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The car runs good but stalls every time i come to a stop. ... a stop then it diesagain.only on the stops does the idle drop very low to the point of stalling.what ... only when I start slowing down and come to a complete stop RPM's go down and the cardies. ... The popular Honda Civic and Accord vehicles share many powertrain ...
Jan 10, 2013 - I just bought a 1998 4 cyl 2.3 L Honda Accord two days ago. ... 1998Honda Accord loses rpm/ stalls coming to a stop. .... Is clockwise high idle or low idle? all in all i probable rotated counterclockwide 1.5 or 2 turns. maybe this ...
What should I do if once I turn on my Ac my idle drops as if it's gonna die, and .... to a complete stop the rpms start going up and the car accelerates on its own. ... Honda Accord LX, and my Honda just started sputtering in idle. check engine .... My cousin replaced my radiator on my 90 civic and since then my temp gauge is ...
Jun 11, 2010 - 1990 Honda Accord Ex F22 209000 miles, recent alternator change When I ... When I take off from a stoplight I get a little hesitation/bogging/sputteringfeeling until about 2,000 RPM then ... My 1999 Accord had a similar problem (F18B2engine). ... It only lasted a second or so before it would actually rev up.
Sounds like a low idle. adjust idle to a higher RPM by tighening the nut and bolt to the throttle body from the gas pedal. It is reccommended that you get it inspected and read the ucu or computer for a code this will tell you the exact problem, but will not tell you to adjust throttle body to up idle.
The alternator has a regulator built in to it. Alternators create an alternating current that then goes through some diodes that create the DC voltage that the car runs on, and charges the batery.
The diodes, and the regulator are built in to the alternator in nearly every new car. When the car is running at a lower RPM it sounds like they are doing there job just right. At the higher RPM's the alternator makes a higher voltage that must be regulated to about 14 volts for your accessories, and your battery to charge. It sounds to me like the regulator inside the alternator is wearing out. If you take your car to Checker, Kragen, or equivelant, they can do a test on your regulator for FREE.
The Checker by my house will only do this test while the sun is shining outside so you might want to call first.
Take your car in to them and when they are testing it rev the car up so the problem will manifest itself while on the machine.
You will probably have to change out the whole alternator, diode, regulater. (They are a package deal.)
I would get the lifetime warrenty one if you need to replace it. That doesn't mean it wont break down in the future, but it does mean you won't have to pay for a new one ever again for that car.
There may be no loss of voltage, but is there a surge of voltage?
As for the battery itself when tested, it should read 12-12.5Volts
across the leads when the car is off. When the car is running, the
battery should be reading 13-14Volts across the leads, anything lower
means the alternator is not charging your battery, anything higher
means the alternator is over charging and damaging your battery.
Another cause for the battery light could be your ECU has detected an error
Your altinator may be going bad, If you have a multi meter ground it on the alt. caseing and push the hot lead into the red wire on the back side of the alt. , as the car is running, you should get a reading of 14.2 or better if its less, the alt. is bad. But if its 14.2 or better change the battery.