Re: starting problems 1 out of 5 starts quiting and...
Check the connector to the coil pack/module. For wire connector on my 3.3L coil pack was not making a consistent connection and might have been corroded due to a bad connection. Also see if you are getting spark by pulling your front spark plug and grounding it to the cylinder head to see if you are getting spark all the time. Mine was hit n miss. I got lucky to have found this problem. If you are not getting any rpm on the tach what so ever during engine crank, change the crankshaft sensor. I changed the coil pack and crankshaft sensor prior to finding the connector was bad. Little over $100.00 but sensor was bad anyways.
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check for a bad fuel pump relay. One of the first signs of a failing DME/Fuel Pump is difficult hot starting. Quite often when the DME/Fuel Pump relay starts failing the car will start without problems when it is cold. However, when the car has been operated at normal operating temperature for a while, it will refuse to start. Its worth a try! (usually 30 minutes to 1 hour), the car will again start without problem. Is this the case! Good-Day!
The ECM on the jimmy, is located on the passenger side fender well by the overflow tank. But before replace the ECM, inspect the fuel pump and fuel pump relay. The ECM sends power to the fuel pump relay and if the relay has gone bad will cause the fuse to blow which will kill the the power to the ECM, in turn kill the electrical power to the ignition system.
Start by removing the fuel pump relay and swap it with another relay and see if the fuse will blow again, if is does. Disconnect the fuel sending unit wire harness at the frame and see if the fuse blows again, if the fuse stays good. Chances are your fuel pump has gone bad or the fuel filter is dirty/clogged causing your fuel pump to draw more amp and will need to be replaced or the wire harness from the frame to the sending unit has a short which is common on older Jimmy's.
My expediton would do this. I would be driving and it would just go dead and I would have to coast to the shoulder. My situation was a fuel pump relay switch located underneath by the spare tire. Problem was it corroded away from road salt and for a while did it intermittently. Ford changed the relay to have a protective shielding on it to prevent this from happening again but it was only a 70 dollar item as I recall.
You could have a bad fuel pump relay switch. The fuel pump
relay switch gets the fuel pump running in the vehicle during the start
cycle. The terms fuel pump relay and fuel pump relay switch are used
interchangeably. The fuel pump relay begins its job when the automobile
operator turns to the ignition on, but before the motor is actually
running. At that point, the fuel pump relay in some cars sends a signal
to the ignition switch, which in turn sends a signal to the fuel pump
to turn on. Others fuel pump relays have actual circuitry inside of
them that receive the ignition signal and directly signal the fuel pump
I have the same problem with my bimmer.To find out if the fuel pump problem take fuel pump out and get something kinda nock on the pump put it back in and start the car. It will run but not 1 or 2 days it will die again. You know that mean.Replace the pump.
Been having the same problem. Ended up replacing the grey wire from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump. The grey wire leaves the relay and then branches in two. One wire goes to the ECM to tell it the fuel pump has power. The other goes to the fuel pump.