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Re: 1999 Ford E-250 Econoline Spindle/Knuckle
There is not necessarily a torque spec on that nut. Well, there is but I don't know of anyone that actually uses it. Typically there is a cotter key that goes in to hold the nut from backing off once tight. One thing I can tell you is to get it TIGHT! When yo get it to a point that you can tell it is not going to turn much more, take a look at the nut to see how much more it will need to align the holes for the cotter key to go through and turn it a bit at a time. It will take a pretty decent size wrench to get it as tight as you would need. The ratchet I normally use has a 16" long handle in it. If I use a shorter one I have pieces of pipe that I put over the end to make it longer for more leverage. That way I don't have to pull as hard to get it tight. Bear in mind, if it is not tight enough it can begin wobbling in the tapered seat and ruin the knuckle as well as the ball joint.
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SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT FRONT OF VECHICLE ON JACK STAND MAKE SURE VECHICLE PARKED ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND. REMOVE WHEEL OR TIRE. REMOVE BALL JOINT STUD PINCH BOLT AND NUT FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE.REMOVE BALL JOINT BY PRYING IT FROM THE KNUCKLE.REMOVE BALL JOINT TO LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT AND NUT. INSTALL NEW BALL JOINT TO LOWER CONTROL ARM.TORQUE THE BOLT TO 86 FT LBS INSTALL BALL JOINT TO THE STEERING KNUCKLE TORQUE BOLT TO 43 FT LBS YOU MORE LIKELY NEED FRONT END REALIGNMENT AFTER THE JOB DONE.
The replacement of the CV axle is much easier with the vehicle lifted on a suspension lift. With the minivan in neutral and the steering wheel unlocked, removal of the front tire and then caliper assembly will be required. Remove the entire caliper assembly with pads intact to save a step. Be sure to support the caliper assembly to the coil spring so it does not incur damage to the rubber brake hose.
The disconnection of the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end will also be required to allow free movement of the steering knuckle. For Caravans that employ speed sensors, remove the wire harness from the knuckle connection as well.
Remove the cotter pin and castle-headed nut lock from the CV spindle. Next, remove the spring washer and the hub nut. This will require a large socket and breaker bar or a pneumatic gun. To separate the CV axle spindle from the steering knuckle, thread the hub nut back onto the spindle so it's exposing a few threads at the top. Tap on the nut with a large rubber mallet until the splines of the spindle separate from the adjoining knuckle.
At this point, it's wise to place a drain bucket beneath the transaxle side of the CV joint connection to catch trickling transaxle fluid that will leak out once the connection of the axle to transmission is separated.
Because the tie rod end and ball joint connections have been separated, you'll be able to manipulate the knuckle from the CV axle spindle. This requires determination and having an assistant would be helpful.
Once the outer spindle connection of the CV axle is free from the knuckle, you'll need a large pry bar to disengage the inner tri-pot joint out of the transaxle and remove the CV axle from the transmission. This is where some fluid will leak into the drain bucket.
To install the new axle, start with the inner connection to the transaxle so that the inner joint circlip seats in the transaxle side gear. An audible click of the circlip should be heard and then test the connection by trying to pull out on the axle by hand. There will be a little free-play in the axle, but if the circlip is seated, you will not be able to disconnect the axle without the aide of the pry bar.
Next, align the splines of the outer CV axle spindle to the grooves in the steering knuckle. Do not force this connection. Rotate the axle by hand until the splines align properly to the groove. Reconnect the remaining components by reversing the procedure.
Be sure to torque the hub nut, outer tie rod end nut and ball joint retaining nut to the proper torque specifications of your specific year Caravan. Since the Caravan has been around for quite a while and has employed different engine sizes, there may be a slight variance in the torque specs. A quality repair manual for the specific year and design of your Caravan will display the correct torque specs.
Last, replace the wheel and then check and adjust the level of the transaxle fluid. Although only a little may have trickled out by the disconnection, the fluid should be topped off to capacity.
A Ball Joint Can Usually Be Replaced Without Removing The Control Arm From The Vehicle. Place The Vehicle On Jack Stands. Remove The Shock Absorber And Install A Spring Compressor on The Coil Spring.Remove The Nut Securing The Ball Joint To The steering Knuckle And Separate The Knuckle And Then Joint. The Ball Joint Should Be Pressed,Riveted,Bolted,Or Screwed Into The Control Arm.A Service Manual Will Give The Details For The Specific Make And Model Vehicle.
here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.
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Removal & Installation
Apply the brakes and hold in place.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
Release the brakes.
Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
Remove the tie rod heat shield.
Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.
Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.
The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.
The front lower ball joints are pressed into the steering knuckle. Once the brake components are removed, the CV shaft nut and tie rod ends can be removed. Remove the front strut bolts, and the lower ball joint nut. Separate the lower arm from the ball joint. Once the knuckle assembly is off the car remove the lower joint snap ring and dust boot. Utilizing a ball joint press (should be able to rent from local parts store) press the joint out of the knuckle. Re-installation is naturally reverse of removal. I hope this helps.