Question about 2004 Honda Accord

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Lock nut problem

Got a puncture and located loc nut removal tool from boot e type jaguar its made of a very soft metal and when trying 2 remove nut it sheared away now i cant use the car as i dont have the loc nut tool any more how can i get one strong enough 2 remove loc nuts or is threr any other solution out there

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Sears sells a nut removal for wheel nuts as you turn the socket it bites into the nut to remove it there are different sizes in the kit .

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

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1 Answer

WHERE IS PCM LOCATED


do u mean the powertrain control module? if so it is located on the l/h side under the cabin filter housing. remove wiper arms, windscreen plastic scuttle panel, metal brace bar, caution. the 4 outer bolts can break off easily. and cabin filter housing , the module is held with 2 nuts remove connectors and nuts the module then comes out from inside the car remove footwell liner for access

Feb 14, 2014 | 2002 Jaguar S-Type

1 Answer

I'm Changing the boot on steering rack ,Do the whole steering rack comes down ,or can I just change boot


Just remove the track rod end and lock nut, counting the turns on removal, otherwise you will alter the tracking,
Remove and renew gator and refit track rod end with new locking nut.
It is possible an oil leak from the rack seal has been primary cause of gator failure? have you noticed power steering fluid loss?
If so you require an exchange S/rack.
Good Luck!
Let me know your feedback.
John the Jag..

Dec 14, 2012 | 1996 Jaguar Vanden Plas

1 Answer

Have anyone out there ever change inner tie rods on a1995 honda odyssey?,if so simply explain,THANKS


Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Sep 10, 2012 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

My jag was purchased used and there is no key for the wheel locks. I need help in finding out who manufactured the locks. Dealer does not know.


It will be cheaper to go to a tyre shop where any good outlet has special tools to destructively remove locking wheel nuts without the key. Then just buy a new set of locking wheel nuts to replace them with. Even if you knew who manufactured them you'd need the pattern number and proof of ownership and you'd find that a spare key often costs more than a complete new set of locking nuts.

You can buy so called "universal" locking wheel nut removers yourself quite cheaply on ebay, but they often fail to work and can damage your wheels and then leave the nut far harder to remove using the correct and expensive trade-only tools.

Mar 10, 2011 | Jaguar XJ8 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Removal of front right axle from a jaguar 2002 x-type


Loosen the wheel hub nut.
Remove the front road wheel and tire.
Remove the tie rod end retaining nut.
Using the special tool 204-192 Ball joint Splitter
detach the tie rod end.
Remove the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Loosen the subframe rear mount bolt.
Loosen the subframe front mount bolt.
Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.
using spcial tools 204-269Forcing Screw,205-491-01 adapter nuts,205-491 wheel hub puller
Detach the wheel knuckle.
Remove the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Reposition the lower arm.
Detach the wheel knuckle.
using special tools 307-443 RH Halfshaft splitter ,307-442 RH Halfshaft splitter handle
detach the halfshaft.
Remove the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Remove the halfshaft seal.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
To prevent damage to the transfer box internal seal,
make sure that the link shaft is not retracted further than
200 mm from the transfer box casing.
remove the halfshaft.
Attach special tools to the halfshaft.
Lever the special tools to displace the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the halfshaft.
Use suitable protective covers to protect the barshaft.
Remove the halfshaft snap ring.
Install a new snap ring to the halfshaft.
Install a new halfshaft seal.
Remove the special tool.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the special tool.
Make sure the CV joint splines are located fully.
Do not use excessive force when engaging the CV joint into the link shaft.
Install the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Tighten to 25 Nm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Reposition the lower arm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Install the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Tighten to 83 Nm.
Install the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Tighten the subframe front mount retaining bolt.
Tighten to 142 Nm.
Loosely install the subframe rear mount retaining bolt.
Install the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Tighten to 35 Nm. Tighten to 142 Nm.
Install the tie rod end.
Tighten to 35 Nm.
Loosely install a new wheel hub nut.
Install the front road wheel and tire.
Tighten the wheel hub nut.
Tighten to 330 Nm.
Check the subframe alignment.

