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without seeing the damage directly, it would be difficult to say. however, it could have been a faulty harmonic balancer that failed, causing the bolt to shear off or even simple metal fatigue.
either way, it will be an expensive repair
I would guess that the lurch and the engine light on was telling you that the engine over heated and you may have done damage to the motor.. IF you have blown a hose or radiator or lost a lot of water then the temp gauge sender has no coolant to read so it will read as normal. because it is reading an over heated piece of metal that it is screwed into and not the coolant temperature.. Have a compression test done to determine possible engine damage. Have a pressure test done on the coolant system to find the cause of the loss of coolant. Do a flow test done on the radiator to check for blocked cores. Check operation of cooling fan especially if you have a viscous fan hub.
The rotary control switch on the dash controls the blower motor for the A/C. The A/C will not turn on unless the blower motor is functioning properly. The passenger-side radiator fan will not turn on until the A/C begins running. BUT the driver's side radiator fan should always work. Ergo, check the function of the blower motor (located underneath the dash behind the glove box). Usually when it goes bad, it's because of the blower motor RESISTOR (mounted inside the blower motor housing). When the resistor goes bad, the blower motor shorts out, causing it to fail. The switch rarely ever fails. The radiator fan relays are located next to & on both ends of the radiator. Check them too. In the link, the blower motor RESISTOR is #5. Acura Parts AcuraOEMparts com Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura
Most 98 model Jeeps use an electric fan mounted to the radiator. If yours has a fan blade mounted to the water pump pulley, the problem could be the bearing in the water pump or the bearing in the fan clutch. There-s no way for me to know what it is hitting without being there in person. You may be able to remove the fan blade and leave the pulley bolted to the pump and drive the truck a mile or two.
see this causes and fix it. God bless you Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will
allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump
pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing
plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking.
The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on
cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains,
discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or
engine. Radiator -- Radiators can develop
leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration.
The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place
where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with
plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur
where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the
core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage.
Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can
also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.
Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi.
If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose
coolant. Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits
in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will
usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A
corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow
coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only
occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.
most cooling systems are designed to have a 6 deg difference in temperature from the inlet to the radiator "hot coolant in" to the bottom hose of the system the "engine coolant feed. cooling systems are pressurerized to help the coolant carry the heat away from the hottest parts of the motor.
here are a few things to check check the rubber seal on the bottom of the radiator cap for tears uneven surfaces, ect if damaged replace it. your truck has a coolling fan this is called a clutch fan. these clutches can go bad and cause the air flow through the radiator to be comprimised by the slowing of the fan. you should be able to see if this is happening just by watching the fan to see that it is turning as fast as the motor.
then the 2 most common causes of over heating are a thermistat that is sticking or stuck. these are cheap parts and should be replaced as a matter of routine maintinance. i change mine every year its cheaper than getting a warped head from over heating. this is located on the engine end of the top radiator hose and is located inside the housing that is bolted to the block with 2 bolts. check the back side of the oil filler cap that is located in your valve cover tanish to white collored sludge here will indicate water in the oil and point to a blown head gasket. also if you have any oil in the radiator.
The 4.0L engine is equipped with a reverse rotation (counterclockwise) water pump. The word REVERSE is stamped or imprinted on the cover of the viscous fan drive and on the inner side of t he fan. The letter R is stamped onto the water pump impeller. When replacing water pump, ensure proper pump is installed. Installation of the wrong water pump will cause engine overheating.
NOTE:On models with 4.0 L engine, front grill must be removed to access radiator draincock. Draining cooling system can be accomplished by removing drain plug from side of block as well as by loosening radiator draincock. Drain plug is located on lower left side of engine block.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect electric cooling fan connector. Remove electric cooling fan and electric fan shroud assembly (if equipped). Loosen, but do not remove, 4 water pump pulley-to-water pump hub bolts and 4 viscous fan-to-idler pulley nuts. Remove accessory drive belt. Remove 4 viscous fan to idler pulley nuts, and remove fan and shroud together. Remove 4 water pump pulley bolts and remove pulley. Remove power steering pump and bracket. Disconnect heater hoses and lower radiator hose at water pump. Remove 4 water pump retaining bolts. Remove water pump.
it may be caused by overcharge or a plugged orifice tube it could have a ruptured dryer bag in the receiver, you could have too many bus on the condenser or radiator and the fan clutch may not be working causing the temperature to rise and the pressure to increase.