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Re: NEED TO REPLACE THE BATTERY
I can't be real specific about your particular car, but if you know where the battery is, disconnect the Negative terminal first then the positive. remove any brace in the way so that it can be removed, then undo the clamp that hold the battery in. Put together in the reverse order. Hope this helps!
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on the net there is a lot of rubbish and not much sense about the oil you want to use in the transmission
so best advice is to talk with accredited transmission specialist shops as to the advantages of the synthetic oil and the compatibility issues with wiring insulation, mixing with mineral oils before doing it your self
you may need a aft4 or later
You can find a ecm at autozone but if not you can find one at the dealer, make sure that you handle this part with care, also make sure the ecm is ready to install, you need this things before installing the ecm latex gloves, you also need to ground your self to prevent any shock with ecm by doing this you need a wire with the one end to the ground of the car and the other end to your self you can buy one at autozone, NEVER TOUCH ECM WITH OUT GLOVES this is a very sensitive and delicate part, unplug the negative cable from battery then unplug all the wires from ECM unscrew the ecm and replace the new one, screw the new ecm plug in all the wires and connect the negative cable that's it your done good luck!!!!
Many DIY'S like your self come unstuck when fitting after market equipment The systems are balanced in the ECM so any power feed that affects the ECM will result in problems. I suggest that you have a long talk with an experienced installer before you start or best advice get the shop that sold you the gear to install it for you.
I believe the front shocks are actually STRUTS you can replace the strutes your self with minimal effort. the vehical will then need to be aligned. my suggestion is to purchase the struts your self then talk to your local trusted shop that does alignments you can usually make a deal with them to have them install the struts for an extra 5 to 10 dollars other wise install your self then take it to the alignment shop
your quite lucky that this has happened this way, the 4.4 has a shared belt, the belt powers the steering and the altenator that charges the battery when the charge rate drops the light comes on, most likely it wil need changing and I would recommend you have it done asap as if and when the belt snaps it cuases a lot of damage I had the 4.4 v8 petrol version on a 2000 plate, this happened to mine and cost me £350 to replace all the things the belt damaged when it snapped. I never got a warning like this so do get it looked at asap. if you are doing it your self you need to remove all the sheilding around the fan at the front to access the belt, also pat attention as to how it comes off draw a daigram if you are doing it as it can be very confusing to put back on.
Step by step:
1. Your problem is in your steering wheel horn assembly.
2. If you have airbags I recommend finding which fuse controls them and remove them (SRS fuse), but before doing so make sure the steering wheel is perfectly straight. Disconnect the battery one or both sides. Wait ten to 15 minutes if you have an airbag to start working on the vehicle.
3. Make sure you wear an anti static wrist band, and or discharge your self on some metal before working with the air bag.
4. There should be screws on the back of the steering wheel to remove the center portion, remove and unplug not to forget where you unplugged what.
5. remove the center nut that holds the steering wheel on, use a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel, unless your he-man and can pull it off your self.
6. remove the horn assembly and replace with all new parts, every single piece of the horn assembly you must replace.
7. Reverse the removal procedure and work backwards.
8. Last, reconnect battery and fuses and if you have an airbag stand back while doing so in case airbag decides to discharge.
Hope this helps! Good luck !
see for that if the vehicle come with electronic sensor system in this case take the vehicle to nearest authorised service station or consult an experienced mechanic or expert
in case if you are doing on your own which is not advisable you may hook in to problem's so better consult a good experience person
if doing on own just take thing's in consideration place a jumper wire with additional battery which will provide energy supply mean while you replace the old battery with new one & then connect the battery terminal to new battery without the loss of energy supply to required system...!
seeing to that you do not grab your self in problem's till then have a safe drive & happy motoring for more FAQ any time just ask for help we will sort out your problem till then siddhanth say's bye ....!!
Some vehicles require very specific drive cycles (called "drive traces"
if you perform them on a road simulator or dyno) to activate certain
self-checks like the catalyst and EVAP monitors.
As a general rule, doing some stop-and-go driving around town at speeds
up to about 30 mph followed by five to seven minutes of steady 55 mph
highway speed driving will usually set most or all of the monitors.
Consequently, if you're checking an OBD II system and discover that one
or more of the monitors have not run, it may be necessary to test drive
the vehicle to set the remaining monitors.
You should talk to a good emission tec, if this is not throwing a code, it is hard to say if that one of the components could be bad. O2,pump,convert, HeO2, every part of the emission system.
With a 1000 miles, and doing what is says above just before the test, and ending driving at the test should be plenty. If it is not, you will have to have each emission part checked, or when the computer is plugged in it might show a code that did not trip dash light.