Question about 1995 Lincoln Mark VIII

5 Answers

NUMBER 5 CYLINDER IS DEAD ON MY 1995 LINCOLN MARK VIII

THE ENGINE IS RUNNING VERY ROUGH. I HAVE TRACED IT TO CYLINER #5. WHEN I PULL THE SPARK PLUG WIRE OFF THE COIL, THE ENGINE DOESN'T RUN ANY DIFFERENT. ALL THE OTHER CYLINDERS CAUSE A DRASTIC CHANGE. I HAVE REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS, IGNITION COIL, FUEL INJECTOR, AND WIRES FOR THAT CYLINDER. DONE A COMPRESSION TEST ALSO. (190PSI) STILL NO POWER FROM #5. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE CAUSING THIS PROBLEM?

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  • chad306 Dec 21, 2008

    I HAVE TESTED THE CONNECTION TO THE INJECTOR & REPLACED THE INJECTOR ITSELF.

  • chad306 Dec 21, 2008

    I HAVE ALSO ATTACHED A CODE READER TO THE CAR AND THERE ARE NO FAULT CODES UNTIL I GET TO THE CYLINDER OUTPUT TEST WHICH CUTS THE FUEL TO EACH CYLINDER ONE AT A TIME AND THEN TELLS WHICH CYLINDER IS WEAKEST. THE TESTER STATES THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH CYLINDER 5.

  • chad306 Dec 21, 2008

    THE PLUG TO THE COIL IS CLEAN. CHECK FOR A LOOSE GROUND WIRE TO WHAT? THE COIL, OR IN GENERAL?

  • chad306 Dec 21, 2008

    IF THE VALVES WERE NOT CLOSING COMPLETELY I WOULDN'T HAVE 190PSI COMPRESSION ON THAT CYLINDER WOULD I?

  • chad306 Dec 21, 2008

    IF THE RING SEAL WAS BAD I WOULDN'T HAVE 190PSI COMPRESSION WOULD I?

  • chad306 Dec 21, 2008

    THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE ADVICE. THE SPARK PLUG WAS WET WHEN I PULLED IT OUT, SO I KNEW IT HAD TO BE SPARK. I WAS GETTING SPARK TO THE PLUG THOUGH. I DECIDED TO SWITCH THE #5 & #6 SPARK PLUG WIRES TO SEE IF IT COULD BE THE WIRE ANYWAY. SURE ENOUGH #6 CYLINDER BECAME DEAD & #5 WAS AS GOOD AS NEW. CAN'T BELIEVE I WENT THROUGH ALL THIS BECAUSE A NEW PLUG WIRE WAS DEFECTIVE.

    THANKS AGAIN.
    CHAD

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, a couple of ideas you may want to explore/try:

  • remove spark plug of #5;
  • if wet with fuel, then injector is good but no spark;
  • if dry, either it is firing or injector is bad;
  • since injector is new, then should be wet with fuel;
  • if yes, then coil is not getting trigger to fire;
  • if no, then injector is not getting trigger to spray;
  • either which points to engine management computer;
  • a test on injector trigger, on the injector itself, 1 wire would IGN +12, as long as IGN key is ON, there would be 12VDC measured, the other wire should be pulsating when cranking;
  • if yes, then ECM is triggering injector;
  • if not, then ECM is not or wire is detached/loosed from ECM.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 21, 2008

    Glad to be of assistance and appreciate the rating too.

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  • Contributor
  • 1,199 Answers

This is Most lilely a bad ring seal and will need replaced!

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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  • Expert
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Welcome-

there might be a problem with the valves on that cylinder. they might be carboned up to the point that it stays open just a bet so that you have problems.

thanks tom

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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  • Expert
  • 101 Answers

Check your plug going to your ignition coil should be 3 pins maybe your plug is worn,or filled with too much grease and dirt. Some electrnic parts cleaner. But I would look for a loose ground wire first usually green.

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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  • Lincoln Master
  • 2,039 Answers

If our compression good new plug coil ,plug wire the only thing left is the injector wire connector or injector itself that no good

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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1 Answer

4hf1 engine timing marks


Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.

Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.

Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.

Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.

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Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.

Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.

Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.

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Solution:
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-All cylinder has good compression:
Now need to check Spark plug, wire and all injector. Injector must be
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mai Lor

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