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Re: install a new radiator "1999 Suzuki Vitara
Yes you need to remove the fan. I believe the fan is bolted by 10mm small bolts to the top of your radiator. Remove your transmission lines, drain the radiator, remove the hoses and overflow hose, unplug the fan, remove it, and you're left with the 2 brackets on the front crossmember on both sides of your hood latch. Remove the 2 brackets and your radiator should lift right out
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My suzuki has a timing belt.. obtain a Chilton Manual for your car..
As you take it apart take pictures at every step so you can get it back together.. Good luck.. you might consider installing the complet kit. belt, idler, pully, Wyle yyour there consider replacing the water pump Depending on how many miles the car has.. You have to take it all apart to do this to.. Do your self a favor and start with removing the radiator..
Is your cooling fan coming on? Make sure that it is. If not check fuses, relay and fan. The fan should come on and draw air through the radiator to cool the coolant if this isn't happening then the vehicle will overheat and as the coolant expands in an effort to relief the pressure the valve on the radiator cap will allow coolant to exit the radiator and go into the reservoir. This would be a good time to service your thermostat and change the radiator cap
First make sure the cooling system is full. This might require letting it cool and filling it more than once though the main raditor cap. Then it needs looked over for leaks. If it won;t stay full it'll overheat. The hose from the recovery tank to the raditor connection at the cap is a problem spot and it the raditor can't **** the coolant from the tank back into the raditor the engine will soon get low. If these things are alright then you neeed to watch it heat up, and see what's happening. The engine should worm up and as it does the upper raditor hose will warm and but hot but not right away. The side of the raditor should start to warm up soon after that, Touching the raditor it should warm up evenly from top to bottom if it doesn;t it's clogged. If the hose and engine get hot and the pressure inside the hoses rise but the raditor says cool then the therostate is sticking and needs to be changed. If the whole radidor gets hot till everythings too hot and the fan does'nt come on then you need to test the fan and it's fuses and connections. The cooling fan will be comanded on if you unplug the coolant temperture senser that's pluged into the side of the therosate hoseing as it's where the upper hose connects to the engine. If the fan seems to be coming on and hot air is coming off the back of the fan and it's still getting too hot and you've decided that the whole radidor is getting evenly hot then the engine may have an issue. Exhaust clogged up ( cat canvertor, muffer bent pipes) The check engine light might be on and the reasons it's on need to be examinded.
Remove the lower splash shield and the raditor fan, remove the belt that goes around it and now the hard part, determine if their's any freon in the system and remove it, Lossen the bolts holding the lines on the compressor is unsthical but most pros do it that way to save time. don't let the escaping gas gey in your eyes or up your nose as you could get hurt bad. With the lineset removed disconnect the electrical connectors and remove the 4 bolts that hold the compressor on and lower it out the bottom. take that baby to the parts store and your best credit card or under the matress money and buy a new one ( not rebuilt ) They fail so quickly. make ure that all the electrical plugs match, and the connections for the line set verfiy that you have all the "O" rings you need as don't use any old ones. Now back at the car flush the system with an approved flush for Honda's and make shure that it blows though everything just fine, Replace the reciever drier last but remove it and flush some more. If any thing does'nt flush though good change the offending part. The condenser is almost always stopped up and will need to be replaced as the blown up compressor parts are inside of it and you can't get them, out nope not possible. With the new condenser installed as you had the raditor out to get the condenser ou just go ahead and clean the raditor and if it doesn't flush out good too change it too. The new AC won't work good if the raditor can't remove the engines heat and is the number one cause of compressor failure. Don't forget to clean and test the raditor fan as it is just a little dirty it'll blow only half as much air as when clean. In the open air if it draws more than 12 amps it's bad too and needs to be changed too. once all the new parts are instaled follow the directions that came with the compressor, for the correct amount of oil charge to be added depending on what parts you ended up having to replace. The expansion valve is a hard one to decide if it's been ruined by the compressor blowup. It's inside the inside heater box with the epaporater. If the condenser was stopped up then it's possible it's bad too. The evaporater can be dirty but as long as it's norr been leaking it's likly good all the other parts protect it. It's hard to change and if you don't have to don't. Now you've spentall your money and it's all put together. Take it to a shop that does AC work and tell them what you've done and have them charge it and test it. If your running an auto repair shop you would'nt be asking this question therefore you don't have an evacuation pump and a charging station to correctly install the freon and balance the system and remove the freon again if it leaking somewher. and if it's good to performance tes the system and see how close you got to as good as new.. Any leak even if small is very bad as it'll leak 24/7 till the freon is gone. Repair shops aren't allowed to leave freon in systems that they know that leak and the charging station will let then remove the freon and sell it to the next guy. This is a pro job if you've been doing this work a long time you get good at it but working on your own and buying the tools just to do it for yourself, is cost prohibitive and if you skip the evucate part it'll fail for shure.
You will need a fan clutch tool or a large adjustable wrench. Some fans have reverse threads (ie: right = loosen, left = tighten) so take a look at the threads on the new fan to make sure your turning the fan the correct way. Keep the serpentine belt on to help stop the water pump from turning. There is a tool to stop the water pump from turning while removing the fan clutch. But usually a large clamp or pry bad used cautiously can do the trick. It wasn't necessary to remove the radiator to replace the fan.