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-Battery is full...? If so check for corosion battery cable. And make sure good connector (Tight) -If all are good and just Click but can't turn. >>> Need new starter.
the alternator runs on bushes pushed by springs a new regulator that has new bushes and springs should fix it as long as the armature isn't damaged i would ask the auto elec how much for a reconditioned alternator or if you don't trust auto elec try another auto elec, if they doth say same thing, they are right, your loyalty to your mechanic has cost you a small fortune already .auto electricians have more advanced tools for testing , hope this helps
If you turn key to START position, what is the sound, is it;
1. no sound at all means maybe starter problem.
2. only heard Tik sound means starter problem (you can add relay but it will still happen in future)
3. crank sound but not start means battery weak.
You can also try to move gearshift to N instead of at P position before turn key to START. if it work mean your car safety switch at gearbox not know which gear you're on.
The instrument cluster in this van is really a computer display and it has malfunctioned. This is a common complaint on this van and you must remove the cluster and have it rebuilt to cure the problems. Check the WEB for repair sources. They can also provide complete instructions on removal free of charge.
When the alternator doesn't supply current, the battery light on the dash would light up. (assuming the battery lightbulb is working) Next would be to doubt the voltage regulator not doing a proper job, but usually its either dead or working.
Ghost consumers can be tracked when the engine is off and removing / attaching the battery lead causes quite a bit of spark. Measure the Amps with a multimeter when turned off. When it's in the 2 Amps and upwards region - remove one fuse group after the other to see where most of it goes. Then go through all the separate consumers in that group.
If it's a low current preferably below the 1 Amp - the battery might not be as healthy anymore as suspected.
You need to get a digtal voltage meter (about $15) and check it out yourself-readings at the battery should be 12.5 volts after sitting overnight. Once you start it, the readings at the battery terminals should go up to almost 15 volts when first started, then gradually drop down to around 14.2 volts-I would bet either your battery is bad, or your battery is bad and your alternator has failed trying to supply power to a bad battery-either way, your mechanic should not have allowed the battery light to stay on after changing out the alternator without finding out what was wrong-he did not fix it.
Well it's temping to put in biggfer fuses as the problem gets worse but the size of the fuses are to keep you from burning things up so you've from your probem with a 30 amp smoke test. The raditor fan wire is melted somewhere in the wire harnes to the wire for the trck lock or even key on circirts. the likly place to look is inside the stering collum. It takes the skills of removing the steering whel and the lcok plate and even then thats does'nt have to be where the problem is. You need to look under the dash after you remove the covers and use you nose to smeel for the burnt wiring and open up any thing the smells like it's been hot and anything the appers melted together. once a harness is found melted you need to seragete all the wires in the loom but don't cut the wires justy seaparte them. once you think you've got then all pulled apart so no bear wires touch each other or any meal parts put in the correct size fuses and see if you can connect the battery with out a spark. if you can you may then start checking to see what works and what does'nt.. This all sounds like too much work or too hard to do then you'll need to pay someone theat knows alot about car wiring problems to do it for you. I'll been doing this kind of work for the last 20 years and a'm alawys finding new things that are fried and burnt up. We all charge by the hour to do this work so the most experieced mechanic that works on cars like yours will probly find and fix the problem the fastest. therefore they may charge more per hour but their likly to get it right quicker and it'll stay fixed after they fix it.. This is the most likly kind of work to go sour after it's fixed cause they might miss a circuit that you use and they did'nt try. and as soon as it burns again it's back to the drawing board and if big fuses are use the fire can take the whole car.
i need anyone one to help me with this problem, i have a BMW328ci and i tried tyo get out of my house this morning and all roads were frozen and the car started sliping and i activated the dcs button and car was still slipering and then brake, ABS, CBC & DSC lights turned on and i need to know how i can reset these lights so they can come off
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