Question about 2002 Suzuki XL-7

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Heat in vehicle

When I let my vehicle set for a while and warm up, after that the heat does not stay hot, but turns cool, this happened on 12/16/08 and on 12/16/08 that evening my service engine light came on. I have had my car checked for winterization. What is the problem

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The heater core may have gone

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Car runs great when cold, terrible when warm or hot?


First things first. "Heat Soak" generally happens when the vehicle is driven very hard before it is shut down, and even then usually only shows up on the ensuing start. This is not to say it is impossible that is your problem, it is just to say I believe it is something in the ignition system. The ignition system is the most likely to become affected after the vehicle has warmed up.

Are there any codes in the computer and does the engine light flicker or stay on steady when this occurs?

Mar 23, 2014 | 1993 Buick Roadmaster

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Tips for operating Air conditioning system on Toyota Hilux and someother...


To cool off your Toyota after it has been parked in the hot sun, drive with the windows open for a few minutes. This vents the hot air, allowing the air conditioning to cool the interior more quickly.

Make sure the air intake grilles in front of the windshield are not blocked (by leaves or snow, for example).

On humid, do not blow cold air on the windshield. The windshield could fog up because of the difference in air temperature on the inside and outside of the windshield.

Keep the area under the front seats clear to allow air to circulate throughout the vehicle.

On cold days, set the fan speed to high for a minute to help clear the intake ducts of snow or moisture. This can reduce the amount of fogging on the windows.

When driving on dusty roads, close all windows. If dust thrown up b the vehicle is still drawn into the vehicle after closing the windows, it is recommended that the in intake be set to FRESH and the fan speed to any setting except "OFF".

If following another vehicle on a dusty road, or driving in windy and dusty conditions, it is recommended that the air intake be temporarily set to RECIRCULATE, which will close off the outside passage and prevent outside air and dust from entering the vehicle interior.

HEATING

For best results, set controls to;
Fan speed ---- Any setting except "OFF"
Temperature----Towards WARM (red zone)
Air intake ---- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow ---- FLOOR
Air conditioning ---- OFF

For quick heating, select recirculated air for a few minutes. To keep the windows from fogging, select fresh after the vehicle has been warmed.

Press the "A/C" button on for dehumidified heating.

Choose floor/windshield air flow to heat the voltage interior while defrosting or defogging the windshield.

AIR CONDITIONING

For best results, set controls to;

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards COLD (blue zone)
Air intake --- (outside air)
Air flow --- PANEL
Air conditioning --- ON

For quick cooling, move the air intake selector to recirculate for a few minutes.

VENTILATION

For best results, set controls to;

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards COLD (blue zone)
Air intake --- (outside air)
Air flow --- PANEL
Air conditioning --- ON

DEFOGGING

The inside of the windshield

For best results, set controls to:

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards WARM (red zone) to heat; COLD (blue zone) to cool
Air intake --- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow --- WINDSHIELD
Air conditioning --- ON

The outside of the windshield

For best results, set controls to:

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards WARM (red zone)
Air intake --- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow --- WINDSHIELD
Air conditioning --- OFF

On humid days, do not blow cold air on the windshield. The windshield could fog up because of the difference in air temperature on the inside and outside of the windshield.

DEFROSTING

The outside of the windshield

For best results, set controls to:

Fan speed --- Any setting except 'OFF"
Temperature --- Towards WARM (red zone)
Air intake --- FRESH (outside air)
Air flow --- WINDSHIELD
Air conditioning --- OFF

To heat the vehicle interior while defrosting the windshield, choose floor/windshield air flow.

on Feb 14, 2011 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

Tip

Climate control settings,on all vehicles


When using the ac on a hot summer day,or a mild spring day,the compressor runs all the time.If you set it to low,and turn the temp to cold or toward the warmer side,lets say cool,then the ac compressor runs also,it just cycles,on,and off.No matter what setting you are using on your ac control,the ac compressor stays on,using fuel.Get the most out of your ac,while it uses your fuel,to keep you comfortable.All vehicles have a MAX setting,or a recirculate setting.Always use this setting.I say,always use this setting,not only that,but use this setting.I stress this because you are pulling in air ,from the out side,that is warming the evaporator,and making the ac work harder to give you comfort.In the hot ,hot summer,the settings MAX,and recirculate,keep the air that is in the vehicle,in the vehicle.It recirculates the air,instead of bringing hot air inside the vehicle ,and bringing the temp,up,to a warmer temp.A lot of people don`t even know that this is on the control,or don`t know what it is for.Some times the recirculate button,or dial,will have a picture that looks like a C,but squared off at the corners.So folks,get more out of your vehicles cooling and heat system.Yes ,this will work on heat also,maybe not defrost,but on some cars,it will work.

on Dec 08, 2009 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 Buick LeSabre- the blower turns on but no heat. There is coolant.. and ideas?


is the vehicle having any cooling issues? I.E. overheating? you could have a air pocket and the system needs to be bleed or once vehicle warms up check upper and lower radiator hose to see if one is hot and one is cold they both should be hot if u have proper circulation. did you ever have heat? when did this start do you have any check engine lights

Jan 28, 2014 | Buick LeSabre Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Air pockets in radiator


Air can be purged. While your engine is cool remove radiator and reservoir caps. Place funnel in radiator. Turn heat to the highest position and start vehicle. Add coolant to radiator as needed while vehicle warms up. You should see bubbles coming out of radiator. Fill reservoir to between cold and hot fill lines. Replace caps when bubbling stops but before coolant temperature reaches normal operating temperature. Never remove the radiator cap until engine has fully cooled down.

