Question about 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

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Diagram for tie rod ends on 1997 ford f250 xl

Would you happen to have a diagram for the installation of tie rod ends for the 1997 ford f250 xl heavy duty?

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  • Tol8forme May 11, 2010

    What do you need a diagram for? Just look under the truck.

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  • Ford Master
  • 4,369 Answers

Here is 4x2. #6 is the tie rod. please rate as fixya if this helps

diagram for tie rod ends on 1997 ford f250 xl - 4c65de5.gif

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

6 Suggested Answers

  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: I,ve disconected the tie rod

If it is the inner tie rod you are working on it need to be threaded out on some you can get with a wrench but most you will need an inner tie rod tool. Look at your replacement tie rod you will see the threads and two flat spots that is where the wrench goes. Please rate.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • 4369 Answers

SOURCE: How to change inner tie rod ends?

if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  • The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
  • If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  • If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
-------------------------------------------------------------
f12ee38.gif
-----------------------------------------------------
Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal
  1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
  1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
  1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .


    13b4d70.gif

  1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
  1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Support flex pipe.
  1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
  1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
  1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
  1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
  1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
  1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
  1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
  1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
  1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
  1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
  1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
  1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
  1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
  1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
  1. Install ******** heat shield.
  1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
  1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
  1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
  1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
  1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
  1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
  1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

Murphybanton
  • 2004 Answers

SOURCE: inner tie rod end on passenger side needs replaced

You will definately need an expert to handle this because it is in a tight compartment.

Good luck.

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: while accelering in my 2000 ford e450 super duty

Have a look at the transmission mount. Also look at the universal joints in the drive shaft.
If the transmission mount is bad or mushy it will allow the metal part of the mount to touch the crossmember causing a vibration.
A dry u-joint will also cause a vibration. Even if the u-joint isn't worn out or has visible play. Being dry will cause this. Are the u-joints factory? Do they have grease fittings on them? Have they been replaced? How many miles on them?
If the u-joints don't have grease fittings then they are most likely factory u-joints. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Ford Crown Victoria - shakes/vibrates @ highway speeds.

Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

  • 43 Answers

SOURCE: repair inner tie rod end of 1997 dodge avenger

f734654.gif #3 is the inner tie rod and it is simply screwed into each end of the steering rack. Raise and support the car remove the wheel and you should see where it is connected to the outer tie rod. There is a lock nut that you'll need to loosen slightly to get the tie rod off. You will need to get a wheel alignment once done but by slightly loosening the lock nut, you have a good reference of how it should be once done. Once loose, you should be able to turn the tie rod by using a wrench on the flattened area on the rod. Once disconnected from the outer tie rod end, you should be able to remove the dust boot covering the inner tie rod connection. Mine came right apart so hope you have no problems. After you have it out, here is where the loosened locknut comes into play. Put the new and old tie rod side by side, line up the ends that attach to the rack and pinion then mark the new rod so you know how far to put the lock nut on the new tie rod. Simply tightly screw the new one onto the rack and pinion put the boot back, screw on the lock nut to the mark then attach the tie rod to the outer tie rod end up to the lock nut then tighten the lock nut against the outer end. Get the tire back on, lower the car and Voila, done. Now go get an alignment.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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How to change inner tie rod ends?


if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
  • If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  • If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
-------------------------------------------------------------
f12ee38.gif
-----------------------------------------------------
Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal
  1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
  1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
  1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .


    13b4d70.gif

  1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
  1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Support flex pipe.
  1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
  1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
  1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
  1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
  1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
  1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
  1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
  1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
  1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
  1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
  1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
  1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
  1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
  1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
  1. Install ******** heat shield.
  1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
  1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
  1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
  1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
  1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
  1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
  1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.

Apr 15, 2009 | 1997 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

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Idler arm, pitmen arm, and tie rod ends, ball joints.

Feb 10, 2009 | 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

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Tie rod adjustments


Loosen the locknut and turn the Inner tie rod end , it has a ball and socket inside the steering rack boot. remember to tighten the locknut after servicing !

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1997 ford f250 steering problem


Check the tie rod, tie rod ends, and ball joints for excessive play. Jack up the front on either side and have a helper push and pull on the top or bottom of the tire. Watch the area where the hub pivots on the axle. if both sides check out. with the truck on the ground, have the helper turn the steeribg wheel back and forth about a half turn with the key off. Look for loose outer tie rod ends, and inner tie rod ends.
F-250 4x4 steering componants are pretty basic, If your unsure what to look for then take it to someone that knows how to fix it. Correctly. If you replaced any of the joints. It would be in your best interest to get it alighned.

Oct 24, 2008 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

Tie rod inner or outter/how to install


here is word for word what the manual says:

REMOVAL:
1. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the side to be dismanteld. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), make sure the air suspention switch is turned to the OFF position before the vehicle is riased to prevent damage to the system components.

2. Remove the front wheel.

3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. Discard the cotter pin.

4. Disconnect the tie-rod end fron the steering spindel with a Pitman arm puller.

5. Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and back it off several turns.

6. Apply a paint mark to the theads adjacent to the adjusting sleeve or tie-rod end. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod.

INSTALLATION:
7. Install the tie-rod end into the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod. Thread the tie-rob end in until the marks made on step 6 align.

8. Install the tie-rod end to the spindle. Make sure the front wheels and steering wheel are in the stright ahead position. Make sure the tie-rod stud is seated in the taper to prevent it from turing while tightening the nut.

9. Install the new nut on the stud and tighent it to the proper torque (45-60 ft-lbs). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely.

10. Tighten the tie-rod adjusting sleever clap bolts or jam nut to 50-68 ft-lbs. Make sure the tie-rod is posistioned correctly in the same posistion it was in before it was removed.

11. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

12. get the front end aligned.

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