Question about 1993 Honda Accord

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Wheel stud replacement

Do the studs unscrew or pop out for replacement? i've gotten both answers from different people.

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  • Master
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You need to look at them... very likely a press fit which requires a torch and hammer to remove them and an air rachet to reinstall them...

Robert

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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  • Honda Master
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Wheel studs are pressed in, there are a number of way to do this, a well greased grade 8 nut works well to pull the stud into the hole.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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2 Answers

How do i get the top bolt out the nut just comes off


If you are trying to remove a stud (a screwed bolt fixed into a metal block) try using 2 nuts. Screw them on and tighten them against each other with 2 spanners. Once tight, unscrew the lower nut. The top nut will stop it moving up the stud and should start turning the stud. An alternative way is to spot weld (tack) a nut onto the stud. Either way turns the stud into a kind of standard bolt.

Oct 27, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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How do i replace the rear wheelstud n a ve gts commodore


you drive out the old one (use a stud remover press) or hammer, then pull the new one in with a wheel nut and spacers (washers work good)

Sep 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Rewire rear right door of Odssey 2005 EXL


I found this on an Odyssey forum. It is long, but that panel is not a short process. After you have fixed the wire, you might have to "rehome" the doors. Google this and you should find instructions.
  1. I just finished replacing the passenger 3rd row seatbelt in my 2006 Odyssey, which required removal and replacement of the trim panel. Instructions were enclosed with the new seatbelt ordered from Honda, but I had to scan thru the whole document because the needed info was not in the section about 3rd row seatbelt replacement.

    Trim panel removal is not terribly difficult, but is rather fussy and slow work. Basically the panels are held in place by little plastic pins that snap into holes in the underlying metal bodywork. In addition, the rear panel is held at the bottom by the sliding door threshold panel and the rear hatch threshold panel, and at the top by the pillar trim panels flanking the rear window. (These are called Pillars C and D, repectively).

    You may as well start by unbolting the 2nd row seatbelt at the floor and on Pillar C. Down at the floor, pull back the rubbery cover and unscrew the bolt using a 14mm wrench. Up above, on the pillar, remove the plastic cover at the sealbelt shoulder height adjustment mechanism. This cover has hooks molded into either side, so gently use a screwdriver to pry them loose and pop off the cover, then unscrew the bolt with your 14mm wrench.

    Next, remove the sliding door threshold panel by prying it up with a screwdriver or prybar and getting your fingers under it until you hear and feel the pins pop loose one by one. You will develop a feel for how much force to apply. Use your fingers as much as possible, because you risk marring the plastic edges with steel tools. The threshold panel is hooked into the other trim panels at either end, so work it to disengage.

    Fold the rear seat down flat and remove the plastic cover over the seat pivot. Pry the forward side up first and then rotate it rearwards over the pivot, and then disengage and remove it fully.

    At the rear hatch, unscrew the two cargo net knobs on the passenger side. The plastic knobs will probably come off like nuts, leaving a steel stud behind, or the stud may remain attached to the knob; either way is okay.

    Pry loose and remove the little plate on the rear trim panel "window sill" where the seat belt enters. BTW, keep all these little loose parts together as you go.

    On Pillar D (rearmost pillar) there is a small square cover that says something about air bags. Pry this loose at the top, as it is hinged at the bottom. You may need something thinner than a screwdriver (try a pocket knife). Once this is open, remove the Phillips head screw inside.

    Pillar C (forward) also has a square "air bag" cover plate, but it works differently. Just pry it straight out, but not all the way out. Just let it dangle.

    At this point all the major hindrances to removing the passenger side rear trim panel have been dealt with. Starting back at the rear hatch, pry the panel loose and pull it away from the wall, using fingers as much as possible. Listen for the plastic pins to pop loose as you go. There are two at the rear, four across the "window sill" and two toward the front. There is another pin in the center of the panel, but it will pop loose eventually as you pull the panel away from the wall.

    NOTE: The lower trim panel and the pillar trim panels are hooked together, so you have to work those joints to separate them. NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE PILLAR TRIM PANELS LOOSE AT THE TOP. First loosen them at the bottom, and then rotate and work them gently free of the headliner. Similarly, the main trim panel should be loosened at either end and along the top before rotating the panel in, sort of pivoting at its base. It is hooked under the rear hatch threshold, so you'll have to work it free by pushing down and rotating.

