Engine "surging" even when car is stopped at light
I have been driving a 2004 Kia Optima 6 cylinder (I think it is LX? it does not have all options). At one time the engine light was popping on; I realized it was always after I put gas in the tank. One of the guys a work told me that the gas knob might not be on tight enough. So I tried that and the light went off until this past Sunday. Now as I drive the engine does sound rougher and although what I am about to state next is nothing new I am thinking I might have a problem. For lack of a better word my car surges (like I am pushing the gas) when my foot is on the brake at a stop. Anything I should be immediately concerned about?
Really need some assistance because money is tight and I can not afford any car problems.
Re: Engine "surging" even when car is stopped at light
After some deep diagnosis with my Scan-tool, I have fixed the issue. Of all things, it was the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I was getting a PO118 code, so I looked up the sensor, graphed it with the scanner and saw that the sensor was flaking out. It would read an avg. temp. of 190 degrees, then all of the sudden drop to -40 degrees. This sensor adjusts the fuel/air ratio, thus explains my idle speed troubles. Basically, the sensor was giving too much fuel or "flooding" the engine. I have been driving for 3-4 days now and have had 0 problems since the replacement. BTW, the sensor is located by the thermostat and can be removed with an 11/16" deep-well socket. I bought the sensor for $15 at O'Reilly Auto parts. Anyway, hope this helps someone.
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Re: Engine "surging" even when car is stopped at light
This could be anything from spark plugs needing change to bad coil pack, Poor connection in plug boot (should be spring with resistor in middle these break or wear after use.) Best bet plug into obdII code reader and then check plugs. OHM the coils for 12V. If you have power supply apply 3 volts to coils and test for output ..
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A flashing check engine light means FIX IT NOW! It probably has a dead cylinder (most likely an igniton issue).Most likely,the PCM has figured out which cylinder it is aand turned off the fuel injector to it.You can get a cheap,basic code scanner(mine was 50 bucks at Harbor Freight Tools,made by Cen-Tech).It can read the code and has a book to tell you what the code means.If you find the cylinder with the misfire and correct the problem,you have to clear the code to restore fuel to that cylinder(this cheap tool does that,too).
Kia:Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 Transition I just had this happen on mine. I will reset code and wait. If it comes on and it was not a fluke I will replace the O2 sensor on Bank 2 which I think is the rearward bank on our 2.x 6 cylinder Optima 2002 SEV6.
A crank-no start condition can definitely be caused by a faulty crank sensor; if after testing the crank sensor and finding it defective you will need to clear the codes and drive for at least a couple of drive cycles to see if the emission codes are legitimate or were simply induced by the failure of the crank sensor.
The 01 Optima had the keyless entry buttons right on the key itself. I'm not sure if the LX had the option... it was standard on the SE version. In any case, programming is done at the dealership, and is expensive. They use their special "code reader / writer" that plugs into the OBD II port under the dash. You provide all keys and they are recoded to the module that is located under the stereo. A cheaper option might be an aftermarket alarm installed at a local car audio shop. They are less expensive than you might think, even installed. Good luck.
P.S. the 01 Optima remote key had a problem with very short range. You needed to be within a few feet of the doors for it to work.
The thing is your doing the timing belt the water pump is right their with it . it should cost you much more at all besides the cost of the water pump. When doing a timing belt I have a rule that I go by The timing belt/seals =cam , crank , any pulley & tensioner & water pump all get replaced at the same time. I did a t-belt on a Audi A-8 very complex whole front of car has to come off as well, he didnt want to do w-pump & thermostat his thermostat was their as well not even a month later the water pump gave out he had to pay double the price because he didnt want to do it when I had it apart the first time. And make sure mechanic is ase certified . good luck
sgutowski283: the LX had 2 different engines which could have been in you car. However, KIA has engineered their engines to where the oil filter is located at the very front of the engine below the front crank pulley on both the 4 and 6 cylinder engines.
STAY AWAY FROM CHEAP OIL AND CHEAP OIL FILTERS! You engine will last for 200,000 miles easily, if taken care of.
Good luck, Give the folks at FIXYA some feed back if your happy with my assistance.