Car sparks on all 4 cylnders but remove 3 4 leads away from timming belt end and makes no difference i think it should run like a pig with 2 leads of it checked injectors all ok computer says misfire misfire wont go over 20 mph compression test done ok .
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: car sparking on all 4 clynders
If the plugs are not wet, you have a fuel problem. Check the fuel pressure, if low, the system is unable to purge itself and the last two injectors on the fuel rail are vapor-locked. If the fuel pressure is low you probably have a problem in the tank. There is a flexible line connecting the fuel pump to the steel line that may have a rupture causing the low pressure condition. Or the fuel pump may be bad.
If you find my suggestions to be helpful, please share with us some details so that others may benefit from knowing the whole story. Thank you!
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Now spark plugs last a very long time manufacturers are confident in hiding them away behind other stuff that has to be painstakingly unbolted, unclipped or generally removed for access. Even standard spark plugs are good for a couple of years of average driving and most will manage 30 or 40,000 miles.
The last couple of services I did I had to consider whether replacement was advisable at between 60 and 70,000 miles. Even studying the electrodes through a powerful magnifier didn't show any reason to change them. I did change them because the internal suppressor resistor does tend to wear out electrically.
Like a lot of people I don't think it is natural or advisable to leave spark plugs for that length of time so mostly I am taking them out, looking at them and then putting them back with some anti-seize on the threads and silicone grease on the boots and terminals.
Plug spanners are out these days and sometimes it is two extension bars, the ratchet, the socket and a couple of universal joints that are needed to service the plugs after moving a lot of other rubbish and then sometimes even having to lay across the engine...
with a compression of 150 psi the timing belt will be in the right place so that can be eliminated . you need 3 things to make an engine run they are compression ( which you have plenty of --- fuel you can hear the pump but are you getting pressure in the fuel manifold and lastly spark. So have a pressure test done on the fuel manifold top check for pressure regulator --pump/ filter faults . Next check for spark at a plug lead. Check that the injectors are working . Missing just 1 of the 3 will not run an engine.
REMOVE TOP ENGINE COVER,REMOVE CYLNDER HEAD CENTER COVER,YOUR WILL SEE IGNITION COILS SETS ON TOP OF SPARK PLUGS.ALL 4 SPARK PLUGS EACH, WILL HAVE A IGNITION COIL ON TOP OF THEM.REMOVE THE COIL SCREW THEN UNPLUG THE COIL ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR.REMOVE COIL, THEN YOU CAN REMOVE SPARK PLUG.YOU WILL NEED A LONG EXTENSION AND A LONG SPARK PLUG SOCKET TO REMOVE SPARK PLUG.
On any four cylinder engine the firing order is always 1-3-4-2. Cylinder 1 is at the front of the engine, the same end as the timing chain and the opposite end to the gearbox.
Remove the spark plugs and manually turn over the engine until the timing marks line up (down by the crankshaft pulley). You can use a socket on the crankshaft nut to turn the engine bit by bit, the purpose of removing the spark plugs is to prevent cylinder compression making it easier.
Once the timing mark has lined up, remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor arm and briefly pop the distributor cap back on: the lead exiting the cap above the rotor arm should go to cylinder #1. The next quadrant that the rotor arm advances as you turn the engine over to will be the position that the lead for cylinder #3 attaches. By the same process you can then identify where the leads to cylinders #4 and #2 go.
When finished, ensure that the distributor cap is securely fastened and refit the spark plugs: if they're taper seat spark plugs (no washers) then when they just get tight then tighten no more than a further 1/6th of a turn. If they have washers then it's an extra 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and a bit more if they're brand new plugs where the washers have never been compressed. Refit the leads in the correct order which you've just established and make sure that they're secure and you should be good to go unless there's another problem.
To confirm if your getting spark or not remove the lead coming from your coil to the center of the distributor. Place the end of this lead @ 1/4" away from a clean piece of gronded metal. Have another person crank the engine for a second or two. If you are "getting spark" you'll clearly and probably hear a small blue spark. If you see nothing I'd check in to the crank sensor.
I hope this may have helped,
Hi if your car is petrol then you need to check that the plugs work try swapping them round with 1 and 2 if they work you then need to check the leads you can do this by taking the plugs out of 3 and for and then connect them to the spark plug leads then rest them so they are earthing out in the engine bay( you need to make sure its just the end of the spark plug resting onto metal then turn the engine over and you should see if the plugs are sparking it should be bright and regular spark. (its better to do this in the dark ) before you remove the plugs wait till its dark then with the bonnet up get someone to turn the car over and nif their are any sparks coming from the leads on 3 and 4 if their is then the leads need replacing.
IF no spark at plug and no short on the leads then you need to check the distributer this is where all the plug leads go into check this for any crack when you remove it.
Once removed look inside at the four contacts make sure they are clean and free from contaminents such as oil as their is a seal just behind this might have gone you can use sand paper to clean the terminals to ensure the electric can be sent from the rotary arm to the distributer so check its clean als use fine sand paper on the end of the rotary arm then refit and check for sparks again if its now sparking then give the car a try.
If you are getting a spark at all four of the plugs and the spark is good all round then the only problem you could have would be with the head gasket.
Are you sure the leads are fitted correct way round before you start any work.
If you have checked all leads and you have good spark then it can only be the head gasket this can be tested by using a sniff test or a compression tester these can both be brought from car spares shops but prices can vary.
Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok