HOW DO YOU REPLACE TIMING BELT? I WAS TOLD I NEED TO ALSO REPLACE THE WATER PUMP AT THE SAME TIME, BECAUSE IF IT FAILS LATER ON I WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN . IS THIS CORRECT? ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO DO IT YOURSELF?
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Those belts are usually supposed to be changed every 60,000 miles. Behind the timing belt cover is your water pump. They can make noise when going out, but usually a timing belt makes no noise, just breaks. If you ever have to change the water pump, it is always suggested to change the timing belt as well. VS. If your timing belt gets stretched, it will make a bit of a noise, but your car will start running poorly at the same time. Hope I was helpful
that engine is built by nissan believe it or not. look on the net for your van or a nissan maxama. I just googled it and found lots of diagrams for that van(95 mercury villiger 3.0 timing belt diagram. I would not only replace the belt, I would replace it using a timing belt replacement kit.If your going to keep the van.
there are conflicting opinions on this. some sites are saying that the ford engine used in these is an "inteference" engine and the valves would probably have bent. others are saying that the mercury engine was modified with a slightly lower power output, but was a "non inteference" engine meaning that there would be no contact between the valves and the pistons, and you could just replace the timing belt. all sites recommend changing the water pump at the same time as the belt.
i would recommend you ring your mercury dealership and ask them as they should be able to tell you conclusively using the chassis and engine numbers. then you can decide the best course of action. when you have decided, feel free to ask again for more advice and instructions.
most likely timing belt failed.this turns camshafts which in turn rotate distributor.fotunately for you ford insisted nissan make this a non interference engine during their joint venture with mercury villager.so no internal damage should have occurred.im guessing about 700.00 to replace timing belt,water pump and drive belts.
at 150,000 miles pretty much everything could be worn out if it is all original, if the van is in really good shape no dents or bad dings paint good, interior is in really good shape and the van has been serviced on a regular basis then yes fix it, also this is a free wheeling engine so if the timing belt breaks there is no damage to the engine, if it ran good with no excess oil useage or engine noise fix it..
I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.