My battery drains overnight. When I jump it, it will not stay running after I remove jumper cables. Also, the radio comes on by itself. If I pull the radio fuse, what else will be off? Do I have a short in radio, badalternator, bad battery?
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Re: Battery drains overnight
You seem to have more than 1 problem. First the alternator is not working efficiently need to be replaced. Secondly the battery doesn't seem to hold a charge. More than likely needs to be replaced. About the drain if there is a drain and you want to know where it is follow these simple steps.
1. Get a regular test light remove negative battery lead and connect clip on end of tester to the battery cable and the point end to the negative pole on the battery.
2. With everything off and all doors and all lights off the test light should be out.
Open a door or turn on lights any thing that will need power from the battery and tester should light up.
Note: I when everything is off the tester is light go to fuse boxes (REMEMBER ALL DOORS HAVE TO CLOSED WHEN DOING THIS, ANYTHING THAT DRAWS POWER MUST ALSO BE OFF VERY IMPORTANT) remove fuses one at a time when you take it out if the light is still on replace immediately and move on to the next and so on. When you pull the fuse of where the drain is coming from the test light will go out. BINGO you have found the source of your drain. Old good secret I learned years ago in Mechanical School. Good Luck and get in contact if you need more help. If this takes care of your problem just leave me a FIXYA thanks.
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That red light is on many vehicles and does not drain a battery that fast. You probably have another draw on the system. I recently had a car that the battery would go down in a few days, found out it was coming from the Onstar system malfunctioning.
Allfordmustangs.com has an article if you Web search your car with fuse 27 and 32 as part of the search. It blames the GEM as part of the problem(wiper) and also points out that the radio has several power feeds. Fuse 27 is hot all the time, but fuse 32 is only hot in ACC or Run. So as long as you can test fuse 32 to be hot in only Acc or Run, it should not drain the battery in Off position. You might want to test the ignition switch to verify it is really turned off.
The all mustangs article had different symptoms, as you did not indicate whether the fuses popped.
The wiper motor is suppose to derail and turn off. If you can unplug the wiper motor overnight and the battery stays up, you would know that it is either the wiper motor or wiper control. The radio is on the other fuse circuit. But whether the radio can drain a battery in a short time, you need to measure draw, but if the fuse pops, the battery should stay up. Again, disconnecting a circuit like a radio, and then having the battery stay up, would point to the radio circuit being at fault.
You haven't given a lot of information to go on and I don't really get what you mean when you say the battery is dead even when the engine isn't running.
Have you had the battery tested? Most any parts store or repair shop can test a battery for you and tell you if it's good, bad, or just needs charging.
If the battery checks out okay poor connections at your battery could be the problem or the cables themselves could be so corroded that they no longer are capable of flowing current. If there is corrosion on your battery terminals that is a place to start. Use baking soda and water to clean the clamps and posts (you'll want to remove them for this), also a wire brush for tough spots.
Does the battery go dead after a few days or overnight? If after a few hours or overnight then something is most likely draining the battery. Do you have to jump start your car after it sits for a few hours? If so then look for dome or glove or trunk lights being left on, brake lights sticking on, aftermarket stereo or alarm wiring issues, or other items staying on after the car is turned off that would drain the battery. Bad door or trunk switches for the dome lights can cause the lights to stay on.
You can test for ignition off draw with the right testers to see if it's within specs. You could also pull the IOD fuse in the block under the hood to see if that stops the battery from going dead overnight.
If it goes dead over the course of several days then a more likely suspect might be the charging system.
But these are all just general ideas. We need more specific information to really hone in on any one area. But the first thing to do is get that battery checked and given a clean bill of health.
Disconnect the battery cables and inspect for contact corrosion, if present the alternator is not charging the car's battery because of a poor electrical cable connection. Next mix a solution of one part baking soda to three parts tap water and pour over both the cables and the battery contacts, allow the baking soda to dissolve the corrosion, once the fizzing has stopped, pour more tap water to clean remaining corrosion, dry with a paper towel and reconnect cables tightly to the battery.
First jumpering the fan motor to the battery is a bad idea. The fan will always run even if the vehicle is not running. The fan probably draws enough current to drain your battery overnight. To find the wiring diagram you may need to buy a chilton or haynes manual. If you know somebody who works for a ford or mercury dealer they may be able to get you a schematic.
some alternators need battery voltage to stay running and after killing a battery if may not recover and you will need to replace it then i would check the fuses its posible that when first jumped the cable where on backwards
have you replaced the battery? the car draws it's electricity from the battery, then the alternator replaces the charge to the battery. if the battery is shot and will no longer hold a charge the car will not stay running once you remove the charge as in removing the jumper cables
No. It is just the battery. If the alternator was bad then the engine would not stay running when you removed the jumper cables. The alternator is what is supplying power to keep you running. So just replace the battery and you will be good to go!
OK the battery in good charge should be at 12.5 volts ( as measured with a voltmeter across the terminals) When the engine is running you should expect the reading to be about 14 volts. Put the lights on ( a load on the battery) and the voltage can go as high as 14.5v.
Switch everything off (I mean everything..radio etc) and disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. Now put the meter in ammeter mode and measure the current between the negative terminal and the cable that is now disconnected. It should be really very low current (milliamps at most), switch on the lights to show ourself what that current drain looks like. If the residual current looks significant take out each fuse in turn and return it noting on pen and paper any drop in current when the fuse is out. This process will identify the circuit that is draining the battery. Check the wires and junctions in this circuit for shorts etc. If its lights try removing bulbs until the current drain stops If possible leave the fuse out over night on this circuit and see if this effects the battery's ability to charge and stay charged.
The ignition key will not come out of the ignition cylinder with a bad battery. There are jump post to the battery so you do not have to remove the battery cover to jump the car. Once you open the engine hood, look at the battery cover and look for the positive jump post, it will be marked and the ground will be anywhere you can ground the jumper cable in the engine bay. Once you have the engine running or you connected the jumper cables with the other car running, you can remove the key's from the ignition. Good luck and take care not to damage the pass lock system in your ignition lock.