Question about 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Power windows will not work. Changed master controler, no help. There seems to be no power to the 30 amp fuse. Fuse is fine and adjacent power seat fuse has power. Is there another fuse to the power windows?
If you have a sunroof does it work? it gets power from same source.It is a red/black wire feeding the circuit breaker and a tan coming out of breaker. have you checked the maxi fuses under hood?there is a 60amp fuse it is #13 this feeds circuit breaker
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
There are two difference sites,
"The only difference is that I bought the regulator and motor for $90.00 + $10 for shipping at www.monsterautoparts.com. The whole process took me 45 minutes. I can't wait to stop by the dealership that quoted me between $450-$500 to replace, of which $225 was just for the part. "
"I ordered my new regulator from power up auto. http://www.powerupauto.com/ for 40+ dollars. I checked the site today and the price has already gone up to 90$. The price is still not too bad and I got it within a few days.I recommend that you send a email to them to confirm you are ordering the right one for your year vehicle.
It is easy to remove once you figure it out or have instructions...Remember, don’t try to use your window while it’s broke or you will burn up the electric motor. I taped the window in the up position until I got my new regulator.
1. Remove the door panel (3 screws: one in armrest and one near rearview mirror and last one is a hex head located in the door handle well)
2. Pop door panel off easily using a wide flat tip screw driver or something that’s plastic, thin and wide to prevent scratching… start popping it off at the bottom of the door in a corner….there are a bunch of plastic clips holding it on. Don't worry if a couple of them break you can order a few new ones for a couple bucks... No problem.
3. Once you get the panel popped out some, you need to disconnect the power window cable, power mirror cable, and door and lock controls so you can completely remove the panel. (cables have a little clip on the back of them, squeeze it to unlock and remove) (Door and lock metal rods have a plastic retainer, gently turn them and then easily pull out of their respective holes)
4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and unplug connector)
5. Remove the plastic cover (I had a black plastic cover under the door panel and it was attached with some black rubber like glue. The glue is none drying so if you remove it carefully, a little at a time it will stay on the plastic and you can re use it.
6. Where the window comes through the top of the door or ...the part that your arm rests on if you hang your arm out the open window....there are 2 rubber seals that the window comes up between when it’s raised. Remove the inner one (towards the inside of the car) you can pry it up and it will pop out. Be sure to save the 2 sponge looking things that are under each end if your model has them.
7. Take out the 2 clips that hold the window to the regulator. You will have to reach inside the door and pull them out, one on the left and right...no problem.
8. Window removal: Once you have removed the clips holding the window to the regulator you have to gently work the two window “nipples” out of the regulator holes. Once you have it up a little past the regulator window holding piece…turn the window so that the rear of it is up and comes out first….then work it upwards to remove it from the door. It should come out easily, if not take a break because you don’t want to buy glass too.
9. Unplug the power window cable from the window motor (located in the center of the door)
10. Remove screws that hold the regulator and the window motor to the inside of the door (I think there were 4 regulator screws and 3 holding the motor, they are different sizes) they are the only screws left.
11. Push the window motor cable inside the door, then tilt the entire unit from it’s up and down position to a horizontal left-right position. I then patiently fed it through the hole at the bottom right side of the door…under the hole where the speaker used to be.
12. Once out remove 2 screws? (I can’t remember but you will see) to remove the window motor from the regulator. Clean off the surface of the window motor and attach it to the new regulator. If you buy the regulator from http://www.powerupauto.com/Jeep1.html like I did, it comes with basic instruction on how to connect the motor to the regulator.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
On the right side of your glove box, open the passenger door to access compartment #26 30amp
Your motor works but there is a long "worm screw" that has deattached from a bracket. The bracket attaches to the bottom of the window.
here's what I did...
carefully pull off the inside door skin. there are plastic body clips holding it on, three large screws and one small one near the front.
then there are two control arms that attach to your interior door opener handle - one for opening, one for the lock. remove plastic clips that hold them in place then pop out the control arms. Now you can pull the door skin right off.
oh, you also have to unplug your power switch from the armrest.
ok, so you have the panel off right? if you don't, I;ll wait here for a min while you do that.
ok your back?
now you need to tear away the white vapour barrier - its stuck on with black stuff - peel it back and make sure you don't get it on your clothes.
now you should see the inspection ports-with the window half way down you should see the bottom of the window.
now you need to tape the window in the half way up position other wise it will fall down. I used 2 inch wide scotch tape - don't use duct tape cause the glue is hard to come off afterwards. tape the glass to the vertical post at the back and tape along the bottom horizontal edge.
ok - see the bracket at the bottom of the window? take that off.
now unscrew the vertical track
also unscrew the power motor.
all you need to do is get the track out of the inspection port so that you can access the worm screw.
Here's the ingenious part that saves you hundreds!!
I took that bracket and using a chisel, I chiseled off the plastic from the steel (the plastic is the reason it busted in the first place)
I drilled two holes in the steel part where the plastic teeth would have been- make sure it lines up where it used to be on the track - mark where the holes are to go in relation with the track.
tehn you need a couple of cotter pins - yep thats right cotter pins.
The cotter pins wrap around the grooves in the worm screw at the end. Make sure they are tight right into the grooves cause when the screw going back into the track, you don't want there to be any unnecessary friction.
now power the screw back into the track [actually first I sprayed the track, the hose where the screws comes from and everything with WD40.]
now put the bracket back onto the cotter pins which should now be sticking out from the track. Bend them over and cut off the excess.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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