NUMBER 5 CYLINDER IS DEAD ON MY 1995 LINCOLN MARK VIII
THE ENGINE IS RUNNING VERY ROUGH. I HAVE TRACED IT TO CYLINER #5. WHEN I PULL THE SPARK PLUG WIRE OFF THE COIL, THE ENGINE DOESN'T RUN ANY DIFFERENT. ALL THE OTHER CYLINDERS CAUSE A DRASTIC CHANGE. I HAVE REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS, IGNITION COIL, FUEL INJECTOR, AND WIRES FOR THAT CYLINDER. DONE A COMPRESSION TEST ALSO. (190PSI) STILL NO POWER FROM #5. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE CAUSING THIS PROBLEM?
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Re: NUMBER 5 CYLINDER IS DEAD ON MY 1995 LINCOLN MARK...
Check your plug going to your ignition coil should be 3 pins maybe your plug is worn,or filled with too much grease and dirt. Some electrnic parts cleaner. But I would look for a loose ground wire first usually green.
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Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.
Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.
Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.
Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.
Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.
Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.
Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.
Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.
It could be couple problems: -Misfire. (Include bad injector, Coil, spark plug wire) -Lost compression due to broken valves, cylinder wall and head or gasket.
Solution: 1 -Do compression test. - If not with in specification (Too low) Need rebuild engine due to broken valve, blow out gasket or even broken cylinder wall. -All cylinder has good compression: Now need to check Spark plug, wire and all injector. Injector must be with in specification (In Ohm) Follow its manual.
V6 engine: firing order: 1 2 3 4 5 6, distributor rotates clockwise. Left bank of engine (driver's side), cylinders 2, 4, 6 (#2 at front of engine). Right bank: 1, 3, 5 (#1 at front of engine).
Inline 6 engine: firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Distributor rotates clockwise.
The number one tower on the dist. cap should have a mark or numeral 1 on it. If not, turn crankshaft to top dead center of compression stroke on number one cylinder, the 0 degrees or "T" mark on the crank pulley pointer. If you are on the compression stroke (not the exhaust stroke), the rotor under the dist. cap will be pointing to the number one cylinder spark plug wire tower.
The knocking can be from #5 cylinder which should be the front cylinder on the drivers side.
You should disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 minutes and see if the reader says the same thing after you restart the car.
If it does not cure the problem, it could be the coil pak for #5. The last thing would be a dirty or bad injector for #5. Hopefully the reader will show you fixed it.
The knock you refer to can easily be a balljoint or tierod end. If you are due for a frontend alignment those are parts which will be checked before an alignment can be done.