Question about 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon

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Timing out of wack on 86 olds cutlass 307 5.0

Hello i hope you can help. i have a rebuilt 307 5.0 vin Y olds cutlass salon. with a new 1406 600cfm edelbrock and new mallory distributor including plugs and wires. it seems that the timing can't be set correctly. when set with a timing light the car starts perfect when warm. however once cold it won't crank and i have to physically loosen the bolt and advance the timing. then she starts right up. once hot(20 minute ride or better) and i shut it down she won't turn over till she cools down for a few minutes. sometimes up to 15 minutes. I saw you stated in another post that you disconected the 4 wire ECM. was that permantely or just to set the timing?? I'm tired of trying to solve this issue and my mechanic doesn't seem to be able to get it right either. is it possible that the distributor is no good?? the bolt is nice and tight but i was thinking it could be the hold down bracket but that wouldn't make any sense since i can not turn the distributor by hand. this all started happening about 1 month ago when the temps dropped to 30 and under.

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  • alexcalderon Mar 30, 2009

    my 307 had the stock carb on it and i replaced it with an edelbrock 600 after it started to feed to much fuel and wen cold crank right up but once it got warm wen i turn it on it wouldnt i set the distrib cap and tdc (top dead center) on the first piston and nada so on my carb wen its hot and turns on its rev up nasty on park. tuning it down to normal will turn it off or stumble so i took the trigger to open the 2nd mouth off and its like i have a good 2 barrel but its a four barrel i am not getting the right power frm my 4 watsup any ideas on wat to do!



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 880 Answers

SOURCE: i am trying to convert the carb from a quadra jet

You need a matching manifold or an adapter. Most any auto parts house will have one.

Posted on Mar 29, 2010


SOURCE: My 2001 Olds Integre will not start, but later does start.

This may be a problem with the ignition switch. The ignition switch feeds power to many of the different systems- including the starting system and the dash.A low voltage output of the switch will not allow the starter relay to engergize, along with many other odd problems. A way to check this is that when it is acting up, turn the ignition key back and forth very quickly many several times, or tap and the head of the key with a small hammer. These things will normally cause a faulty ign switch to correct itself for the time being.

Posted on Nov 01, 2008

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: Engine stops running after warming up.

you have a failing crankshaft position sensor

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: turn the key and nothing happens,no crank,no sound,no start

It seems that you have a loose wire, bad connector or perhaps the main computer itself that is causing a problem If the shop is not seeing any codes, or codes come and go, likely I'm right...but someone is going to have to actually do some intensive testing to find the real cause. You can likely get another computer from a local scrapyard far cheaper than what the dealer will charge far as wiring, you need a good accurate schematic a good volt/ohmeter and lots of time to trace wiring. When checking connectors test the pin, then probe the wire going into the pin...often the problem is where a wire meets the backside of the pin, either corroding or breaking..This also applies to any modules such as the security system...what you see on the dash does not always tell you that connection to components is good. This is not a "fix, but rather, a direction to go in. (exactly what I"d need to do if I was there)
Right now, everything is suspect including fuel system, till you rule it out!!!

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

  • 4 Answers


when you removed the water pump, did you disturb the timing in anyway ???

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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Hi Too Fast 442!

The factory manual states:

1.on the 5.0L VIN (_F_) put EST into by-pass mode by unplugging "set timing" timing connector. Connector is a Tan/Black wire in the harness near the distributer. Set timing and reconnect "set timing" connector.

2. on the 5.0L VIN (_G&H_)
Unplug 4-wire connector at distributor. Set timing and plug in 4-wire connector.

3. on the 5.0L VIN (_Y_) the tune-up decal states to ground C-3*** diagnostic lead. Set timing then remove ground from C-3 diagnostic lead.

*** The location of the C-3 diagnostic lead seems to be a mystery, but I've been told that jumpering the A & B pins on the OBD connector (under dash) will accomplish the same purpose.

Disconnecting the ECM (4-wire connection at distributor) is generally a universal given for that era 307.

I used to have a shop where trick Olds motors were one of my specialties, and I love 'em. I built high performance 350s, 403s, 425s and 455s. An interesting fact is that ALL Olds V-8s share the same engine mounts, and big block motors are only 1/2 inch wider than small blocks... That means that you can fit any Olds motor where your 307 now resides.

I have tuned and rebuilt carbs on several 442 307s, and if attention to detail is observed, they run great!

Hope this is illuminating, good luck, and let us know if you have other questions or comments.


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