Question about 1993 Mazda 323

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My 94 mazda 323 is boiling in the overflow tank. i have a ajustable thermate state that fix the promblem last time but now its doin it again. check by racq and they said that my fan is not kicking in.

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Try this, test your cooling fan make sure is in good shape, id would take it out and test it by running 12V to the fan at the plug. I would not to use adjustable thermostats, use only OEM parts when it come to thermostat, spend a little to bring it back to stock, drain all antifreeze and fill it up 80% antifreeze and the rest water. change out your engine coolant temp sensor 32 bucks and auxiliary switch 43 bucks with new one. keeping the vechicle engine in normal operating temp required all the fuse, relay, sensors to work. your coolant temp sensor tells the comp when to turn on the fan when it reach above normal, to cool it down, if it faulty have of the time it wont run.

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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I have had a similar problem.Check all of your Radiator and Heater hoses for leaks. The cooling system doesn't need to lose much coolant to create overheating problems. If you find no leaks -check that your bottom radiator hose isn't sucking flat and restricting coolant flow.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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The car was overheating i checked all hoses and replaced the thermostat the radiator it still is ovrheating and the water is boiling in the overflow tank


Answer could be a faulty thermostat,or it could be a sign that your head gasket is about to blow ,or last of all your timing could be out of sync.

Answer 2 from Inventus: It means your cooling system is funtioning properly. In a system having a coolant recovery tank, coolant in the radiator is always up to the brim, hot or cold. There is negligible or no air space. When coolant in the radiator expands sufficiently due to warming from the engine, it will squeeze past the pressure cap's bottom seal and flow into the recovery tank. (If no provision for such expansion was present, the expansion would rupture the radiator or your hoses.) Only coolant within the radiator is under pressure, and because of this pressure (together with the elevated boiling point that the "anti-freeze" permits), it normally does not boil. But once past the pressure cap's bottom seal, the overflow is at atmospheric pressure and therefore boils.
This boiling is usually unnoticed after a short, i.e., local, trip because the cooler coolant already in the recovery tank quenches it. But after some highway driving the influx of more hot overflow heats up all the coolant in the recovery tank to the (unpressurized, i.e., "natural") boiling point.
As the engine cools when shut off, the contracting coolant in the radiator sucks back coolant from the recovery tank. Fluid in the recovery tank should never be below the "full hot" or "full cold" marks, lest air be sucked in.
-- BETTER ANSWER ==
Your cooling fans are not turning on. It is not normal for your overflow tank to boil like that. It is true that your radiator is overflowing into the reserve tank, but that means yourr adiaotor is boiling. Check for blown fuses or relays for your cooling fans. IF theya re fine. run your engine for about 15 minutes and drive. When you temp level is at normal operating temp open your hood with the engine runing and see if your fans are on. If they are, then you may have a bad thermostat or a plugged radiator, or a bad water pump. If the fans are not on, get your cooling fan switch replaced if your car has one. Check your temp sending sensor

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