Question about 1992 Nissan Pickup

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ELECTRICAL PUT NEW ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY ON. STILL WON'T START, DASH LIGHTS, AND HEATER WON'T WORK.

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  • dwcomp48 Dec 21, 2008

    how would i chk the ground cable? also i got the year wrong, it is a 1991 nissan p/up. have ckd the fuses under the dash and will ck the ones under the hood 2morrow. thank you.... will get back to you 2morrow.

  • dwcomp48 Dec 23, 2008

    that wasn't the problem, but thanks for trying.

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On my 92 nissan D21 i have to replace the ground battery clamp every month. just go buy another ground clamp. and for the lights scrub the hell out of the positive battery clamp i had the same problem yesterday with mine and after all the time i spent trying different things it was the damn positive battery clamp make shure its not corodid

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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Ck the main fuses under hood the main fuses close to the batterie 80 amps and 100 amp ratings replace them also ck the ground cable from batt to engine bloc

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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The new alternator is probably ok.
I would say you burned a fuseable link in the wiring harness.
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The alternator light comes on when the field voltage drops below a certain voltage. There is a possibility the connector to the alternator is corroded, as this is commmon, and may be a source for a false indication of trouble. There is also the possibility the regulator is failing. If the voltage was below 13.8 volts when he measured the voltage, he was only reading battery voltage. if he measured between 14.2 and 14.8 volts the alternator was putting out power.

An indirect way of checking is turn on the headlights, high beam when it is idling at night. turn on the heater so you can see the lights dim slightly, and then step on the accelerator to bring engine speed up to about 1200 RPM- the lights should get brighter. If they do not, the alternator is not putting out current like it should be.

Load testing would only measure the battery, it would not load the engine at all if the alternator is not putting out power. If the engine bogged down when alternator is load tested, the alternator is putting out power. The alternator is converting engine power to voltage and current to charge the battery, hence the load on the engine.

If the alternator has 75000 miles on it, replacing it is a pretty good idea as the brushes are quite worn at this point. That should remedy the situation.

It would also probably be a good idea to replace the starter solenoid. Turning the key 2 or 3 times before the starter engages is never a good sign.

The only way the heater might enter into your situation is if something is not shutting off when the key is in the off position or removed. Those phantom loads will find an electrical path to ground through the fan motor. If you have installed anything aftermarket that can be powered up without the key needing to be in the ignition is your culprit. The pahnatom loads like that can discharge a battery completely in a matter of just a few days.

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I have a 2003 Kia spectra. The battery died so I got anew battery. It died again so we got a new alternator. Still would nots start. Jumped it and started fine but would not keep a charge when not...


CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND FUSE LINK ALTERNATOR NOT GETTING NO POWER FROM BATTERY.ALSO CHECK ALTERNATOR WIRES CONNECTORS FOR DAMAGE OR BROKE WIRES IN THE ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS. I HAD SAME PROBLEM WITH CHEVROLET THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES CAME OUT THE CONNECTOR I HAD TO BUY NEW CONNECTOR CRIMP IT SOLDER THEN SEAL IT WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE IF FUSE AND FUSE LINK OKAY MORE LIKELY YOU HAVE DAMAGED WIRES AT CONNECTOR MAKE SURE DRIVE BELT TIGHT AND NOT SLIPPING.

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CHECK ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT COULD BE LOOSE NEED ADJUSTING OR GLAZED NEED REPLACING. IF ALL IS GOOD, CHECK ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE OUT PUT AT BATTERY SHOULD BE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS. IF NOT ALTERNATOR FAULTY BUT CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY FEED AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR LOOSE CONNECTION OR DAMAGED FRAYED WIRES. CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE.CHECK THOSE THINGS BEFORE BUYING NEW ALTERNATOR.FIRST TURN OFF RADIO BEFORE DISCONNECTING BATTERY CABLE TO KEEP FROM LOCKING OUT RADIO.

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If both the alternator and the battery are good, either the alternator isn't turning fast enough (slipping belt or engine idle speed too slow), or you have a wiring problem.

To check your wiring, look for the "1" terminal on the back of the alternator (left side of spade terminal connector). When you turn the ignition key to the run position without starting the engine, the alternator warning light should be at full brightness. If the bulb is burned out, the alternator will not get the excitation current it needs to start up (it goes through the bulb). With the engine running, you should measure 12 Volts at the 1 terminal (this is the excitation terminal).

Another thing to check is whether the battery charge wire is good. If it is corroded inside at the battery clamp end or burned out, you won't get charging even though the alternator appears to be working. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can make a quick test by adding a new 8 AWG wire between the output terminal and the battery clamp. If the battery now charges, the original wire is bad. If this works, I recommend installing an inline fuse at the alternator end no larger than the largest size used in your electrical system, just in case something happens to the jumper wire. That way you won't burn out your alternator.

The heater/AC issue could very likely be a separate problem, but inadequate power may keep that system from running properly. (Note: low idle speed or belt problems will also be detrimental to AC performance.)

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