Question about 1994 Mazda 2WD B Series Pickup

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Front wheels are not locking in 4wd

1991 mazda b2600i, put in 4wd the front driveshaft is in gear but front wheels will not pull. I was told there is a solinoid on passenger side fender to check that it is plugged in, i have found nothing unplugged. I know nothing about this i have always had manual hubs. THANKS for any help, Billy

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  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    HAD THE CODES CHECKED AND IT SAID THE FRONT WHEELS ARE LOCKING IN BUT WILL NOT PULL.

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The cam assembly in the autolocking hubs is sheared off smooth and needs to b replaced i just did that vary job today

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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How to pull right rotor off a B2600 mazda 4x4


Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support Page 4 - Fixya

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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer 5 speed six cylinder 4 wheel drive feels like when I put on a gas is losing powers ... How to pull right rotor off a B2600 mazda 4x4.

Rebuilding Mazda B2600I 4x4 pickup - YouTube



Dec 25, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

WHY DOESNT MY 4WD WORK


Sounds like you have snapped the Pin in the front pumpkin or a gear has broken. Is their any clunking up front when in 2wd?

Feb 16, 2015 | 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer

1 Answer

Why does my 4 wheel drive not work all the time?


Elaine,

not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????



first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system



here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.



quote ford with comments.



What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)



2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled



In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.



What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

Jul 04, 2014 | 2003 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

4wd not engaging. Check actuator and seems to working properly. Jacked front end up and and when in 4wd the front tires spin freely. Any suggestions?


Does the driveshaft for the front wheels turn when in 4wd? The actuater might work but the diff lock for the front wheels might have broken. If the front driveshaft does not turn when in 4wd, the transfer case might be the problem.

Jan 02, 2014 | 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

My 1991 Mazda b2600i doesn't seem to be getting


Have a fuel pressure test done on the fuel manifold to check for pump, filter and fuel regulator problems. Run fault codes to check for evap canister solenoid problems

Sep 14, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front differential?


Sounds like the transfer case is not engaging into 4wd. It has a solenoid or actuator, but it could be damaged inside too.

Jul 03, 2013 | 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

3 Answers

4wheel drive wont engage


First, start checking the fuses an there is also an electrial activaced switch at the transmission or transfer case that may be bad.

95-96
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4auto, 4low.

First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.
Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels may or may not turn. Do not be alarmed if they don't turn. This is normal for your vehicle.
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle. Place your foot firmly on the brakes, place the transmission in NEUTRAL, engage 4low, then place the vehicle back in park. DO NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR!! The lurch as the transmission engages could cause the vehicle to lurch and potentially fall off the jack stands.**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. This could be due to a mechanical problem with the diff, or a failure of the center axle disconnect to engage the passenger side axle shaft. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.

Troubleshooting the CAD on a 95-96 is a bit more involved than I want to get into here, and the problems can vary widely. This'll get you started.


97-01 4-door and 96-00 Sports
Your control knob should say 4auto, 4high, 4low.
First, we need to narrow it down to a transfer case issue, or a front axle issue.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. This could be due to a mechanical issue with the transfer case itself, or an electrical gremlin with the control system. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If both wheels spin in opposite directions, then the front axle *should* be properly engaged. Take it for a test drive (after safely lowering it to the ground, of course). If the front wheels do not spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


'01-'03 Sport and '01-'05 Sport Trac
Your control knob should say 2wd, 4high, 4low

The transfer case in these trucks functions essentially like the 1st-gens' 13-54 t-case. (i.e. it uses a lockup collar engaged by the transfer case shift motor) The troubleshooting procedure is very similar, but you don't need to worry about hubs or center-axle disconnects engaging.

Step 1) Jack up the front end and place it securely on jack stands.
Step 2) Verify that the front driveshaft turns by hand. When turning the front driveshaft by hand, the front wheels should turn. (If only one turns, don't be alarmed. One wheel sometimes has more resistance in the brakes, bearings, or CV joints. This is normal)
Step 3) Start the vehicle and let it idle in PARK. Engage 4high. DO NOT PUT THE VEHICLE IN GEAR!!! Crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front driveshaft.
**If you can turn the front driveshaft, the transfer case is not locking. The shift motor could be falsely reading an incorrect t-case position, or it could be a mechanical issue with the case itself. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.
**If the front driveshaft does not turn, the transfer case is locking properly and we need to continue searching.
Step 4) With the front wheels in the air, engine idling in PARK, spin one front wheel. The other wheel should spin the opposite direction. If it does, the system should be properly engaged. Safely lower the vehicle to the ground and take it for a test drive. If the wheels do NOT spin in opposite directions, there is a problem with the front differential or axle. Start a new thread with the results of your checks, and we'll go from there.


Keep us updated.

Dec 16, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Need to change cv outer boot on mazda ba 94 model.


it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
  1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).




  1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.




  1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).




  1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.




  1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.




  1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.




  1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.

    Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
  1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.




  1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
  1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.




  1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
  1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).




  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.




  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
    If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
  1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323

2 Answers

Transfer case wont engage


shift into 4wd and move truck a couple of feet.
if light is still off, park truck block the wheels set the park brake jack right front wheel and try to hand spin the wheel if wheel doesn't turn 4x4 is functioning properly but there is a wiring problem use an ohmmeter to check the 4x4 switch wiring fuse and bulb
if wheel turns freely the front axle or transfer case is not engaged
attempt to hand spin the front driveshft if the driveshaft will spin the transfer case is not engaged check the transfer case shift linkage, problem is in linkage or transfer case internals
if the driveshaft will not spin the transfer case is engaged properly
with trnsmission in neutral or park start engine measure vacuum on the two vac lines at front axle shift motor . one line should have approx 20" vacuum. other line should have none
if no vacuum measured look for vac leak or bad vac switch
if both lines have vac look for a bad vac swithc or ruptured cad actuator diaphragm
if one line has 20" +- VAC
move transfer case lever to 2wd measure vac again lines should have swapped vac signals
if no vac switch bad or 4wd shift likage needs adjusting
if yes vac motor bad or stuck or shift fork stuck
remove vac shift motor from the axle attach vac lines to shift motor engage disengage 4wd
does shift motor plunger move at least 1/2 inch
no shift motor bad
yes check axle shift fork and vac motor for binging

Jan 27, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Ram

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