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The diagram is a little hard to follow, but it looks like on the high fan relay there are 5 circuits like on the hi-low relay. Pin 86 is power for the magnet, 85 is the ground signal from the module. The module grounds the magnet to move the contacts. Pin 30 goes to the fan and pin 87 goes to a 50amp fuse. Pin 87A is a jumper between the two relays. The fan motor gets power from three different sources and is grounded to the car. The other two wires are return signals to the module. Kind of like a three way light switch in a house. On the fan control relay, pins 30 and 85 are hot, pin 87 goes to the fan motor, and pin 86 is grounded by the module. I can send you the diagram in a separate message if you need to see it.
there is actuators that open up the vent doors so you can control where the air goes , Well there is also 1 that controls hot and cold air flow at the heater core, the actuator is almost impossible 2 replace without taking out the dash but you can disconnect it and open it manually. You will have 2 tie it up so it stays open , if you go this route your A/C wont work unless you shut the door or replace the actuator , even doing this manually is pretty tricky because you may have to remove the glove box radio and heater controls just 2 be able 2 feel around back there but the 1 you are looking 4 is closer 2 the floor on passenger side near the radio
If your egine is full with oil and you have no oil pressure its and indication of a bad pump, or your engine is starting to fail. if your oil light is on and your full, its an indication that your sending unit is bad.
wait 10 minutes after you shut the car off - then remove the negative side of the battery - wait 30 minutes then reinstall and run the car 30 minutes. If your cooling fluid is full and other cooling systems are in place and working - you should be fine.
The fan on your cooling system is made to continue to run once the engine is shut down if it is running a little [ or a lot] hot. So don't panic if it runs 5 minutes after you shut the car off.
Look for low coolant and be sure to have heater on high when checking coolant level...
Hotter than 1/2 way is not necessarily a problem, do the fans cycle on and off?
You are most likely slightly low on coolant. I also suggest that you pressure test the system as well as the cap. Leaks allow coolant to escape and your vehicle is fussy about perfect level...
REMEMBER that when you release the pressure on a cooling system, non boiling coolant can now boil! Many people get seriously hurt... This is NOT indicative of a problem, but rather NORMAL physics, just crank it in to your proceedure...
it is not the regulator if it has 40 lbs of pressure try to pinch off the return line and if pressure drops quickly it is either the check valve in the pump or the rubber seal between the pump and the sending unit