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loosen of the hand-brake adjustment and press the brake pedal a few times to self adjust the rear brakes. Re-tighten the handbrake adj last. Front brake sounds like a seized caliper,If possible remove caliper and clean and lubricate the piston. This may work but replacement caliper may be the only other solution.Make sure the caliper slides are also clean and lubricated and the brake pads are in good order.(TRY THIS FIRST) Also new brake shoes can make the pedal feel spongy for a couple of hundred miles until they have been run in.
You need to disassemble brakes,twice a year,to clean off rust and lube required places,so they work correctly.
If this is not done,and No one does what Iam suggesting. Then the brake pads drag,because they can not release, and you wear out your pads in 9000 miles,instead of 45,000miles,I get on mine.
What you have,is what I call & I don't mean to be hurtful, is neglect and break down maintainance.
WARNING: Asbestos fiber dust may be present on brake and clutch assemblies and is hazardous to health if inhaled.
Brake and clutch assemblies should be cleaned using a vacuum cleaner recommended for use with asbestos fibers such as brake/clutch/service vacuum. The bag must be labeled per osha instructions, sealed, and the trash hauler notified as to the bag's contents.
If a vacuum suitable for asbestos is not available, cleaning should be done wet. If dust generation is still possible, technicians should wear government-approved toxic dust purifying respirators.
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2.Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3.Remove the W-spring.
4.Remove the M-spring.
5.Remove the disc brake caliper locating pins (2B296).
6.Remove the front disc brake pads and shims from the disc brake caliper (2B120).
7.Compress the caliper piston completely into its BORE
NOTE: Apply a thin layer of Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A Motorcraft WA-10 or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to both sides of the perforated shim only.
No, but could be pad knock back which can be caused by run out of the rotors. This can happen if your pads have worn down too far in the past. I'd advise you to have the rotors ground (on the car) and new pads fitted. The fronts are critical but have the rears checked for run out too. Sometimes new seals in the calipers can help hold the pads against the rotors.This will improve the loss of pedal condition.
i shall help u by telling the procedure.
first remove the brake cable from the caliper.
now check for the dusts if any and re insert into the disc caliper
now bleed the brake master cylinder.
strongly kick the brake.keep it in pressed condition and pour in the brake oil.
now release the brake pedal and push it for two times and then release.now the oil will be evenly distributed into your master cylinder.
To be noted that connection goes directly from brakes master cylinder to the brake pedal. from the brake master cylinder the connection goes to the two wheels(front).check for any oil leakage.
look for 2 bolts or pins that go right thru the calipers, they actually retain the pads, normally the heads will be on the back side of the caliper. take them out, there may be thin metal clips (springy) on top of the pads. remove them too. slide out pads working the caliper back and forth to loosen them up. open up fluid resevoir then with a large screwdriver push the brake piston back so as to be able to get new pads it, bolt it all back and your are done.
Very simple. Have the proper tools for one. Two...lay cardboard down because the brake dust will make some cruddy marks on the pavement. Three...are replacing the WHOL:E caliper or just replacing/resealing the piston?
Very simple to do, just make sure you block the rear wheels or front (depending on which one you are doing).
Unbolt the two carrier bolts, one upper and one lower. These are commonly hex head or "allen" head fastners. Next, have a small container under the hose you will be disconnecting. I hope you have some help to bleed.....you will need to do so. Get the extra brake fluid ahead of time....that's all you need to do really...and once you unblot and disconnect, the brake caliper should be sitting in your lap!
The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes. Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0
Did you try changing front brake flex pipes, sometimes depending on age of vehicle the pipes can collapse from the inside when brakes are pressed on the pressure is forced down but there is no force to release pressure when let off sometimes causing the calipers to stick on. Assuming that both calipers are new and not second hand I would try replacing flex pipes.