Vehicle starts normally. When the car reaches it's normal operating temperature the Check Engine light comes on and the car stalls. It's only when the engine is warm that this happens. I have to let the engine cool abit and then I can start the car.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If the sensor detects a problem, it sends a trouble code to the ECM and your "check engine" light will come on. IMO, your symptom sounds like "cold engine" issue. Myself, our 98 Toyota Rav4 will idle rough and engine stalls when put in drive, but the problem goes away when temperature shows the engine had warmed up to operating temperature. FYI the temperature sensor monitors the radiator coolant temperature. Normal engine temperature is when coolant reaches 120 degree fahrenheit. At around 130 to 140 degrees fahrenheit, the coolant thermostat opens to let radiator coolant flow from "bypass" mode to "enter radiator" mode. If it takes longer than 10 minutes for your engine to warm up, its possible the coolant thermostat is stuck in open "enter radiator" mode. When thermostat is close, coolant radiator bypass the radiator to speed up engine warm up, but if its stuck in open, it will take longer to warm up the engine. Another factor is ambient temperature. If its cold below 50 fahrenheit, it will take longer to warm up the engine.
Air can be purged. While your engine is cool remove radiator and reservoir caps. Place funnel in radiator. Turn heat to the highest position and start vehicle. Add coolant to radiator as needed while vehicle warms up. You should see bubbles coming out of radiator. Fill reservoir to between cold and hot fill lines. Replace caps when bubbling stops but before coolant temperature reaches normal operating temperature. Never remove the radiator cap until engine has fully cooled down.
Your thermostat sound like it is stuck open.
How it works is your thermostat is designed to be closed when your engine is cold.
After you start your car your engine coolant circulates in the engine block.
This helps the engine reach its normal running temperature.
When your engine reaches the normal running temperature the thermostat slowly opens allowing the coolant to circulate through your radiator. the radiator cools the coolant and maintains your engine temperature so your engine does not over heat.
If your thermostat is stuck open your coolant is not permitted to allow the engine to reach normal running temperature. Causing your low temperature reading.
Hope this helps please give feedback good luck FixYa
Your thermostat could be stuck in an open position. This will result in your vehicle being underheated. Typically, a thermostat opens only when an engine reaches a certain operating temperature. If a thermostat is stuck in the open position, radiator coolant flows into an engine before it reaches normal operating temperature. This prevents adequate engine warming and results in engine underheating. DIY repair costs: $5-$10
If your heater is not heating your vehicle adequately, it could be the result of a few different things:
1) Your thermostat could be stuck in an open position. This will result in your vehicle being underheated. Typically, a thermostat opens only when an engine reaches a certain operating temperature. If a thermostat is stuck in the open position, radiator coolant flows into an engine before it reaches normal operating temperature. This prevents adequate engine warming and results in engine underheating. DIY repair costs: $5-$10
2) Your radiator could be low on coolant. If this is found to be the cause, then you will have to inspect your coolant system for leaks. Depending upon what type of leak your vehicle has (if this is found to be the case), I would have this repair done by a shop unless it is something reasonable simple to fix like a water pump. Good Luck!
I assume you are talking about your engine temperature gauge reading? I had a problem with my 1996 Caravan thermostat (V6 3L). It can get stuck wide open and never allow the engine to operate at the specified temperature. On my vehicle, the thermostat has a metal tab that would prop the valve wide open if it failed.I think the thought of the designer was better to be stuck open than full closed I guess.Anyway, my vehicle temperature would never reach normal range with it stuck open.For my vehicle it is 195 F. This time of year, it would take a very long time before your engine would reach normal running temperature. The interior heater would also take a long time since the engine is also cooler. If your vehicle is newer it can also cause the engine check light to come on because this would affect the emission control systems and keep your engine in a cold engine mode loop... Not knowing a lot of details of your situation, I would check:
?·The gauge is working correctly and plugged into the temp sender near the thermostat.
?·You have the correct fluid level (Please be careful checking this)
?·Your heater core and engine radiator not clogged with sediment
?·Flush out your radiator and heater core
?·Replace your engine thermostat with the specified temperature range your vehicle requires (parts store tech can help you obtain the correct one) Good Luck.
Usually caused by a blown head gasket. Open the radiator cap and start the engine. Make sure the system is full of coolant and keep it full as the engine warms up. Once it's warm and the thermostat is open, allow a couple minutes for any air to bleed out. If bubbles continue to come up the radiator, your head gasket is blown. If you aren't getting bubbles, the problem may be a clogged radiator. Look to see if the coolant is flowing in the radiator. If you have more questions, please let us know.
You will not see any vacuum from the egr solenoid until the engine has reached normal operating temperature and certain other driving conditions have been reached (like throttle position and road speed).
If the engine runs rough when warmed up, check the CTS (coolant Temp sensor) when hot and cold and if no fault shows there, start checking input sensors for engine and cam position, engine timing, RPM etc.
If the EGR valve was leaking, it is only adding air to the exhaust stream and usually, manually opening the valve and blowing out the seat with compressed air should fix the issue.
This can also be an issue with clogged injectors. When the engine is cold, fuel enrichment supplies more then normal fuel amounts to encourage even running. When the engine warms up (normal operating temperature), fuel enrichment mode is turned off. If your injectors are clogged (even if only slightly) fuel starvation will cause rough running. Fuel enrichment overcomes the starvation of clogged injectors. Try adding a propriety injector cleaner to your fuel tank and watch for an improvement. If you do see an improvement, have your injectors cleaned and tested professionally. If you locate any other issues with engine sensors, replace them and ensure the new components are adjusted correctly if required..