Question about 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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Car won't start.

It cranks, but doesn't turn over. Tried jumping it, but no success. Don't know if its the battery or something else. It is a diesel so the fuel may have gelled.
How do I take out the battery to put it on a trickle charger?

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Check this link from the tdi club http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398 its very detailed you can check the starter cable and the battery to be sure they're connected and charged up. to remove the battery take off the plastic cover it has tabs on the sides. then remove the covers from the headlight just a few screws on top of them. now remove the 13mm bolt on the bracket down in front of the battery. last remove the cables and the fuse box which has clips and slide it foward and lift it up. No you can lift the battery out

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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What cause the car want start even if u jump it it just cleick


Start with the basics, here. Check that battery cables are not loose and are CLEAN, on the battery AND the starter. Beyond that, check the battery charge with a volt meter. Fully charged should be 12.5 volts or higher, you will lose starter spin at 10 volts. If the battery is low, hook it up to a charger and charge it up completely. If you don\'t have a voltmeter, go to the store and buy one. If you\'re going to try and fix things like this, you have to have one. If you can\'t do that, remove the battery and take it to someplace like AutoZone. They will charge and test the battery for free. If you can\'t take the battery out, or don\'t have a friend that can, have the car towed to your mechanic.



Here\'s the thing- I can\'t tell you exactly why, but some cars you just can\'t jump start. Happens more on side mount post type batteries. Because you can\'t jump your car doesn\'t mean it won\'t start with a fully charged battery. Now there are other things that could be wrong with you car, that it won\'t crank over and start for you.....but we begin the diagnosis with the battery.

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The car was running fine one day then the next day it would not start. We tried jumping it thinking the battery might be dead and it still would niot start. The car has power until we take the jumper...


Sounds like you have a toasted battery or alternator. Have you performed a load test on the battery? Have you tried to charge the battery? First remove the battery and charge it externally from the vehicle. If the battery won't hold a charge, or won't hold a charge of 12 volts, replace it. Once you have the vehicle started, test the operation of the alternator. It should be putting out at least 13 volts back to the battery to keep it charged - if it is putting less than 13 volts or more than 16 volts, replace the alternator.

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I have a 97 Ford Expedition. Every time I go to crank up it won't crank I would have to get a jump. And I'd just bought that battery a couple of months ago. Then when I took it to be checked out I...


ok, first, once the vehicle is started, the alternator should take over the functions of the car,, not the battery , the battery should charge during this time, ( car running) if the alternator is having to supply to much juice to the battery the whole car suffers, and the battery never fully charges . Just because the battery says 12 volts, doesn't mean the amps are there, which you need to start the vehicle,, take the battery and get it LOAD tested, this will let you know if one or more cells in the battery aren't up to par, if it doesn't measure up,, get it replaced, you sate that its only 4 months old, so take it to someone other than who you bought the battery from, and have it load tested there, once you have a known GOOD battery ,, start the vehicle,, then with a meter check the battery posts,, you should get a reading of between 13.5-14.5 volts, if you don't,, your alternator isn't doing its job and will need replacing

Sep 19, 2011 | 2004 Ford Expedition

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2001 Yukon SLT, engine will not turn over - friends think it's the alternator. Battery is 2 yrs old. My friend tried to jump start it, that did nothing, still won't stay turned on. I got the...


Hi there !

I won't say its an alternator problem because the alternator only charges the battery when its on, And it should start with the jump cables even if the battery and the alternator are bad. your Issue is not clear. Does the car start when you jump it ?

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Yesterday i changed my passenger side mirror connected the wires and while i was driving it was good when i cut car off it wont start now ,but all the lights and everything works but it wont crank?


First you need to find out if the car will start when jump started or battery charger assisted. If it does, it is probably either the battery or alternator. You can have them both checked for free at most autoparts stores.

If it doesn't start, then you have to figure out if it is the starter or something in the engine froze up. If you take the serpentine belt off and can turn the main crank shaft with a large wrench then the engine is free and your starter is the problem. If it won't turn you have internal engine problems.

Aug 12, 2011 | 2005 Chrysler 300

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1994 BMW 740i with 222,000 turns over but won't start. Removed battery, had it tested and it's good; radio, lights, windows all working fine. Driving the car on Friday, went to start it on...


Hi.

If it does turn over and electrical works, then the problem is unlikely the battery. You can try jump starting. If it cranks when jump-starting it may be a weak battery, starter motor or alternator, but I don't think that this is the problem.

Check if there is spark on all cylinders. Do a code scanning (this car is OBD1, you will need to do the scan at the dealer place or to find a BMW OBD1 tool- Universal OBD2 scanner will not work on a 1994 BMW). If the codes return misfire or mixture related errors check fuel pressure, check sensors and parts that determine the mixture (MAF/MAP, AIT, O2 sensors, IAC and EGR system), check the vacuum system for leaks and check the crank sensor.

Regards.

Ginko

Aug 08, 2011 | BMW 750 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

I have a 2006 Dodge Charger. Went out yesterday, car started fine. Got home and stooped at my mailbox, when I went to start the car it wouldn't start. I did notice the lights on the dash would go dim...


I'd start with a battery first. Sounds like the battery has 1 or more dead cells in it. the battery may have all the volts you could want but if it doesn't have the proper amperage it won't crank the motor. You can have the battery load tested for free at Auto Zone or Advance Auto. A simple down and dirty test would be to disconnect the Positive cable and jump the vehicle by connecting directly to that and a good ground on the block. The motor should turn over as long as the vehicle you use as a jump has the proper amperage in it's battery. If the vehicle starts then it is the battery, if it doesn't then you need to look at the starter and other components.

Jun 26, 2011 | 2006 Dodge Charger

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