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Re: screw of thermostat hold is broken
Well it's got to come out- here's how; First and foremost, if you can get at the old bolt, fashion a tool of sorts and simply back it out. If the bolt sheared right at the same level as the head, you should be able to use a tool called an "easy out". This "reverse" drill bit is applied to the offending old bolt, drilled into, and when the bit begins to "drag" it unscrews out of the head. Presto!
Now...When you get that new bolt and clean everything up, assemble everything back the way it should be and then, ONLY USE 14-20 FT.LBS to torque those new bolts, okay? Anything more and you're taunting trouble......accordianman
Is their anything sticking out that you can get a hold of ?
if their is then use a wire brush to clean the area up with then spray some releasing spray ( just a bit ) using a very light hammer gently tap the top of the piece you can see , then get some vice grips and grip the bit you can see gently move left and right this may losen the stud , if not , it will need to be drilled and tapped ,
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Screw needs to clamp the fuse tightly to the metal terminal and so broken screw must be removed and replaced with a screw that will do that job. Drilling the broken screw out and retapping the thread is what is needed. JB Weld can be used to fill an oversized hole and then drilled and tapped to the original size.
Locate the thermostat housing and remove the two screws that hold it down. Replace the stat you have in there making sure you put replacement in right side up and then reassemble the housing making sure that it is tight with no leaks.
Look for a hose extending from the top of the radiator to a round housing atop the engine. Removal of the housing cap screws will reveal the thermostat. Note the mounting orientation of the thermostat to avoid installing the replacement upside down. Remove the old thermostat and gasket. You may have to scrape the old gasket off. Place the replacement gasket and thermostat in position and reinstall the housing cap screws and tighten securely. Start your Chevy and check for leaks..
If there's no bleeder screw on the thermostat housing, remove thermostat housing cap and thermostat. Then fill directly in thermo- hole till full. Replace thermostat gasket and cap, hose etc.. Top off radiator. Most newer vehicles have a bleeder screw positioned after the thermostat. Good luck
You can replace it. There are several types of screw extractors out there. They usually come with a drill bit for the correct size extractor. You will need to find out what size stud it is. Once you have determined that chose the appropriate size drill bit and extractor. Lowes or home depot carry them. Drill into the center of the broken stud. Be careful not to drill too deep as you might damage the thermostat housing. Once you have drill into the stud use the extractor to remove the broken stud.
Napa auto parts or autozone should carry the stud size and length that you need. Purchase a stud and 2 plain nuts that match the thread of the stud. The nuts will be used to install the stud. Thread The stud into the thermostat housing. Once it is tight by hand stop. Thread the first plain nut onto the stud far enough so that you can get the second nut onto the stud and have a thread or two sticking out of the second nut. Once the two nuts are on the stud hold the first nut with a wrench and tighten the second nut tight against it. This will allow you to finish installing the stud. Once the nuts are tightened together, use a wrench (on the second nut only) to run the stud down into the thermostat housing. Do not overtighten the stud as you may crack the housing. Run the stud down into the housing unit the stud is the same height as the existing stud. Then use a wrench to hold the second nut and loosen the fist nut away from the second nut. Remove both nuts from the stud. You stud is now installed and you can reinstall the thermostat.
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You will need to remove your air cleaner and duct assembly. You will then see the thermostat housing sandwiched between the back of the intake manifold and the exhaust crossover pipe. The service manual says to remove the exhaust crossover pipe, but trust me, you do not want to attempt this unless you have access to a torch to heat the nuts that hold the thing to the exhaust manifolds. If you break a stud, then you are going to be removing an exhaust manifold for broken stud removal. If you take the 8mm screws out of the heat shield on the exhaust crossover pipe, you can wiggle the heat shield out. This will provide enough room to get the lower thermostat housing bolt out. It is a pain to do it this way, but it works and will prevent broken exhaust pipe studs. Sometimes the little 8mm bolts will also break, but since they only hold the heat shield, it is of no great consequence.
Then all you have to do is remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the manifold. The thermostat is directly under it. Then the only other real "trick" is getting the thermostat and O-ring to stay in the correct position while you put the thermostat bolts back in. A trick that I use is a small wooden wedge. I put the thermostat housing into place over the thermostat and O-ring, then place mt wedge between the thermostat housing and the crossover pipe to hold the thermostat housing in place while I start the bolts. Otherwise, the thermostat tends to slide out the bottom while you are trying to get the bolts started.