Question about 1989 Ford Bronco

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Wont start I'v had it for a while and now it wont start. We replaced spark plug wires, relay switch, distributor cap, and had the ignition module checked. It starts if you move the distributor cap but wont stay started. Need help its my only transportation. It will stay running for a while but when u shut it off it wont start. Sometimes it will only run a min.

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  • Anonymous Jan 07, 2009

    i have the same problem n with mine its that my battery wont hold a charge n i just put a brand new alternator in my truck u might want to put a new batery in yours

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    I HAVE A DATSUN 1979 210 THE CAR WONT START IT JUST MAKES A CLICK SOUND,BUT IF I MOVE KEY IN AND OUT OF THE IGNITION SWITCH IT STARTS UNTIL I GET IT IN THE RIGHT PLACE

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If i drive my bronco to work shut it off it wont start sounds like it has a dead battery if i let it sit for an hour it will start back up can you tell me if you know what it is

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • jsomahkawahh
    jsomahkawahh Jan 04, 2013

    i have an 84 cressida, try the ignitor module

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1994 honda civic will not start. New spark plugs and new fuel filter. The car will turn but not start. I have replaced clutch safety switch as well. lots of good gas on the tank. main relay and fuel...


REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR.AND PLUGS WIRES.IF GETTING NO SPARK TO PLUGS.CHECK SEE IF IGNITION COIL GETTING POWER.IF NOT CHECK IGNITION FUSE.IF POWER GOING TO COIL.FAULT EITHER COIL IS OPEN OR FAULT IN THE IGNITION MODULE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR.

Aug 23, 2011 | 1994 Honda Civic

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I have a 1990 mitsubishi might max it wont run smooth unless you keep your foot on the gas and keep the rpms up a little bit and it wont drive cause it stalls everytime you try to move it. ive replaced the...


You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor.
Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.

Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are:
air filter
motor oil
motor oil filter
breather filter
fuel filter(s)
fuel strainer
PCV valve
EGR valve
spark plugs
spark plug wires
ECM or distributor cap & rotor
cabin air filter
transmission oil filter
transmission oil
engine coolant
check all vacuum hoses and lines

Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:

Priority Action Part Type -- Cause
1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch.
11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive.
15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

Aug 17, 2011 | 1993 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

1 Answer

Engine turns but does not start items replaced so


Check the starter solenoid, or igintion switch

Feb 18, 2011 | 1994 Lincoln Continental

2 Answers

My car wont start


a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.

May 20, 2010 | 1994 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

CAR WILL NOT CRANK


I gave you more than you should need

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause.

b) We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive ).If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Remove the starter and have it bench tested to verify.
a) If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck

May 03, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Wont start even if i push her,toyota tercel has no spark


So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Apr 29, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Tercel

2 Answers

I HAVE A 2000 CHRYSLER CONCORDE LXI WITH A 3.2 LITER AND IT WILL TURN OVER IT JUST WONT START, THE LIGHTS AND EVERTHING COME ON BUT IT WONT START. I GOT A HOLD OF SOME BAD GAS SO WE DRAINED THE FUEL ADDED...


If by "bad gas" you mean dirty or wet (water or alcohol), the fuel filter and/or lines may be clogged or holding water...or the injectors could be clogged with dirt.

Hearing the pump run doesn't mean that adequate pressure is reaching the engine...a fuel rail pressure tester will tell you if the pump and relay are doing their jobs properly.

Test for spark to rule out ignition circuits and module...Lay one plug wire near a good ground and have someone turn the key for a couple of seconds...you should see a long spark jump to ground.
If no spark, the ignition module, distributor pickup, and crankshaft position sensor are the prime suspects.

> As a test ONLY, I would back out a plug and spray a short-shot of starter fluid into the cylinder, replace the plug (quickly...starter fluid evaporates pretty fast) and give a crank.
If it sputters, it's definitely in the fuel delivery...and I would start with a fuel filter.


***Don't forget to VOTE for the guys who take an interest in helping!

Apr 27, 2010 | 2000 Chrysler Concorde

2 Answers

My 1999 nissan altima won't start, no crank,not even a click. All lights are ok, stereo, wiper, etc. battery is only months old. I pulled out the starter, have it tested at Advance Auto Parts and it worked...


It is possible that the neutral safety switch needs to be replaced. This is on the transmission where the shifter connects to it. Unfortunately it could also be some of the other problems mentioned too , but as I only have this question locked to me for 30 min, could you possibly give me some more time and I will come back to you asap on how you can test this switch first and go from there.

Thank you for your patience

Aug 29, 2009 | Nissan Altima Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Wont start


Check your rotor, distributor cap, coil wire.did you change the module inside the distributor cap.

Jul 20, 2009 | 1996 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Wont start turns over but no start


1 Inspect Battery Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 5 Inspect Coil - Ignition Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Relay - Fuel Pumpat Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

Jul 02, 2009 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

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