) please know that problems with the lock up solenoids (or TCC solenoid) are VERY common with a number of 90's era Chevy's such as Corsicas, Berretas, Cavaliers, etc.. While there are other things (including the torque converter) that can cause this problem, including the ECM and/or wiring problems, the TCC solenoid is the most logical place to start.
Depending on the vehicle, it should be located under an access plate on the side of the trans. Raise the driver side front of the vehicle, remove the front driver's side tire and remove the wheel well access. As you are looking at the end of the trans, you should see the access cover. Once you remove this cover you should see the solenoid (please note you will need high temp "form a gasket" to reinstall the cover!).
There is a great deal of info on this both on the internet and in repair manuals. Good luck!
When car is in drive it feels like its going to shut off and it feels like the car has no pressure or no power like its going to turn off does anyone know what could it be??? It's a 2001 PLYMOUTH NEON Automatic
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Re: Torque converter lockup
It`s located to the right in the front of the car pop hood and look directley down below the top radiator hose you will see the two training lines and if you follow them down still in front you will see a electric plug very close to the ends of the transmission lines. Mines kind of a pale blue color with a black plastic plug in connector, I`m having the same problem as you are with it stalling out mine won`t even go into drive or reverse without stalling.
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If that happens after you drove at speeds over 60km/h, there is a good chance that the lock up torque converter of your transmission does not disengage; to test that, drive the car at normal highway speed for a little while and put the gear selector in NEUTRAL before you stop. If the engine keeps on running, there's your problem
CODE PO744 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE FAULT. POSSIBLE CAUSE FAULTY TCC SOLENOID.CHECK TCC SOLENOID WIRING FOR DAMAGE.OR YOU COULD HAVE FAULTY TCM OR ECM. IF THE TCC SOLENOID IS FAULTY YOUR ENGINE WILL STALL OUT AT A RED LIGHT OR STOP SIGN.YOUR ENGINE WILL STALL OUT AT EVERY STOP THAT WOULD BE SIGN FAULTY TCC SOLENOID.IF ENGINE DONT STALL OUT THE TCC SOLENOID COULD COULD BE STUCK OPEN, IF YOUR TORQUE CONVERTER FAULTY IT WILL CAUSE PREMATURE LOCKUP STALLING OUT THE ENGINE.
It could be caused by a throttle body issue or an EGR valve problem, but it sounds more like your transmission torque converter clutch may be locking up. This can be cause several reasons. I'll list the most common. First check your transmission fluid. If its low it can cause the torque converter to lock up at low speeds. Next, if the transmission is a 545RFE the problem could be caused by the trans filter leaking at the seal. You will need to drop the trans pan and inspect the seal. There is a round filter and a flat one. The seal is up in the transmission where the flat filter plugs into the transmission. A new filter from Dodge will come with a new seal. These are the two most common causes of torque converter lockup. Try and slip it into neutral when you come to a stop and see if it dies. May be more of an indication of a torque converter lockup condition if it does.
I would say torque converter but there are a few thing that control a torque converter the torque on off solenoid switch the valve body in the bottom of the pan where the filter is. The fourth gear shift accumulator. I would start with changing the fluid and filter first and get the system flushed first.
The torque converter clutch lockup may not be disengaging. It is most likely to need a new torque converter. Possibly the torque converter clutch solenoid. For fuel economy there is a computer controlled lockup around 30 mph that is supposed to unlock when slowing to a stop. The feeling is similar to forgetting to depress the clutch on a manual when coming to a stop or trying to start in third gear. If you rev the engine, foot off brake and put in gear and quickly start moving it will be like popping the clutch or riding a bronco until you get up to speed. It will buck and stall again when you slow down. Not something to try unless you have a clear path ahead or you will crash.
This sounds like a problem with the torque converter lockup system. Usually the torque converter lockup solenoid is at fault in your condition. This solenoid usually locks up the torque convertor (which acts like a clutch in an automatic transmission) when you are driving at a certain speed, and unlocks it when you press the brake, and/or come to a stop. When a torque converter stays locked up, and you stop the vehicle, it acts like a vehicle with a manual transmission, if you bring the vehicle to a complete stop without applying the clutch pedal, the brakes stall the engine. Basically, if the torque converter can't unlock, even when you come to a stop, the engine is still locked to the transmission, and even when you apply the brakes, the torque converter doesn't slip and freewheel like it should, but instead stalls the engine.
Probably a bad torque converter lock up solenoid...
Try starting it in neutral, and putting it in drive without your foot on the brake (I know the car will take off in quite a hurry if it doesn't stall but it's an easy way to check for this)
If it doesn't stall, apply the brakes, and if it stalls then, it definitely is a bad lockup.
I don't know if you're familiar with the torque converter function/operation, but where it is a fluid (liquid) and not solid coupling with the engine, lockup is used at certain road speeds/engine RPMs to get rid of the power loss that always occurs between the pump and the turbine of the torque converter. It mechanically (through transmission oil pressure) locks both parts of the converter together so it then acts like the engine crankshaft is bolted right to the input shaft of the automatic transmission.
But, as you might imagine, this system has to unlock the converter when you apply the brakes for the same reason applying brakes without the clutch on a manual transmission stalls the engine.
Bad lockup solenoid will cause this to happen... The converter stays in lockup and as soon as you try to stop the vehicle, you also stop (stall) the engine.
It also might be something else but I'd say I'm about 90% sure on this one.
he diff between a lockup vs non-lockup torque converter is the lockup
simply locks the torque converter to the transmission direct
electrically so there is no slippage in high gear. And there is no
advantage to using a 2300 rpm stall converter if you are running a
basically stock cam. However if you insist on this high stall speed
torque converter you'll be able to lay down some impressive black marks
froma standing start! One final note...unless you change your rear end
gears your RPM's at a given speed remain the same. All the 2300 rpm
does is your motor will rev a bit more before you start moving