Bed of vehicle was removed to change fuel pump and replaced. When everything was put back together, we ran across a very screwy issue. Brake lights work when the lights are not engaged, Reverse turns on the brake lights, the emergency flashers cause the flashers to engage, as well making the license plate lights to flash. But here's the really wierd thing, when I turn on the headlights, the lights on the rear just die.
The Fuses are good, the wiring harness is correct.
CHEVY S-10 TAIL LIGHTS PROBLEM RESOLVED...It seems Chevy engineered a ground shorting clip located under the left rear bumper area. It looks like a connector for trailer wiring harness, but in actuallity is a metal shorting clip which ties 5 wires together. They are all the ground wires for the tail lights. Then one single small wire runs to ground completeing the circuit. Problem is that this one wire is not tough enough to be a strain relief for the grounding plug and over time the ground wire wears, leaving intermittent lighting problems. FIX IS TO SPLICE THE GROUND WIRE INTO ONE OF THE FIVE OTHER WIRES AND USE PLASTIC TY WRAP FOR STRAIN RELIEF. This fixes no tail lights, intermittent rear signals, and other significant problems. I just got done making this same repair on a 2000 s-10 and everything works fine. Since it is the strain on the single ground wire connected to the connector that leads to failure, it is best to tie a new ground or clip the ground wire coming out of the plug and resplice it into one of the other five wires. Does not matter which one since electrically it makes no difference; they are all gound wires. BUT only one wire completes the connection and that is the problem. Really good engineering Chevy! The location is under left rear of bed in wiring harness right before the split. The connector is blue or green. Take the cover off to see the metal shorting clip. Also note the ground wire coming out of the plug/connector and runs about 8 inches to frame. If this is not hooked up you will have tail light issues. If you register on Autozone .com you can access wiring schematics for free. BL
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Chevy S10 Tail Light issue
Try checking and or installing a new ground directly to the one of the light sockets...usually when you have undesired operation of lights dimming flashing funny the ground is the culprit. hope this helps.........good luck!
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It sounds like you need to replace the sending unit which is located in the fuel tank and is part of the pump unit. Some you can buy just the sending unit and others it comes as a module which means the pump and sending unit come together. Not sure what yours has. When changing I find it easier to remove the bed that to drop the fuel tank.
This is not a full answer, but a tip on an easier way.to get to the pump. Instead of removing the gas tank. Just pull the bed off the truck! I guarantee that it will be easier. I did this on a 2001 S10 and it took less that an hour to remove the bed.
Remove the spare tire, and the tube that the tool to lower the tire goes through. You will need to unplug your tail lights under the back or the bed on both sides. There is also a grounding screw for the tail lights on each side that needs to be removed. Remove the screws that hold the gas tank filler hose to the side of the bed - right by the filler cap. Remove the tailgate (to make the bed lighter). Follow the frame down the length of the bed and you will find the bolts holding the bed on. There should be 6 or 8 bolts. My S10 had 8 bolts and my son's full size Chevy PU had 6 bolts (go figure?). Then just lift the bed off the truck. We did my S10 with 3 people and it had a camper shell and rack on it. My son's full size truck was lifted off with only 2 people. I would suggest 4 people however - one on each corner to make it easier to lift and control.
Replace the pump as described above and then you can start the engine to make sure everything works before setting the bed back on. NOTE: The fuel pump grounds back with the tail light ground. If the engine doesn't start right away, try grounding the wire back by the tail lights. It works like a charm. This is an especially nice way to do it if the gas tank is full! I spent 18 years as a professional mechanic and this is one of the slickest, least known tricks I have come across. I wish I'd known about it when I was wrenching for a living! Cheers!
Remove the bolts that hold the bed box to the frame, disconnect the rear light wiring harness and the fuel filler pipe. Set up a pair of saw horses or something behind the truck. Then have four guys to lift on all four corners and set the bed on the stand you have ready. The bed is heavy! And there is the fuel pump! Replace with the new and take care to put the wiring harness for the fuel pump back where it was. Replace the bed, bolts and connect the lights. You are ready to go! Takes about two hours if you don't break the welds that hold the nuts for the bed bolts loose. Good luck!
More then likely the fuel pump is shot. Might be the fuel pump relay but from experince it's the fuel pump. And changing the fuel pump isn't that hard on pickups. I have done several on the ground lowering the tank but if that dosn't sound pleasing you can take the bed off the truck. 6-8 bolts for the bed, two wire connectors for the tail lights, two hose clamps for the fuel inlet and vent tubes, and two guys to lift off the bed.
Do you have spark coming from the plugs? if yes, how did you replace the fuel pump, remove the bed or drop the tank? If you removed the bed make sure that you tightened the ground wire on the frame at the rear near the taillight plug. If the ground is not tight or is broken the fuel pump will not work. If you didn't remove the bed, check the relay and fuse up front on the drivers side inner fender fuse box. I'd double check the ground wire at the rear as well just to make sure it's good.
first put the car on jack stands secure the front tires so it does not roll second take the bolts out behind the caliper and once off you will be able to remove the old pads; keep one to use to press the cylinder back in using a "C" clamp so you can put the new ones on also remove a little of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before doing this so you do not damage the check valve and once everything is back together be sure to put brake fluid back in and pump the brakes before driving and if needed for additional information try www.autozone.com to see if your vehicle is listed