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also make sure your pvc system is not clogged up.. positive ventilation of the crankcase..as in removeal of any pressure from worn rings .. take the hose loose at the valve cover..and while running see if vapor comes out excessively..you can boost suction by connecting a "T" in the line to a suction (vacuum) line like your brake booster line..vapor is burned off while the motor is running..pressure wont blow oil past the seals anymore..
the fault codes you have are all misfire codes p1313 and p1314 are manufactuer codes only. but they all point to same issue check the engine wiring harness under the air box for chaffing also the on plug coils are very unreliable the spark plug internal resistance is critical use only genuine plugs we had to change all 6 because pattern plugs had been fitted and check for water ingress in to the ecm/connector that may be the problem
Check for air intake leaks the most common place are at the check valve that goes to brake booster,the imt rings gaskets, and the hose that goes to you pvc valve, http://www.cannell.co.uk/Jaguar_Work...uals/JCD-1.zip download this cd for the complete computer service manual on how to do anything on the car
That sounds like a brake booster problem. The brake booster runs on engine vacuum to help make the brake pedal easier to push and easier to stop the tahoe. When a booster develops an internal leak, you can hear the vacuum escaping through the leak when you step on the brake. The engine stalls because the vacuum leak in the brake booster also causes a large vacuum leak for the engine.
To verify that this is actually the problem, go outside the vehicle with the hood open. Find the large brake fluid reservoir attached to a large round metal black (usually) canister on the driver's side of the firewall. (back of the engine compartment.) There is a large black rubber hose pushed into the top of the black canister, which is the vacuum line attached to the brake booster. Pull the rubber hose out of the grommet on the booster and stick your finger over the hose. Have someone start the tahoe. You will feel a considerable amount of vacuum pulling at your finger, and if you take your finger off the hose, the engine will stall. Also have someone step on the brakes while your finger is over the vacuum hose. If the noise is gone then you know the problem is in the brake booster. Don't forget to re-attach the vacuum line to the brake booster. Failure to do this will result in the engine running very rough (if at all) and the brakes will require excessive effort to try to stop the tahoe.
I would have the codes read and see if it has any. If the car misfires enough you may go into limp mode to keep from damaging the cat converter. Check for
vacuum leaks at the intake manifold tuning valve o-ring seals and the
PCV hose for splits. The IMT seals are known to leak worse in cold
weather due to shrinkage. Also dirty fuel injectors can cause this as
well. If you can clean them with a professional style
cleaner that requires the fuel pump to be disabled that is the best way
to go. Of course all this is internet guessing without the codes being
pulled but the vacuum leak check is easy. A lot of times you can hear
them leaking and just putting your hand around the valve will change the
sound.I just had a problem similar with my Audi and it was a hose that came off.
It appears that your brake booster system has a major vacuum leak which is causing the engine to go lean and stall. Check the hose between the intake manifold and the brake booster. It may be cracked or loose causing outside air to enter the hose when the brake is applied.
the vacuum hose should be linked from intake manifold to thebrake booster on brakes as well as to the side of the gearbox onthe vacuum canister. should any one leak there will be a misfire or no vavuum for brakes.