Question about 2005 Jaguar X-Type

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I am getting a code for misfiring rate excessive emissions

IMT o-ring leaking vacuum
crankcase hose leaking
brake booster vacuum hose leaking

I want to know what IMT stands for

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  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    leak

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Hi d   inlet manifold tuneing       The valve increases or decreases the manifold length

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

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1 Answer

Why my engine misfiring at idle speed?


most likely will be dirty injector tips or low fuel pressure
next can be vacuum leak--check vent control hoses, brake booster, vacuum actuator hose
run the fault codes

Sep 28, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine front oil leak on 3.2l engine in SA


also make sure your pvc system is not clogged up.. positive ventilation of the crankcase..as in removeal of any pressure from worn rings .. take the hose loose at the valve cover..and while running see if vapor comes out excessively..you can boost suction by connecting a "T" in the line to a suction (vacuum) line like your brake booster line..vapor is burned off while the motor is running..pressure wont blow oil past the seals anymore..

Dec 09, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Low idle and engine miss only when cold


Check for air intake leaks the most common place are at the check valve that goes to brake booster,the imt rings gaskets, and the hose that goes to you pvc valve, http://www.cannell.co.uk/Jaguar_Work...uals/JCD-1.zip download this cd for the complete computer service manual on how to do anything on the car

Jan 04, 2012 | 2003 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

I have a 96 Tahoe and when i press the brake pedal i hear a hissing sound by the pedal and engine sometimes stalls, what could the problem be ?


That sounds like a brake booster problem. The brake booster runs on engine vacuum to help make the brake pedal easier to push and easier to stop the tahoe. When a booster develops an internal leak, you can hear the vacuum escaping through the leak when you step on the brake. The engine stalls because the vacuum leak in the brake booster also causes a large vacuum leak for the engine.

To verify that this is actually the problem, go outside the vehicle with the hood open. Find the large brake fluid reservoir attached to a large round metal black (usually) canister on the driver's side of the firewall. (back of the engine compartment.) There is a large black rubber hose pushed into the top of the black canister, which is the vacuum line attached to the brake booster. Pull the rubber hose out of the grommet on the booster and stick your finger over the hose. Have someone start the tahoe. You will feel a considerable amount of vacuum pulling at your finger, and if you take your finger off the hose, the engine will stall. Also have someone step on the brakes while your finger is over the vacuum hose. If the noise is gone then you know the problem is in the brake booster.
Don't forget to re-attach the vacuum line to the brake booster. Failure to do this will result in the engine running very rough (if at all) and the brakes will require excessive effort to try to stop the tahoe.

Aug 05, 2011 | 1996 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Misfire when cold


I would have the codes read and see if it has any. If the car misfires enough you may go into limp mode to keep from damaging the cat converter. Check for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold tuning valve o-ring seals and the PCV hose for splits. The IMT seals are known to leak worse in cold weather due to shrinkage. Also dirty fuel injectors can cause this as well. If you can clean them with a professional style cleaner that requires the fuel pump to be disabled that is the best way to go. Of course all this is internet guessing without the codes being pulled but the vacuum leak check is easy. A lot of times you can hear them leaking and just putting your hand around the valve will change the sound.I just had a problem similar with my Audi and it was a hose that came off.

Feb 10, 2011 | 2002 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

My '04 Jag X-Type stutters at 3k rpm. There's a check engine light and codes P0174 and P1111. I replaced both IMT o-rings, PCV hose, and brake booster to manifold hose. The dealership couldn't figure it...


My Jag had the same problem. It was the upper and lower intake manifold seals. Buy the aftermarket FelPros and save big money. Change them yourself and save even more. It's not that hard.

Oct 21, 2010 | 2004 Jaguar X-Type

3 Answers

Brakes stay soft even though they have been bled and the brake booster replaced. It sounds like there is an air leak somewhere. I replaced the master cylinder as well then they were bled and still I have...


If there are no brake line/fitting leaks and no crimped or bent brake lines/hoses:
The key to my answer is the sound of air leaking...
Check the Brake Booster to the rear of the Master Cylinder.
1. Check the Vacuum Hose going to the Air Resonator with the one way check valve. Make sure the Vacuum Hose does not have cracks, holes, etc.; or does not collapse with the engine on. If there are any problems with the hose - replace the hose. With the engine on: remove the Hose for the Resonator and check for a vacuum. CAREFULLY: Remove the Resonator and reconnect it to the Vacuum Hose. Again check for the presence of a vacuum coming from the inside of the Resonator. If the Hose had a vacuum, but the Resonator does not = Replace the Resonator. If there is a Vacuum - Reconnect the Vacuum Hose and Resonator to the Brake Booster

2. Checking the Brake Booster Seals:
a. While the Engine is running: Push in the brake pedal. Stop the Engine while keeping the Brake Pedal pushed in.
(1) If there is a change = the Brake Pedal sinks to the floor: The Brake Booster has a Air Leak.
(2) If there is no change = GO TO TEST 2 (#3 below)

3. Turn the engine on and wait a couple of minutes and turn the engine off. Push in the Brake Pedal several times.
a. If the Pedal goes down farther the first time, but continues to rise = gets harder after the 2nd, 3rd time the Brake Booster is fine.
b. If the Pedal continue to go farther down on each push = the Brake Booster has a leak.

One seal in particular - located where the Brake Booster is attached to the Fire Wall - located behind the Brake Pedal Arm. Check the mounting bolts for tightness. With the engine on and a partner pushing on the Brake pedal: try to determine if that rear seal is where the air is leaking from.
Any Air Leak in the Brake Booster Main Seals = a new (remanufactured) Brake Booster must be purchased, as these are not repairable.

Let me know if this helped. or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

May 13, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Breeze

1 Answer

2002 vw passat....starts fine and drives fine....periodically stalls when braking for stop..this happens after a few miles of driving and is hard to get going again but will start and if reved up a bit I...


It appears that your brake booster system has a major vacuum leak which is causing the engine to go lean and stall. Check the hose between the intake manifold and the brake booster. It may be cracked or loose causing outside air to enter the hose when the brake is applied.

Jan 08, 2010 | Volkswagen Passat Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Brakes west very hard, now it's very tough to brake. Any thought's on what could cause this? Brake fluid seems to be good.


Hi,

Did you check the viscosity of the brake fluid? Also, please check the brake booster and the vaccumm hose. It might be leaking or even disconnected.

Regards,
HP

Aug 28, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

I need to find a vacuum hose diagram for a 1984 chevy caprice classic.


the vacuum hose should be linked from intake manifold to thebrake booster on brakes as well as to the side of the gearbox onthe vacuum canister. should any one leak there will be a misfire or no vavuum for brakes.

Feb 22, 2009 | 1984 Chevrolet Chevy

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