Question about 1993 Mazda 626

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Brake bleeding i changed the caliper on the front driver side an then rehn tried to build pressure an there is no sign of an brake fluid even trying to go to the brake caliper. the passsenger side front has fuild running when i check the bleeder screw. i'm stumped. The hose was never removed from the vehicle and i have checked for any problems with the brake line being twisted or blocked but to no avail. all i did was just remove the old caliper an place a new one on an then try to pump the brakes so that i would be able to bleed the line but for some reason there is no pressure in that line at all.

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  • dyhisreal Dec 18, 2008

    yes i have tried disconnecting the hose an i have no fluid at all running through the brake line for the front driver side an there is no pressure for the rear drum (passenger side) nor the driver side. i have tried pumping the brakes for hours an there is no build in pressure. an when you mean collapsed what do you mean????? I really appreciate you helping me with this.

  • stevieger May 11, 2010




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Your line is clolapsed

Posted on Dec 18, 2008


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1999 Dodge Neon / front callipers, front brakes, rotors in front, and driver side knuckle.

things that have to be checked during a brake replacement process
the caliper pistons have to move back easily when fitting new pads
the caliper body has to move freely on the mounting pins to allow the centralization on the disc rotor
the brake bleeder nipple has to be opened when pushing the pistons back as the displaced fluid build sup pressure in the reservoir
check that the fluid level in the reservoir is not above the full line
check the brake master cylinder is operational and compensating ports are not blocked
basically the problems is that the pads are in contact with the disc and that is generating heat. that heat expands the brake fluid that has to be allowed to flow back to the reservoir
if the expansion of fluid is prevented either by over full reservoir or faulty mastery cylinder preventing the free flow back to the reservoir then the expansion applies the pad more tightly to the disc which in turns creates more heat and more expansion of the fluid
At this point and before you do anything else ,my steps would be to flush the system out using metholated spirits by filling the reservoir and then bleeding each wheel until clear fluid came out
when this is accomplished any black junk in the system is removed
fill the reservoir with new brake fluid and repeat the bleeding process until only brake fluid comes out
Metholated spirits is compatible with brake fluids and is recommended for the purpose
having cleaned out the system and ensured the free movement of the calipers on the mounting pins the pads should be in light contact with the discs and hubs should spin free after brakes are applied and released
In practice pads always touch the disc as there is no method of pulling the ads back and it is the air friction between pad and spinning disc that gives a minute clearance when travelling and if that ability is not allowed then the problems that you have will result

Oct 12, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear passenger brake dosen't work

Are there two brake fluid reservoirs? And are both full? This would be a split-diagonal brake system-front driver and rear passenger are one brake system. Front passenger and rear driver are the other system. You have the one system working-the front passenger and rear driver side works. You will have to keep bleeding the rear passenger side and the front driver side-always start farthest from the master cylinder, but if that wheel just won't bleed air out, make sure the driver front is working and bleeds good. If all else fails, there are pressure bleeder kits available, I don't know the cost, but they work great. They are also a one man bleeding job, as I understand.

Dec 10, 2013 | 2000 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer


There are several problems. Your caliper could be stuck and that is a problem. You probably have a rubber brake hose that is clogged up internally and restricting the flow of fluid, a second problem.
The internal rubber hose can form flaps which close off the flow of fluid. You only have pressure in 1 direction so it is easier to have a stuck caliper because the fluid will trap in the caliper and refuse to return to the Master cylinder.
But this must really be blocked or the safety valve has shut off the diagonal lockout for the ABS. For safety when fluid pressure is lost, a valve shifts and tries to keep a front and a rear brake diagonally supplied with fluid.
What you need to try before giving up on the current project is bleed your brakes starting from the longest rear line and work your way forward with the last line being the shortest.
You may discover that you now have fluid bleeding from the problem caliper. If so, part of the problem was the safety valve killed the fluid flow. You still have a bad rubber line, and possibly a stuck caliper, but now you may have fluid flow.
If I were you, I would buy a rubber brake line and change it before bleeding the system. Then you can see if the caliper is working or not. Rubber lines are cheap compared to most parts.
By bleeding the lines as I recommend, you stand a chance of centering the safety valve and solving part of your problems. If a rear line diagonal to the problem front caliper is also dry, then the safety valve was tripped.
With the rubber brake line removed, you should be able to compress the problem caliper with ease; if not, it is stuck and should be replaced.
At this point, I should mention the ABS box. Pressure coming from the box can be measured as well as Master cylinder pressure going to the box. Hydraulic gauges would be necessary. It would be the final explanation to your problems should the easier solutions fail. Testing price versus component price should be considered.
You will restore fluid flow and be able to test your stuck caliper using what I gave you.

Jun 02, 2013 | 1998 Mercury Mystique

1 Answer

98 Plymouth voyager brake issues

You never replace only one caliper

You do both sides

Bleeders are mounted to top of caliper

Have a helper in drivers seat to slowly
press brake pedal as you open & close

Start at back & do all 4 corners

The master takes care of it's self

Feb 26, 2013 | 1998 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Just changed the brake booster and the driver side caliper and now no fluid comes out when I try to bleed the caliper. The rear brakes bled OK, bu t there still is no pedal. Does the engine need to

could need a master cylinder,start at front line on master cylinder, loosen it slowly with someone pushing on brake pedal lightly.That will let u know if there is pressure to the front calipers.

Oct 31, 2012 | Chrysler LeBaron Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1981 Silverado front driver side brake cant be bled.

Take the bleed screw out and clean it, it may be packed with dirt and plugged up. Keep trying to bleed till you get all the air out, and fluid has a steady stream out the bleed valve. If all else fails, rent or buy a pressure bleeding device that forces brake fluid into the lines

May 23, 2012 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front brakes are not releasing

okay did you pressure test your brakes??? jack up front have some one press pedal try to turn wheel then when pedal is released tire should turn if not wait 1-2 minutes then try to turn the wheel with no body pressing the pedal and if it does turn then I would be replacing flex hose!!! fact: if caliper is seized it will not turn !these flex hoses build rust under the steel fastener bracket that is moulded around the hose then slowly over times closes it off as rust builds and slowly closes it off to a pin hole passage i have changed thousands of these over the years! yours will probably be the same! brake fluid has no problem making it to the caliper and bleeder it is when you release the brake the applied pressure is gone and now it take a couple of minute or seconds to slowly return!!!!! I know this will help!!!!

Jan 24, 2009 | 1992 Chrysler Lebaron

3 Answers

Have a 97 sunfire put new caliper went bleed them no problem on passanger side but no fluid come out when bleeding brakes drivers side front

Do you have someone there that can Pump the Brake Pedal while you Bleed that Side? That is what you need to do.

Jan 16, 2009 | Pontiac Sunfire Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No brake line pressure on 1 caliper after replacing caliper

I suspect you may have twisted the hose on re assembly. The other possibility is that the bleed nipple is choked with dirt and rust. Remove it completely and see if the fluid starts to run out. If so replace nipple or clean out.

Cheers John

Dec 17, 2008 | 1993 Mazda 626

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