    Long before this point, I was wondering if I could get at the seatbelt retractor spool behind the trim panel without completely removing the trim panel. However, there was a hard plastic a/c duct in the way, so I had to completely remove the trim panel to get at the duct. It turned out there wasn't much holding the duct in place and I was able to loosen it enough to get the old seat belt spool out and the new one bolted in.

    Reinstall everything in reverse order. One tip I can offer concerns the little square plate on the Pillar C trim panel, the one I said to leave dangling. This gizmo is actually a long plastic stud. When I finally managed to pull the Pillar C trim panel loose from the main trim panel, this stud fell out. It is molded in tan plastic (my van has tan interior) but it had a separate black piece on the end. I thought I would never get this stud/plate back in place during reinstallation. Here's the trick: take the little black piece loose from the stud, and install it first by itself by pushing it into the hole, making sure the cross-shaped hole is aligned correctly to match the tan stud. The small black piece is analogous to a nut, and the tan stud is like a bolt. Put the "nut" in first, then poke the "bolt" in on top of it. Otherwise, the stud forces the "nut" to expand BEFORE IT CAN ENTER THE HOLE in the metal bodywork, and no amount of pushing or pounding will force it in.
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  • Jun 24, 2014 | 2005 Honda Odyssey

    1 Answer

    How do you replace tire bolts and lugnuts


    YOU DON'T SAY WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE YOU OWN. SO , THIS IS A RATHER GENERIC TYPE ANSWER. THE HUB OR AXLE SHAFT HAS THE WHEEL STUDS PRESSED INTO IT. THE LUG NUTS FASTEN TO THEM. TO REPLACE A BROKEN STUD YOU MUST USE A PRESS OR A DRIFT PIN AND A HAND SLEDGE HAMMER TO KNOCK OUT THE BROKEN STUD. YOU CAN REPLACE THE BROKEN STUD THE SAME WAY. THE PROBLEM IS YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO REMOVE THE AXLE OR THE HUB, OR THE DISC TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE STUD. AN EASY TASK IT YOU HAVE THE CORRECT TOOLS. IF NOT JUST TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE TIRE STORE AND THEY PROBABLY WILL REPLACE IT CHEAPER THAN YOUR LOCAL GARAGE WILL. BE PREPARED TO SHELL OUT $45.00 TO REPLACE A $3.00 STUD.

    Oct 22, 2011 | 2004 Ford Explorer

    1 Answer

    Right wheel fell off how do I put it back together need a schematic


    if your wheel fell off there is no shematic that i know of however check to see if the studs are stripped if so pull the wheel ( POP-OFF THE BEARING CAP WITH A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER) unscrew thew wheel nut and pull the wheel (being careful not to drop the bearings on the ground ) then with an old nut or board (2 by 4) or something similar so you don't flare the stud so that it wont go through the hole. drive studs out and replace (fairly cheap). when you put the new studs in make sure that the teeth on the back of the hub line up with the teeth on the studs before you drive them in.if the whole fell off make sure that the threads on the spline (shaft) are not damaged. if so repair the threads and get new bearings . ( bearings only go in one way) and nut and cotter pin. (if you don't know that the race is any good take the hub to the auto parts store and ask the attendant at the counter) when reassembling do not over tighten the wheel nut and BE SURE TO PUT THE COTTER PIN IN AND BEND 1 PRONG BACK.

    Sep 08, 2010 | 1987 Ford Ranger

    1 Answer

    Where is the starter located on a 2002 Chevy Suburban? How do I replace it?


