Driving less than a mile the car would shut off several times when slowing down in traffic or stopping at stop light. why? and it takes a while to start back up. why?
SOURCE: 96 NISSAN MAXIMA SHUTS OFF UPON DECELLERATION OR WHEN STOPPED
Check to see if the floor on the passanger side is wet. If so, than your A/C drain clogged up and your ECM/computer got flodded by water causing all sorts of funky stuff happening. Right next to the gas pedal is a small cover attached to the computer. It has a clip in it. Remove the clip and tug on the cover. Look at the top of the computer to see if its rusted up. Remove the other side cover also, which is on passanger side floor next to your left foot(if you sitting in passenger seat). and check other side of ECM/computer. Check the ECM for rust on top.
If ALL of that looks OK, than I would replace the switch,(since you are telling me that the key got VERY hot) that is mounted on the back of the ignition cylinder. Its a white round switch that failes after a while especially car beeing 1996, just think about how many times that ignition has been turned ON/OFF since 1996. The mechanism in the switch failes, causing starting issues and funky electrical issues.
Does the car have a remote starter installed?? Or didi it have one in the past?? I have seen companies that install them cause some damage to the harnesses on the switch that is mounted to the back of the igniton cylinder. They use "scotch locks" to connect the remote starter and after a while the connection corrode and cause problems too.
Anyways, check the computer for rust first. Than I would install that switch on back of the igniton. You can buy the switch seperately. You dont need the whole ignition assembly/switch only. Switch is pretty cheap (approx $50 ?). Try that and post results. I would feel pretty good about the switch beeing faulty. I have ssen them fail in the past and that's where your power comes into for the starter circuit.(key getting HOT, switch shorting out, making the key hot and starting the car without the key)
SOURCE: the car starts no problem,
Hondas have an issue with the main relay. Apparently it is a device that is sensitive to temperature. If you check out the other posters for Civic and Accord, you will see quite a few others with similar problems. On the website http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/1/aa010301a.htm the author writes a very informative article about this problem, including how to go about diagnosing it. He writes that the problem can be exaggerated by the simultaneous failure of other parts. Good Luck.
SOURCE: my car shuts down when I stop at a red light
This problem was solved by replacing a sticky air control valve.
SOURCE: Shuts off While Driving or Quick "engine light" flash while drive
WHEN THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT LIGHT COMES ON YOUR MANUAL NORMALLY SAYS TAKE IT TO THE DEALER, AND THE STALLING IS PROBABLY A LIMP HOME MODE
SOURCE: when driving my 96 jeep cherokee will shut down an...
crank shaft sensor, as soon as car warms up, it will skip (engine stutter(, then when engine cools, so does crank shaft sensor. Good Luck
Hello
The engine
and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train
are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM
(Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the
computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some
exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature
sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in
its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems
memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read
you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and
resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A
TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR
HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
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