1995 bonnieville SSEi 3.8 / temp gauge won't go above about 150
When the car is sitting idle, the temp gauge will go to about the normal point, but then after running awhile it goes back down (weird, not hotter, but colder!) after awhile a dash warning lamp eventually comes on that says 'check' with what appears to be an egine icon (upper left hand corner). In addition to this problem, I also need to replace right rear wheel bearings. Would this cause the anti-lock ABS brake warning indicator to come on and stay on? The 'traction off' indicator is always on and I don't seem to have any control over it being on or off.
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If your coolant overflow is bubbling then regardless of what your gauge says you are having overheating issues. If your coolant is missing with no aparent leaks then you need to check your oil for a milky consistency and apearance which would most likely point to a blown head gasket. This would also explain overheating. Hope this helps
Your going to have to check that the compressor is turning the clutch (center of the pulley) get a set of A/C gauges and check for any freon in the system (static test) high pressure side should read above 200 psi, remove the low pressure cut out switch electrical connector and place a jumper wire between the two wires, this should activate the compressor, the gauges will now tell you how much freon is in the system, the high side needs to read 150 PSI to activate the cooling fans, place a temp gauge in the cener inside vent, place the fan on low, temp coming out of the vent should read around 45-50 at idle, now if you have to add freon that means you have a leak, put dye in the system, and check for leaks.
a few things to check before we condemn it as a leaking head gasket(pressurising water out). First check the radiator cap seal,no cracks and that it takes some pressure to push the spring loaded part down. Does both the top and lower radiator hose get hot as temp gets to normal(where thermostat should be open).if not,the thermostat may be a faulty one or has slipped out of seat as the cover was bolted back down onto it.(temperature will differ either side of it).I have had some of these come in with part of the waterpump impellor rotted away.same symptom of one hot and one cold hose,and water doesnt flow inside radiator with cap off(ensure this is not removed if engine is hot)and temp where the thermo should be open. Possibly the radiator needs sending out for the top or side tank to be removed and each tube cleaned out.this is a lot more effective than trying to reverse flush with water only. But if temp is normal these areas should be fine. Do the hoses swell with pressure and become hard to squeeze in a short time?this could reveal a leaking head gasket and should be tested with a teekay type tester for the presence of cylinder gases in cooling system. Do the fan(s) come on if sitting idling at normal temp for 5-10mins?water can be pushed out if they dont come on or their cut in/out temp is incorrect.hope this helps. let me know some times re when it pushes water out,do you hear a boiling sound from inside engine or radiator when this happens,any other info that may help diagnose.
Check coolant level, and possibly replace thermostat. When a thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, coolant does not circulate thru motor. Gauge stays midrange when driving, because motor is being cooled by air and or the fan. If car seems to operate completely normal, then the gauge is faulty.
You will need to Change your Thermostat. A bad Thermostat will cause the Overheat Problem as Stated above. Also, Check you Coolant Level, and see if the Water Pump is Pumping Water through the Radiator. Please Rate my Response, I need all the Help that I can Get! Thanks!
on GM vehicles they still use clutch fans and when sitting at an idle for a while the fan is not pulling enough air through the radiator and condensor so therefor the a/c starts to put out warmer air and the coolant temp. will rise a little bit. You could try replaceing the fan clucth and see if that helps any.