The temperatures here are around cero F. right now. I opened the chofer's door but the door didn't want to close any more. The latch is not opening. I opened the other to see how the systems operate and the same happend but in this door I could make it to work. I wonder...It is because of the very low temperatures? Is it a mechanical problem? And if it is mechanical, how much should a person charge to repair it?
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1) Key turns but dose not unlock door. This means that the rod that goes to the back of the lock has came off. This also means that is the reason door is not unlocking with the remote as it pops the lock rod inside the door which pushes the lock open. 2) Key does not turn lock at all but works passengers side door. This means that the locks has been changed in the door, but that doesn't sound like the problem as you say the remote doesn't open the drivers side door so more than likely the rod has came off the back of the lock
There is a fuse box under the right rear seat cushion behind the driver. In that box is a 10 amp mini fuse marked "TRUNK DR RELEASE". That is the fuse that powers your remote receiver. If that fuse is good, the receiver may have failed. To remove the seat cushion, pull the front of the cushion up and then forward.
check fuses. I have a button that unlatches the back glass that is up by the instrument panel. I pushed that button a million times. Then I realized that the cab lights weren't working so I replaced the fuse, which happened to fix the back door!
If it's not unlocking, The only way o get it open is pop off the trim piece that goes around the window. On the bottom panel there might be two screws to remove on each side. If not then it will pop off to a point, because there are screws on the bottom you can't access. Pull it back and reach down and find the rods that go to the latch. usualy the one that is horizontal is the one that unlocks the hatch. move it left or right to unlock it, try the handle to see if it opens. If it doesn't reach again and open it from the other rod. Pull up on it. Good luck
You didn’t mention replacing the temperature sensor located
on the block in the path of the ‘cooled’ coolant.
I can’t tell you any closer where to look for it since you
didn’t specify which engine you have.
This device is a solid state item called a thermistor.
With the air temperature around 77 degrees F and a 'cold' engine, it should
measure about 10,000 Ohms and hot, around 1,200 Ohms while disconnected from
its mating connector.
With the ignition on, and the connector disconnected from
the sensor, you should measure about 5 volts coming from the ECU.
If this has failed, the ECU is not getting the right info
back from the sensor and doesn’t know if the fan is needed or not.