The temperature gauge is rising fast even for few minutes after starting the engine and reaches the middle level at once. is this because the cooling fan does not turn on? when does the fan automatically turn on how can i check what causes the problem?
You may need to replace the thermostat. The thermostat is what controls the fan coming on. If the car is having an overheating problem the check engine light will be on since it is not operating in the allowed tollerances.
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Topping up the oil has very little bearing on engines overheating.
You need to remove the radiator cap and top up the cooling system with anti-freeze and water mixed to specifications. Note that I mention RADIATOR CAP and not the expansion reservoir cap. Remove the radiator cap with the engine COLD. Once you have filled the radiator, you need to run the engine until it gets to full operating temperature. Some of the water will overflow out until the thermostat opens, then the water level will rise and fall. When it has settled, bubbles have stopped, turn the engine off, top up one last time. Replace the radiator cap and then top up the reservoir tank.
There are videos online, Google 'burping cooling system', and look at the images tab. Here you go.
It could be the thermostat but you need to check the fluid level and for any leaks (these could even be pin hole) first. If you have one of those infra-red temperature gauges you can check the temperature of the cooling system in the engine bay to double check. Generally the engine temperature should not go much about 90 deg C - this is when the electric cooling fans kick in - are these turning on?
Coolant level first, if it is good, start it up and watch the temp gauge, you need to see if the fan is coming on when it should. Look for leaks once the temp rises and pressure is built up.
Check the hoses, coolant reservoir, radiator (the top is plastic and could leak at a seam as mine did)
Another possibility is the fan clutch, check to see if the fan comes on once it gets warmed up.
Hope this helps.
CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSES AND RELAYS. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.MAKE SURE ITS NOT TOO LOW BECAUSE IF COOLANT TOO LOW . BY NO COOLANT AROUND OR COOLANT SENSOR NOT SUBMERGED IN COOLANT COOLING FANS WONT TURN ON.MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER. CHECK FOR CLAPSE RADIATOR HOSES.CHECK RADIATOR HOSE AT WATER PUMP.IF HOSE LOOK CLAPSE REPLACE IT AND BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.IF EVERY THING HAS BEEN DONE YOU NEED ENGINE BLOCK FLUSHED OUT.HEATER CORE ALSO COULD BE STOPPED UP.A VERY HIGH MILEAGE ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT.OLD ENGINE LOSES COMPRESSION AND HORSE POWER.PUTTING MORE LOAD ON THE OLD ENGINE WILL MAKE IT OVER HEAT.IF COOLANT LEVEL IS LOW.BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.START THE ENGINE LET IT IDLE FEW MINUTES WATCH THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE.WHEN TEMPERATURE START RISING.TURN OFF THE ENGINE LET IT SET FOR 20 MINUTES.TAKE A LARGE RAG PLACE OVER RADIATOR CAP ON COOLANT EXPANSION TANK SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP JUST A LITTLE TO RELEASE A LITTLE PRESSURE AT A TIME.DONT OPEN CAP RAPIDLY OR YOU WILL GET SCALDED.ONCE THE RADIATOR CAP REMOVED.IF COOLANT LOW ADD MORE COOLANT IN THE THE COOLANT EXPANSION UNTIL YOU GET TO THE COLD MARK.REPEAT THIS PROCEDURE START ENGINE LET IT RUN UNTIL TEMP GAUGE START CLIMBING A BIT DONT LET CAR RUN TO OVER HEAT JUST IDLE UNTIL TEMP JUST START TO RISE.THEN YOU TURN OFF ENGINE. WAIT 20 MINUTES.THEN USE LARGE RAG OPEN RADIATOR CAP LITTLE AT A TIME. DO THIS PROCEDURE UNTIL THE COOLANT IN THE EXPANSION TANK STOP DROPPING. THEN ALL THE AIR IS BLEED OUT THE COOLANT.WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING, WHEN YOU DRIVE CAR AROUND.AND TURN OFF ENGINE.WHEN ENGINE OFF CAR SET FOR A WHILE KEEP CHECK ON THE COOLANT LEVEL IN COOLANT EXPANSION TANK. THE COOLANT LEVEL SHOULD BE AT THE COLD MARK IN THE EXPANSION TANK.MAKE SURE COOLANT IS IN THE EXPANSION TANK.IF NOT AIR WILL DRAW IN COOLANT SYSTEM. CAUSING ENGINE TO OVER HEAT.IF BLEEDING AIR OUT THE COOLANT SYSTEM DONT HELP AND COOLANT FANS DONT TURN ON YOU HAVE PCM PROBLEMS.
