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easy bring the no 1 piston up to thed top then with the rotor arm pointing at the no lead it willl go then once it starts move distributor till it sounds right with no pinking ,i can do this by ear but it takes a lot of years experiance to do this so borrow a timing light
It's your alternator, take your old one and have it tested while your there to get a new one but I'm 100% that is your problem. You might take that battery out while your at it and have it tested to make sure that it isn't damaging your alternator.
You can call a parts store to see if this car/ altenator has a seperate voltage regulator. This is the part that fields the altenator to send out the voltage from the altenator. If it is built into the altenator you have to pull out the altenator to have it checked. I have bought new parts that were bad from the beginning. Very frustrating.
it is problem with main +ve supply for alternator from battery, fix new wire to alt to batt only for +ve supply and then try ,it will start charging,if it wont charge then problem with instrument cluster, only two could be cause.
I would be checking the wireing from your altenator,with a voltage drop, example if you have a 30 amp alt and the wire going from alt to your battery (usally to the starter)will only allow 15 amps back to your battery,the alt will charge full blast and cannot rest because of that wire or corrostion and alt will wear out premuterly,if you dont know how to do voltage drop you can ohm that wire and check for high resistance,I hope this helps you and dont forget to vote on this
The only thing that comes to mind is electrical connections--battery cable connections (obvious, but worth mentioning) and all wiring to alt. and regulator, nothing loose, corroded? I'd also check the battery by swapping in something else that may fit, or having it tested. Yes, it's new, but I have seen (although rarely) a bad battery that was right off the shelf, wouldn't take a charge.