For the past several months ive had to stomp ******* the clutch to start the truck. Last time I got her running it took several hits and now it wont start at all. Fluid level is fine, Ive been told that there is a pin somewhere on the linkage off the pedal that pulls a clip allowing the ignition to work? Cant seem to locate that pin or clip though. Any suggestions would be a great help, last ditch effort before I take her to a shop...
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There is a common issue with this year and I have run into it maybe 100 times, The ignition starter switch (located near the bottom top of the steering column) is defective, the switch halves come apart and this causes a no start. Hook a test light up to the fender solenoid, when the key is held in start position the little wire (solenoid signal wire) should light a 12 volt test light, if not you are not getting any power from the ignition starter switch. The switch is very cheap and easy to replace.
The filter, with these engines, is located amidships on the left frame rail. The filter should be changed either every 15,000 mi. (24,000 km), or 15 months, whichever comes first. The filter should also be changed whenever a fuel delivery module is replaced.
CAUTION To prevent siphoning of fuel from the tank when the filter is removed, raise and support the front end of the truck above the level of the tank.
Relieve fuel system pressure. See Section 5. When working in hot weather, work quickly to complete filter replacement before the fuel pressure rebuilds!
Unsnap the filter canister from the retaining clips.
Disconnect the quick-connect couplings and remove the filter.
WARNING Be careful to avoid kinking the fuel lines!
Noting the direction-of-flow arrow on the new filter, connect the fuel lines.
Snap the filter into the clips.
Turn the ignition switch to RUN several times - without starting the engine - and check for leaks.
does it start fine cold and have problems starting after it's been running? gm's have the starter solenoid on the starter. if you have headers you will have problems overheating the solenoid and consequently have starting problems. as for the clutch, it has a switch on it so you can't inadvertantly start it in gear. if that switch is bad, it won't even click. you need a solenoid or starter. just cause it was new, doesn't mean it was good. see if your starter has a warranty and replace it. it should have a heat shield, see if it's there. if not, get one.
Did you notice if the original ignition wire is still hooked to the solenoid or has come loose. A stick could have gotten up in there and caused a problem or the wire may be broken further up the line. Since it does run when by passing the ignition the ignition itself could be at fault if the ignition wire is in fact intact.
Sounds like like you may have air in the hydraulic system.Run some brake fluid through the system by opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder attached to the transmission. Have a helper depress the clutch pedal until it touches the floorboard. Have him tell you so you can close the bleeder.Once the bleeder is closed have your helper push the clutch pedal several times pausing 5 seconds between each push. Keep an eye on the fluid resovoir for the clutch and fill as needed. Do this untill you either remove all the bubbles or the clutch feels good again. It can take a lot of time to move the air down the pipe so be prepared.
For the Crank sensor there is a small metal disc that mounts behind the sensor if that is cracked or dammaged or installed backwards you will get same results as if it wasn't Make sure the timing marks line up on your timing belt. www.kiatechinfo.com