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it could be the idle valve on the front of the engine, or you could have an air hose not correctly fitted, try removing the idle valve and give it a good clean with some brake cleaner, tap it a couple of times and then refit it, the other one is check all the hoses arround the throttle housing, and below it, it could be you have a traped hose not letting air in...theres a couple of things to try first
The Rav 4s have 2 issues firstly the injectors can leak and this causes a strong fuel smell on start up,even cleaning wont fix it they need to be replaced,and secondly valve stem seals go in them meaning on cold start up it will blow smoke for a few seconds,these are the 2 most common issues as i work for Toyota and see plenty of them
check both lambda sensors for breaks in wires and for open circuit on heater side of lambda sensor on the one under the car on the second cat,failed heater element will not heat gas engough for sensor to read causing false readings , also check for slow i.a.c valve on inlet manifold.
Inspect Hose (PCV)at Clogged or Collapsed PCV Hoses.
Inspect EGR Valve Improperly Functioning or Faulty EGR Valve.
Inspect Valve Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
Inspect Wireset Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.
Hi, i have listed a cluster of problem spots that you will need to inspect for damage. You will find that your hard starting issue will be the cause of damage in one or more of the above problem areas listed above. Please check each area thoroughly for ware and tare and possible damaged components as well. replace any damaged or worn device listed above.
Same problem for me. The car would idle at about 2500 when started from cold and about 3 miles on would not idle at all, resulting in the revs dropping off when changing gear or stopping. Also rather jerky in top gear unless thrashed - numerous trips to the garage for air idle valve, injectors etc. but still a problem! Have just found out that GVs are a bit prone to carbon build up in the throttle body - mine was almost blocked - it now feels like a different car.
AS far as i understand it your air flow meter only controles your idle, not your air/fuel mixture. The mixture is controled by the Air/fuel mixture body that sits immidiatly below your fuel distributor. it has a 'tower' that reaches up to a hole in your aircleaner so you can get to it with an allenkey. To set the mixture correct it needs the aircleaner on. that screw changes the pivot point of the arm that gets depressed by the large round disk visual if the aircleaner is of. This is not a throttle butterfly, it mechanically 'measures' the airflow by being sucket down and pushing a plunger upwards into the fuel distributer increasing the amount of petrol to the injectors. You say gas as a supplement... I assume you mean Hydrogen Fuelcell. Because if your trying to 'add' instead of replacing with LPG or Natural Gas you will have a problem as LPG for example needs to ignite earlier. For example if the petrol engine fires at 6 deg BTC on petrol, than converted for LPG it needs to fire at 16 deg BTC on their original plugs (newer plugs are available that allow for an acceptable setting suitable for both fuels but all i everseen when petrol was still present when switching to LPG is an 'engine bay' fire)... But assuming your talking Hydrogen fuel cells as a supplement to try and reduce your fuel consumtion than the element that could create a problem for you is the Lamda probe (Oxygen sensor) in your exhaust as it may think that your fuel mixture is to lean and tries to increase fuel through the cold start injector or the electronic pressure regulator on the fuel distributer. I hope this will help you somewhat.