      Removing the Starter
    1. Step 1 Open the hood to access the engine compartment. Disconnect the battery by unscrewing the positive and negative terminals. This will prevent the risk of electrical shock.
    2. Step 2 Crawl under the passenger side of the truck and locate the starter. The starter is positioned between the transmission and the engine.
    3. Step 3 Unbolt the negative and positive wires from the starter with a socket wrench. Take the nut off the stud and pull the wires off the stud. Repeat the same for the positive wire.
    4. Step 4 Unscrew the two bolts holding the starter to the frame. Wiggle the starter to work it free from the flywheel.
      Installing the Starter
    5. Step 1 Position the new starter onto the frame. Tighten the bolts to secure the starter in place.
    6. Step 2 Unscrew the nut on the positive stud and push the positive wire down on the stud. Tighten the nut on the stud to secure the positive wires.
    7. Step 3 Unscrew the nut on the negative stud. Push the negative wire on the stud and tighten the nut to the stud to secure the wire.
    8. Step 4 Connect the battery cables to the terminals. Ensure the positive wire connects to the positive terminal. Ensure the negative wire connects to the negative terminal.
    9. Step 5 Start the truck to ensure the starter is functioning correctly. The starter should catch as soon as you turn the key and start the truck.

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    Replacing lug studs on the left front wheel of a 2006 ford f250


    now are u talkin about the lugs or the wheel studs?? the lugs are easily replaced but the studs will be harder u have to total tear down the whole tire arrangement to pop the thing holding the studs on the pop them out with a hammer :) hope this helps

    Mar 26, 2010 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

    1 Answer

    NEED TO REPLACE STUDS BUT NEED TO FIND OUT HOW BIG BOLT IS TO UNSCREW THE ROUND THING THAT HOLDS THE STUDS


    If you are refering to wheel lug studs,they have to be knocked out from the out side in.

    Oct 10, 2009 | 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix

    1 Answer

    Wheel studs or bolts


    Hello Miguel Thank you for using FixYa.com my name is David I hope this Helps you out.
    Studs often get damaged from overtightening or from cross threading a nut on the threads. A damaged stud is replaced by unscrewing it from the part and installing a new one of the exact same size.
    Stud replacement can be difficult because the stud has often been in place for a long period of time. There has been constant heating and cooling, corrosion, and rust buildup between the stud threads and the internal threads of the part. These factors combine to make some studs very difficult to remove.
    The first step in stud removal is to use penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion to free the stud from its mating threads. Soak the area of the threads with penetrating fluid. Allowing the fluid to soak into the threads overnight will make it easier to remove the stud.
    Before removing the old stud, measure the distance it sticks up from the surface. This measurement will be needed later when installing the new stud. Use a 6-inch scale to measure from the part surface to the top of the stud. Write the measurement down so it can be referred to later.
    A stud remove is used to remove studs. It is installed over the stud. The jaws on the stud remover grip the outside of the stud. A wrench fits on the stud remover and allows the technician to rotate the stud in a counterclockwise direction to remove the stud.
    If a stud remover is not available, a stud can be removed with two nuts. Locate two nuts that are the correct thread size. To thread onto the stud. Start one nut and thread it all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This nut will be the drive nut. Start another nut and thread it down until it contacts the first nut. This is called the jam nut.
    Put a wrench on the bottom drive nut and hold it in place. Put another wrench on the jam nut and tighten, or "jam" it against the drive nut. The jam nut will now hold the drive nut in position on the stud.
    Now put an open-end wrench on the bottom drive nut. Turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Turning the nut in this direction causes it to want to unscrew the stud. Instead the forces cause the stud to unscrew.
    When the old stud is out, inspect the internal thread. If it appears rusty or damaged, clean up the thread by running the correct size tap through the threads as previously explained. Compare the new stud with the old one. The studs should be exactly the same thread size and the same length.
    Check the vehicle's service manual to determine if the threads of the new stud should be coated. If the stud should be locked in place and not easily removed, you may need to use a threadlocking compound or threadsealing compound. Threadlocking compounds are on studs and other fasteners when vibration might cause them to unscrew. Thread sealants are used when a stud extends where liquids, such as oil or coolant, could get on the fastener.
    Antiseize compound is used on the stud threads to prevent the stud from reacting with the metal on the internal threads. If this happens, the stud could stick or seize. Antiseize compound prevents this reaction and makes the stud easier to remove the next time.
    After the new stud is properly coated, it can be installed. Start the stud by hand, making sure it enters the threads securely. Turn the stud in as far as possible by hand before using any tools. Then use two nuts as described earlier to drive the stud into the part. Use the depth measurement made on the old stud to be sure it is driven in the correct depth.

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