Fan belt broke. Briefly overheated and lost gallon of radiator fluid. After new belt, check engine light stays on. Car running fine.
Hi there:
When the light comes on, one or more diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are stored in the engine control module. These DTCs remain even if the light goes out. To address a Check Engine Light problem, the DTCs are retrieved and the appropriate troubleshooting information is followed in order to determine the problem.
The Four Most Common Check Engine Light Scenarios and What to Do:
* The Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers.
If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.
* The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on.
If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.
* The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems.
This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all -it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.
* The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving.
Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.
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SOURCE: car will start but won't stay running
Hi!
I'm presuming the B23 engine? Have you checked fuel pressure valve located on the inlet manifold, are your plugs getting soaked in fuel?
If not try looking at the Fuel relay in the block situated behind the ash tray below the Radio.
It might be easier for you to access this by taking out the coin tray, flip the cover plate off the cigar lighter it will reveal 2 screws, take that out and the tray then you'll see a whole lot more relays.
There are different types/colours I'm guessing your could be Blue but there are white ones too.Try Jiggling them carefully then crank the engine if it runs but poorly replace.
You must replace with correct one even if it is Blue some have Copper Lugs others steel and they are different.
Good Luck!
Paul 'W'
SOURCE: 1990 Volvo 740 GL Wagon Leaking Transmission Fluid
the trans pan might just need a touch up on the bolts , cold weather will shrink the gasket a little bit , if you cant do it yourself , find someone thats handy to just touch up the bolts 1/4 to 1/2 turn on any that will move easly good luck
SOURCE: 1990 Volvo 740 GLE 16 Valve DOHC - Burning Gas
we have the same car, i would have a mechanic check the ECU. thats the first step in finding out what is wrong and why its burning so mutch fuel. it could also be your air filter, but then agian, you wouldnt be burning a tank of gas a day. well hope you get it fixed.
SOURCE: '90 Volvo 740 2.3l turbo water pump install instructons needed
Go to an auto supply store like PEP boys or Advance Auto, etc., and buy a Haynes Repair Manual for the 740. You may be able to consult one at your local library for free. Even if it doesn't cover your model year, the replacement instructions are pretty much the same for all years. in fact even a 240 Volvo manual would be essentially the same. Pay particular attention to the installation instructions....you have to slide the pump on, and then rotate it a few degrees clockwise to make the upper o-ring seal. Good luck!
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I bought a fuel advance chip off ebay (a simple resistor that fools the ECU into injecting more fuel) within 200kms in 1 week of driving I had the "Check engine/emmsion" light come on. The car did perform slightly better but i knew what has caused the fault so i immediately removed the fuel chip and disconnected the battery for an hour to reset the ECU. The light has gone now, so my basic advice is if your 740 "Engine light" comes on but you don't notice any performance issues is that you disconnect your battery for at least 15mins to reset your ECU. The light will go out but this DOES NOT mean the fault that caused it has magically disappeard, however if the light doesnt come on within the next 1000 kilometers of driving I would say you don't have a serious engine fault and it may be a 1 time minor hiccup that your cars ECU has diagnosed as a fault. And being an older European car the cat sensors can deteriorate and foul up over time making them less accurate or sensitive. I suggest always using a premium fuel of 95RON. These cars do run fine on Ethanol blends of E10 fuel (93RON when blended with 10% ethanol) but I have found in my 740 this can also cause the "engine/emmsion" light to come on after driving a few full tanks of E10. Premium fuel of 95RON does not give this fault. If your 740 is driving fine with no performance issues I may suggest a good service: Quality engine oil and filter, Air filter, replace new spark plugs, check/test the ignition leads and use a quality injection/fuel system additive with a full tank of premium 95RON fuel. But another common engine/ignition issue with B230F motors is the noise suppresion relay mounted in the engine bay. Suprisingly a simple and cheap component that can cause strange misfire and ignition problems in the 740.
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