1995 Suburban Electrical: Battery is being drained.
The new battery was draining & the vehicle would not start. After jumping it a few times I then noticed that the dash electrical gauge showed sporadiac readings from 10 to 14. I replaced the alternator, after replacement the gauge continues to read the same.
The only after market addition is a power brake as the previous owner hauled a popup camper.
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Re: 1995 Suburban Electrical: Battery is being drained.
The alternator is usually the culprit when nothing else has been modified. However yo mentioned changing it. (actually the regulator inside the alternator usually fails and drains the bat when the engine is off) However there is a very common issue with mid 90's gm trucks, the brake switched go bad and cause the brake lights to stay on. Try lightly touching the brake pedal and see the lights go off after slowly releasing it. the fix is a new switch that fairly easy to replace . These are mounted on the brake pedal arm just above your foot.
Aside from these two issues, you will need to trace the problem to its source by taking items out of service one at a time by removing fuses. not that the engine computer and the radio will always draw power at start up and a tiny clock current thereafter. But there should not be anything else. The voltage guage is not very accurate in the dash. Use a volt meter to watch voltages unplug fuses until the voltage goes up. without the vehicle running, voltage should be between 11 and 12 volts on a charged battery.
And finally, check the grounding. There should be a ground strap between the engine and vehical body in addition to the battery cable. If this is broken or missing it will cause errant readings of voltage in the dash.
I hope at least one of these tips works out for you.
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You may need a shop to look at it, or get a used shop manual from Ebay to get the necessary wiring diagrams. The problems could be related, such as the key switch or the main wiring harness. You say the dome light fuse is draining the battery, is one of the interior lights staying on ?
your battery is being drained ,, check the plug in for the towing light hook up , something is shorted across ,, clean and tighten all connections to the battery ,, once the vehicle is running,, check the posts with a meter, you should get a reading of 13.5-14.5 volts, if not your alternator isn't doing its job
Do you have an aftermarket alarm or stereo installed in the car? Often times incorrectly wired aftermarket electronics will have too high a residual current draw and will prematurely drain a battery. Unfortunately, sometimes correctly wired in aftermarket electronics will also do this.
Also, if you simply don't drive the car much and only take short trips when you do drive it will prematurely drain a battery. Actually, it's not so much that it prematurely drains the battery, but rather the battery doesn't have enough time to recharge itself after the starting load.
If the car is stock and is regularly driven, then it is likely a wiring issue somewhere or an interior light is being left on. Some cars have lights in the engine bay that are supposed to shut on when you pop the hood. In short, any sort of residual draw on the electrical system can, over time, kill a battery prematurely.
Also, if you live in a cold climate this will also effect the starting power of the battery. CCA on a battery means Cold Cranking Amps. The more CCA a battery has the more starting power it has when cold. If you don't drive the car much a deep cycle battery MAY potentially also help.
Several mechanics have looked at it, but has any automotive electricians......
what you have (sounds like) is a current drain.....what you need to do is disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and place a mutimeter in parallel,...(one lead on negative post on battery, and one lead on negative lead)...and set to current reading...it should be 0.05 amps or less...it will jump high first but will settle down.....if it is higher than this amount after a minute, something is causing a drain...
Now I have found that it could be something as a glovebox light not turning off when you close the glovebox, or interior somewhere....or it could actually be the alarm after all......
if you do find a drain, start pulling fuses to determine what might be causing it, if you pull a fuse out and the current goes from 1.2A, down to 0.05A, then you know which circuit could be at fault......
Hi, there will be diodes in the generator that are letting the power from the battery drain away through the parked times when not in use. to prove it charge the battery- then disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, connect 24 hours later and see if the battery as kept it charge, if so - fit new alternator, good luck.
The alternator test will likely indicate a charging problem from the alternator that is not keeping the battery charged up.
Regardless of the alternator test, it would be best to do an electrical draw test to determine whether there is an excess drain on the battery. This can be done with an ammeter between the positive terminal and the positive battery post. This test is done with key off, all accessories off, no lights on, etc. There will be a small draw on the battery in all newer vehicles, but it should be in the order of up to 50 milliamps. If you are getting more than 200 milliamps of current draw then there is a problem with an electrical system that will drain the battery over a period of days or weeks. Once you know this is true, the electrical systems can be methodically tested.