Issue with car accelerating when cold. After it runs 15 minutes and the car is turned off then restarted, it runs perfectly, as though it 'resets' itself.

P228C, it has applied exclusively to diesel powered vehicles. It has also meant that the powertrain control module (PCM) had detected a low voltage signal from the control circuit of the electronic fuel pressure regulator, which reflected insufficient fuel pressure.

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Still sounds like a fuel starvation issue - pump, filter or regulator. Check pressure at tthe engine.

Question, is the engine light on? I had a eagle talon with a similar mitsu engine as yours along with similar issues. I didn't have any overheating problems, nor did the gague seem any different. Also, the check engine light never came on. Like your car, when it was hot outside after driving or if the engine was at operating temperature it would not restart unless the engine cooled properly. I didn't have this issue so much in the winter or if I drove in the morning when it was colder, or on short trips that didn't raise the temperature of the engine much... mainly the summer was the worst, having to spend 20-40 minutes letting it cool down. The car would act like it would start but the coolant switch was making the car flood. The car had a high gas smell when attempting to restart the motor when hot due to this. Once it cooled it started perfectly, and ran perfectly fine. It was just restarting while hot that was impossible. My mechanic found the issue in less than 5 minutes saying it was somewhat common for the coolant switch to scale over due to cooling system neglect. The mechanic asked if I used tap water to fill the coolant system, which I did, and that in turn caused the minerals from the water to crust over the switch (along with my entire cooling system). That with 9 year old coolant and it being low helped to crust the switch over as well. A quick dip of the crusted over part of the switch in a household mineral remover (not the entire switch) and a coolant system flush (with comercial coolant system flush) fixed the issue and removed a LOT of mineral deposits too. Basically, it cost me $15 in labor plus the cost of materials to flush and fill the cooling system (and a case of beer for not screwing me over, which he could have easily). Hope that helps..

two things from what I read is the tps sensor and iac valve

Sounds like it needs a new thermostat.

Itis trying to tell you you shouldn't be driving it till it's warm. I won't move my car till at least 1 minute after starting regardless of temp.

Crank position sensor fault. Check that the connection is clean and that the wiring to the PCM has continuity. If it all checks out swap out the CKP. The situation you describe matches the last of symptoms below:

Symptoms of faulty crank position sensor

• Starting difficulty/failure/stall - If the faulty CKP timing problems are severe they may prevent the engine to fire, to fire and then stall, or stall at some random time without warning.
• Hot engine shut off and failure to restart - The engine may start and run perfectly from cold but will begin to misfire or suddenly shut off after about 15 minutes once the engine has reached operating temperature. This effect is due to thermal expansion of the CKP causing an intermittent break in electrical continuity and therefore the signal output to the ECU is interrupted. Sometimes the engine will restart but fail again after a further 15 minutes. On other occasions the engine will not restart until it has completely cooled down.

• Misfire - miss-timed spark delivery caused by a faulty CKP signal can cause misfire and back fire events.
• Hesitant acceleration, acceleration ceiling - Miss-timed ignition due to a faulty CKP signal can be exacerbated by increased engine speed. The engine maybe run evenly at idle but will fail to accelerate properly at higher revs until the engine reaches a power ceiling.

How to check? If the CKP has died completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical connections associated with the open circuit. Furthermore spark delivery to the plugs will be absent. First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through. If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.

2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.

your ac compressor is freezing up try not putting it on cold all the way. put thermostat towards the red jus a lil but still on the cold side to see if that helps

cold can play hell with electronics. if it happens again (provided the battery is the proper one for that vehicle) hit the accelerator and see if the lights go out. sometimes just a good warm up will rectify the issue. happy holidays

Your oil is a little low, and the timing may be off a bit but if it smooths out after warm it is probably ljust
low oil.