If the vehicle is an manual gearbox, hold the clutch in until the engine has taken properly. If it is a manual rather start i neutral with the park brake on than in Park. Once the engine has started, let it idle for a minute or so before driving off slowly. Until the temperature gauge has at least reached the 1/4 mark, try keep engine revs below about 2500. All the while keep an eye on the temperature gauge, if it rises very sharply and the fan does not come on, there is a possibility that the radiator is frozen and the engine will boil and burst a hose. If the temperature does rise suddenly, stop and carefully feel if the radiator is still cold. If it is, shut off the engine and wait till the radiator has thawed. This will take a while but can be hastened by starting the engine for a few minutes to warm the engine compartment to help thaw the radiator. When water is circulating freely, you should see a sudden drop in temperature. Do not rev the engine too much, the incoming water will be ice cold and could crack something. This is not something that occurs often, especially if you try park the car where air cannot readily blow through the radiator overnight.
When your temperature gauge reaches "H' it may too late to
prevent a major breakdown. Knowing the symptoms of an overheated car and how
they occur may be the difference between being inconvenienced and
incapacitated. Identification:---Other than a low oil level or low oil
pressure light, there is not a more significant part of a car's instrumentation
than a rising temperature gauge or a glowing "Hot" light. These
lights are really the only confirmation a driver has that his car is really
overheating. It is the identification of the symptoms of an overheating car
that enable the motorist to avert a badly damaged engine. Overheating is always
a traumatic event for a car's engine, which makes the early identification of
the symptom an important addition to the informed motorist's tool kit. Stuck Thermostat:--The car's thermostat is a valve that controls coolant
flow from the engine block to the radiator. When the engine is cold the
thermostat remains closed so that the coolant can reach operating temperature
quicker and also provide heat to the passenger's compartment. The thermostat
has a spring on it that moves depending on coolant temperature causing the
thermostat to open. Sometimes the thermostat fails to open thus restricting
coolant flow to the radiator where it would be cooled down. This condition is often
the cause of overheating. The symptoms of this cause would be a rising
temperature gauge and possibly the loss of heat inside the car. Restricted Radiator:---A car's radiator will have thousands of gallons of
coolant passing through in its lifetime. Along with the coolant comes
particulate matter in the form of corrosion breaking loose from various parts
of the car's cooling system. These contaminates collect in the tubes of the
radiator reducing its efficiency. Extensive "plugging" in the radiator
will cause the car to overheat. The symptom of this condition would be a rising
temperature gauge which goes up when you accelerate. Coolant Loss:--A car's
cooling system is a closed loop system. You are not supposed to lose coolant.
Sufficient coolant loss will cause the engine to run hot because engine is
heating less coolant to higher temperatures. The symptom of overheating induced
by coolant loss would be a pool of coolant on the pavement when the leak is
external. Steam under the hood as the lost coolant hits hot parts of the
engine, or a rising temperature gauge in the case of a undetectable engine
related leak. Of course, the gauge would also go up if the leaks were not
Deteriorated Water Pump:--Cars
use a belt driven pump to push the water and coolant mixture through the
cooling system. This part is called the water pump. Rarely the impeller that
draws the coolant through the pump will rust away making it impossible to push
any through the system. If this occurs the temperature gauge will climb and coolant
will boil over in the radiator.
cooling fans are electrically driven. Some are driven by fan belts. If a belt
breaks or the electric supply to the fan is interrupted overheating may result.
Electric fans are tuned on thermostatically when needed. When the car runs at
idle for extended periods or the weather is extremely hot, a failed fan will
cause overheating otherwise it serves as a standby assist to the rest of the
cooling system. In stress conditions an inoperable fan will cause the
temperature gauge to rise.
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Hi Code P 0217 does point to the thermostat but it also points to the wiring, cooling system, and the temperature sensor, to check the thermostat start engine then once the temperature gauge in the car reaches normal the thermostat should open and the top hose that goes into the radiator will warm up quickly as the thermostat opens, if the thermostat is stuck in it's open position the top hose will start warming up before the engine reaches it's working temperature, hopefully i have explained it clearly,