Question about 1999 Ford F250 Regular Cab
I have a 1999 Ford F250 with a two tank golden fuel system installed. It is an older installation in being that the main tank is the veggie tank and a 19 gallon tank is in the bed for diesel. I recently experienced a loss of power and sputtering in the veggie side so I switched back to diesel and ordered the Racor R120 filter and replaced it. Shortly after I switched back over to veggie the engine completely lost power and stalled. I haven't been able to get it to fire up since. I was told that it is probably hydro locked but I am not sure what that means. I am guessing I probably got some air in the fuel lines but am not sure how to properly bleed them now that it’s too late to prime the filter properly. When the engine does turn over lots of white smoke comes out of the exhaust, a symptom of air in the fuel lines, but I have drained the batteries four times trying to get it all out. What is the proper way to get all the air out and also to push all the veggie oil through so that I can start it off diesel since it stalled on veggie oil?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ok here is the meaning of firing order The numbers 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 represent the order of wish cylinder the distributor send a spark as it rotates Starting whit cylinder number 1 The distributor will have to rotor on the number 1 cylinder spark plug and the piston on the number 1 cylinder will be at the top So the fuel and air will be compressed and ignited by the spark plug. The next one will be the cylinder number 5 to do the same as the crankshaft and distributor rotate Next will be number 4 then 2 then 6 ? 7 ? 8. You get the idea "10 Degrees" The degrees represent of spark advance You may think gas explode instantly but it actually take a little time So for the explosion has maximum power when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder the distributor send the spark a little ahead of time 10 degrees of revolution is the recommended by the manufacture but that can be adjust buy losing up the distributor clap bolt and manually turn it. In order to adjust that you need a timing gun Than will flash light on the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) and you will see a notch and a series of numbers than represents the timing advance Note If you have not turn the distributor by loosing to button clap bolt I recommend to live it alone and go to you local part store and get the repair manual find the firing order to see wish wire go to wish cylinder Rotate the crack shaft pulley on till the notch is on 0 and see if the distributor rotor is tours cylinder number one. Cars than don?t used distributor do that automatically and constantly adjust the ignition timing by the computer.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
are you losing coolant? ford had a huge problem with that engine,and the coolant eats the main bearings.
the defect is in the EGR valve setup.
check with ford,they are aware of the issue,there are thousands of them
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FUEL LINES WHERE THE FUEL PRIMING PUMP IS CONNECTED FOR ANY CHAFFING THEY ARE COMMON FOR CHAFFING BESIDE THE FUEL FILTER WHICH WOULD EXPLAIN WHY FUEL IS RETURNING TO FUEL TANK.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
Hello! There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #1-15-6 that addresses electrolysis in the cooling system...If this TSB has been installed on your vehicle...There will be a tag on the drivers door with the TSB #...Also, a restrictor will be inserted into the heater core inlet...Lets eliminate this right up front...Check to see if this TSB is installed...
The vehicle does have a closed system...Electrolysis, coupled with air in the system is the likely culprit...Replacing the metal lines with rubber will increase electrolysis, which turns the coolant to a "goop"...Coolant flow is adequate when being pumped, but when you shut the engine off the goop blocks the system...Pressure is high...So coolant spews out...
I'll send a test to determine the level of electrolysis...You will need a DIGITAL multimeter...We'll fix the the electrolysis...flush the system...replace the thermostat...And properly bleed the air...Send comment about TSB and do yo have the digital meter...Guru...........Saailer
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
Testimonial: "No, TSB is not installed. No label, and there was nothing in the heater core inlet when I re-did the system. I own a DMM."
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