May 20, 2010 | 2002 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

How do I replace speakers on a 1994 xj6 ?


Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers

Required Tools:

#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10 small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer

1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits before you attempt any panel work.

2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized tools required.


3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:

It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting everything back together.

a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square” plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the car.

b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and the escutcheon is easily removed.

c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left side by slip-in clips and they release easily.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two additional fasteners.

e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store it on the seats for safekeeping.

4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:

a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.

b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they have never been removed in the past, but they will release.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located in the middle of the door handle.

d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it outwards from the door.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are now removed.

f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed), carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter. Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another more worker friendly location.

5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by releasing the electrical connector.

b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not necessary.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was previously removed in Step 4a.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.

h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker can be removed from the panel.

6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount either type in either model.

a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.

b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount with only two fasteners.

c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers, place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.

d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect the speaker wire connector at the door panel.


7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.

8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is complete.

9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:

This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted woofers.

a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off the grill.

b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet metal mounting screws.

c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector for the speaker wires.

d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old leads to the new speaker terminals.

e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the electrical connector.

f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal screws.

g) Press the speaker grill into place.

h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.

Mar 10, 2010 | 1994 Jaguar XJ6

2 Answers

My locking wheel nut tool appears worn inside and just slips around the locking wheel nut. How can I get a replacement?


If the tool is slipping that means both wheel nut and tool are worn. The best thing you can do is buy or borrow a "gator grip" socket to remove the old locking wheel nuts and replace them with a new set and tool.

You can buy the gator grip socket in the UK these days, my son has just bought one for the same reason.

http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/gatorgrip.html

Nov 02, 2009 | Jaguar S-Type Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How do I install driver side inner tie rod on my 1997 chevy cavalier?No room to work. Do I need to remove whole rack and pinion assembly?


you don't need to remove the whole rack but do need a special tool called inner tie rod tool. can be bought or borrowed form most auto parts stores. first remove wheel. next loosen the jam nut on inner tie rod at the end of outer tie rod. remove cotter pin and nut on outer. use seperator or pickle fork to seperate outer from knuckle. then remove the clamps on boot and remove. then take tie rod tool and find the right size end and turn with 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. it will turn hard at first cause of it being staked on to the threads. when it is off install new part with loc-tite on threads and tighten. when tight crimp inner flanges with either plier or hammer and punch to the rack. install in reverse order. remember to measure distance from clamp on outer side of boot to jam nut so you can get the alignment close until you get to shop for alignment.

May 05, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Is there locking bolt to remove wheel on jaguar X Type 3.0


If you have all nuts off & don't see anything else, I'd bet money you have aluminum or similar rims (wheels) on it. With 2 disimilar metals making contact like they do, it usually causes them to corrode together, almost like they're welded. Try spraying some penetrating oil in by studs, and rotate tire to move it around a bit. In some cases I've had to get a good swing with a big rubber hammer ( to avoid damage to rim) from behind to break them loose, and even had some success with snugging nuts back up, then back them off a turn or 2, then lower vehicle so tires are back on the ground, and rock the car side to side pretty hard. Then jack it back up & try again. If car securely on jack & stands, or even better a hoist, sometimes you get away with a good swift heel to the tire from side to side. Good Luck, keep us posted.

Dec 07, 2008 | 2003 Jaguar X-Type

2 Answers

Missing on acceleration


Remove the air cleaner/intake boot, remove the wipers and upper cowl, remove the crossbeam suport bar (under wiper cowl)
Remove the throttle bosy connectors, remove the bolt on the front lower suport bracket, remove the bolt on the lower side bracket (below intake shock side)
Rthe 8mm nuts on the back where you will see a round black metal bracket, remove the 8 intake 8mm bolts, note they are different sizes, short and long and also they have a rubber washer that sticks to the intake, take care not to loose/drop any of these, especially in the engine.
Life the intake, you dont actually have to remove it completely.
Replace the 2 intake strip gaskets and if it is missing is probably the coil onplug that is bad no the spark plug.
JPTCAT

Jun 23, 2008 | 2001 Jaguar S-Type

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