Jan 15, 2013 | 2008 Nissan Frontier

1 Answer

I have a 2006 PT cruiser and the cooling fan will not turn off


on a lot of vehicles, the electric fan cooling the radiator will stay on when the car is turned off. this is normal and happens when the senser tells the fan that the engine is hot and needs cooling. if it stays on for prolonged periods, there is a problem somewhere. should cool and turn off automatically. R

Aug 25, 2012 | 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Rear vents blow out hot air when a/c is on


Keep this principle in mind: Heat, flows INTO cold... When you hold an ice cube in your hand, your hand gets cold because the heat from your hand is flowing INTO the clod ice cube, NOT because the cold is flowing into your hand.

On this particular vehicle (like many modern vehicles), hot water from the engine flows through the heater core at all times, even when you have the A/C on or when you have nothing (A/C, heat or vent) on. The system uses a door that closes down over the air opening to the heater core to keep you from feeling warm/hot air when it is not desired. The reason(s) you feel that the vent air is warm even when the outside temperature is somewhat cool is/could be caused by the following:

First, although as mentioned above, the heater core is restricted from receiving air when you are not commanding heat by the control panel, the heater core ultimately ends up as warm as the engine temperature. This is generally somewhere around 200 degrees F. Because all the air coming out of your vent(s) must pass over the door that restricts air over the heater core, and because the heater core gets so hot, some of that heat is picked up by air passing over the hot door even though it is closed.

Second, the door that restricts airflow from passing over the heater core has a seal around it. After a period of time this rubber (or usually felt) seal deteriorates, allowing some air to actually pass over the heater core. Since the core is hot all the time, some of the air gets heat loaded, producing warmed air.

Third, the door is operated by (in the case of your vehicle) an electric motor which responds gradually/proportionately to the setting you select on the temperature dial. If the motor gets out of calibration (can happen from time to time), if the control head has a 'glitch' and sends an incorrect signal (chronically, usually), or if the electric motor (called an actuator and contains its own little electronic 'brain') becomes faulty, the door may not be closing completely. This symptom can also be caused by a problem with the door itself, where the door gets stuck due to warping of the plastic case, a foreign object preventing it from closing (usually a pen or toy dropped into a vent or defrost opening), or a broken or cracked door hinge.

Last, the vent intake opening, where the 'fresh' air comes into the car on the 'vent' setting, is located just below the windshield on the passenger side. This opening receives its air directly off of the sun-baked, engine-heated hood and because of this the air is never as cool as outside air even on a cooler night.

I hope this answers your question. Many domestic vehicle manufacturers have begun installing heater control valves on their vehicles once again as they nearly all used to have. Note that the fix for most everything I have mentioned here requires removal of the dash of the vehicle or replacement of the control head and therefore is in many cases not worth the investment if it is not an extreme problem (for example, unless the system is stuck on full heat in the middle of summer. Additionally, remember that, if you so desire, manual shutoff valves can be placed in the heater hose lines (please consult a qualified mechanic as water from a vehicle can and will scald and burn you!), allowing you to manually shut off the flow of water into the heater core, thus reducing some of the heat (Readers note that certain foreign vehicles REQUIRE water flow through the heater core at all times for engine cooling and are not candidates for this procedure!).


Parts Of BMW.

May 30, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 1996 Dodge Intrepid, 3.5 liter has an interior heat issue. When the engine is warm and I turn on the heat (with the cool/warm lever on the warmest setting) the air will be warm, then cool, warm then...


Hi,
put your hand on the heater hoses going into the cabin. Carefully. they should both be hot. If so, you have decent circulation. Does your car have a temperature gauge? When this happens, is the temp normal? Is the check engine light on? You may have a failing thermostat. Sticking open at times.

Jan 05, 2011 | 1996 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

I have a 2002 Mercury Sable 3.0. I noticed when


The clicking noise is the motor for the "blend door". The heater core and the air conditioning side share the same ducting. When you move the knob a small motor moves the door letting the respective hot or cool flow happen.
The heater core is probably blocked. The engineers at Ford have the coolant hoses bypassing the core with a WYE at the firewall. The coolant takes the path of least resistance and stops FLUSHING the heater core and it eventually clogs.

Oct 12, 2009 | 2001 Mercury Sable

2 Answers

2005 Pathfinder Heat Flow problem


I am having/had the same problem. My rear heater has not worked the last 2 winters, still trying to figure that one out. But I think I solved the front heat problem myself. The heater was blowing cold air while idling and hot air when the car was moving.

I jacked up the front of the vehicle, took the cap off of the reserve tank for the radiator, turned the car on and ran the heat (AC off) for 15 minutes. This is supposed to release any air bubbles in the coolant system and I did see air bubbles emerge as I was watching (this might be normal occurance, I'm far from a mechanical expert). Anyway, this did not immediately solve the problem, still blowing cold air as it sat there idling after 15 minutes. Dejected, I put the cap back on, lowered the vehicle and resigned myself to taking it to a dealer.

But a funny thing happened the next day, the coolant level was a lower (no leaks on the floor) so I filled up, and sure enough, when I started the car and let it warm up a little, hot air started coming out of the heater!!!

As far as my wife knows, I fixed the problem for the price of a bottle of coolant, so I am a hero...but at first I thought it didn't work. Here we are a month later and still blowing warm air and haven't had to replace any more coolant...the internet is a wonderful thing!

Hope this works for you, and I hope I can figure out my rear heater problem as well.

Jan 22, 2009 | 2006 Nissan Pathfinder

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